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  #461  
Old November 30th, 2012, 10:27 PM
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Rocky Mountain Door Tops

My Rocky Mountain door tops arrived last week. After inspecting these, I may go with my original door tops that came with the truck. These are very nice but feels not as heavy duty as the military ones. Plus the military windows have more travel which means more air or, at least, I can stick my elbow out while driving.

One corner was damaged in shipping. A few hits with my BFH and it's good to go:
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Everything comes apart for easy painting:
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Goes back just as easy:
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  #462  
Old November 30th, 2012, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
My Rocky Mountain door tops arrived last week. After inspecting these, I may go with my original door tops that came with the truck. These are very nice but feels not as heavy duty as the military ones. Plus the military windows have more travel which means more air or, at least, I can stick my elbow out while driving.

One corner was damaged in shipping. I few hits with my BFH and it's good to go:
Attachment 61907

Everything comes apart for easy painting:
Attachment 61908Attachment 61909

Goes back just as easy:
Attachment 61910Attachment 61911
I have RM Door Tops on my Series, i have no issues with durability.
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  #463  
Old December 1st, 2012, 12:38 AM
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Hm... so you were planning on RM in the front and the original in the back? The RM tops seem nice, but the '83 vintage 'military' tops are just cooler.
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  #464  
Old December 1st, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by grnrvrs View Post
Hm... so you were planning on RM in the front and the original in the back? The RM tops seem nice, but the '83 vintage 'military' tops are just cooler.
I needed new door tops for my Series III anyway. I was going to put the older military ones on the Series but now may reconsider. You are correct, the military ones are cooler.
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  #465  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Roof Rebuild

Next up was the roof. Pulled it out of storage and started breaking it down for repaint.

First is taking out the alpine windows. There are 2 sections to the weatherstripping, just like for the rear corner glass. Pulled the center section out and popped out the glass. Then a couple hours cleaning and sanding the outside and inside with 400 grit:

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Taping up the galvanized rain gutter to keep it looking original. Don't know why Land Rover didn't paint the underside completely:

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Prime and paint:

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With the help of the wifey I was able to put the roof back on. It's not heavy, just bulky:

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The lift on the truck was so high I had to let the air out of the tires and added 200lbs to the back to get it into the garage :

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Then the tedious task of bolting everything together. My kids making things 10x harder:

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  #466  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:42 PM
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Looks like a great family activity. Keep the pictures coming.
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  #467  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Looking great Forrest! I'm slowly working up the nerve to do my own painting and your build is very inspiring.
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  #468  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Looking great Forrest! I'm slowly working up the nerve to do my own painting and your build is very inspiring.
Man Charles if you can build a hybrid-hybrid you can do anything, painting will be the least of your worries. I am watching your build with great interest.
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  #469  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 10:09 PM
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A thought about your cage: I started on mine at the D hoop, because it is the only piece with specific measurements for placement. It was a PiTA to install with the roof on. If I were to do it again, I would install the center and back sections of the headliner, while the roof was off the truck, then install the D, C & B hoops, followed by the roof (with side panels). The A hoop should be last.

Always good to see your progress.
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  #470  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 11:11 PM
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A thought about your cage: I started on mine at the D hoop, because it is the only piece with specific measurements for placement. It was a PiTA to install with the roof on. If I were to do it again, I would install the center and back sections of the headliner, while the roof was off the truck, then install the D, C & B hoops, followed by the roof (with side panels). The A hoop should be last.

Always good to see your progress.
Hey Paul. That's good to know about the D hoop being first to go in. Someone else told me everything was tied to the B hoop and I should do that one first.

I thought about this for a very long time, trying to strategize what the most logical steps would be. Since my tub was just sitting on the frame and not bolted down yet, I thought it was prudent to make sure the tub/bulkhead/door gaps etc was perfectly squared before tightening any bolts. I heard the roof ties everything together so I decided to fit the roof first, then the doors to check the gaps, and then check for squareness before bolting everything down to the chassis. There was no point drilling the tub for the D hoop if it was not squared and fitted correctly on the chassis. I know it would have been a lot easier without the roof, and had my tub been correctly fitted already, I would definitely had gone that route.
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  #471  
Old December 5th, 2012, 07:45 PM
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Lining up the Tub

Using the "string method" to line up the tub before finally bolting it down. I attached the doors just to check the gaps:

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  #472  
Old December 5th, 2012, 11:06 PM
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I'm working on the front end of the truck, look over and find this. The girls are ready for some camping They seriously love playing in my truck:

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  #473  
Old December 5th, 2012, 11:16 PM
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  #474  
Old December 6th, 2012, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
I'm working on the front end of the truck, look over and find this. The girls are ready for some camping They seriously love playing in my truck:

Attachment 62276
Looks about right, you are making great memories for you and the kids. My wife still has fond childhood memories of "helping" her father restore a 63' corvette; and our son wants to help out whenever he can.

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I love the color combo on your truck, really great look!
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  #475  
Old December 6th, 2012, 08:47 AM
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Awesome! Yes I agree they will have great memories from this sort of thing. I had my girls out in the garage last night helping me remove the tub off the 109, and although they were grumbling when they first came out, it ended up being great fun for them.
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  #476  
Old December 13th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Looks about right, you are making great memories for you and the kids. My wife still has fond childhood memories of "helping" her father restore a 63' corvette; and our son wants to help out whenever he can.

Attachment 62277
That's a great pic Brian!
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  #477  
Old December 13th, 2012, 10:58 AM
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I'm working on the front end of the truck, look over and find this. The girls are ready for some camping They seriously love playing in my truck:
Adorable
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  #478  
Old December 19th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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SD Cage Part 2---D HOOP

Now that the tub is properly aligned and all door gaps adjusted as best as I can, it's time to finish the SD cage install.

I start at the rear and install the D hoop first. There are 2 brackets that is bolted to the rear crossmember to support the D hoop, one on each side. The metal tubes go inside the crossmember to prevent the crossmember from deforming when you tighten down the bolts:

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The tricky part is getting the tubes inside the crossmember. I used a thin metal wire to get it inside the crossmember and to hold the tubes in place as I put the bolt through

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This pic shows the bracket that holds up the D hoop through the tub. Do not tighten the bolts yet, you will have to take off the bracket to have enough room to put in the D hoop:

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  #479  
Old December 19th, 2012, 06:42 PM
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SD Cage Part 2--D HOOP

Next I measure and mark off the hole for the D hoop in the tub. My cage came with a schematic to show you where the hole should be located, here is a picture if you don't have one:

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The D hoop will clear the rear access panel in the tub corner but I went ahead and removed it. I do not think I will be able to remove that panel once the D hoop is in place:

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I used a rotary saw to cut the hole. I cut smaller than 47mm and hand filed until it was a snug fit:

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The D hoop have 3 parts, the upper hoop and the 2 bases. The 2 bases are attached to the brackets and run through the tub to attach to the upper hoop:

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Paul Clay was in town and was nice enough to stop by to lend a hand. He has the same cage and have already installed his. With his expertise we were able to complete the install in a few hours. Thanks Paul!

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  #480  
Old December 19th, 2012, 08:50 PM
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SD Cage Part 3--B HOOP

Since the C Hoop "hangs on" to the B and D hoop, I put the B hoop in next. The B hoop has a metal strap that bolts to the T post where the seatbelt loop attaches. There are new attachment points on the B hoop to relocate the seatbelt attachments.

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There are a few pieces used as spacers for the B hoop. This pic shows the ones used to raise the B hoop to the correct height to attach the outer cage that bolts through the roof.

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You will have to drill through the floor boards to bolt down the base of the B hoop. You will have to drill through these also:

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I have not drilled these holes yet. I will attach everything loosely first and will drill after I make sure everything fits correctly. The next pic shows the spacer used between the floorboards and the out rigger bases.

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Almost forgot, there are 2 spacers for the metal strap that bolts to the T posts also.
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