1983 110 Rebuild - Page 23 - Defender Source
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  #441  
Old November 1st, 2012, 10:12 PM
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So now I know why the lights inside the instrument panels are so dim. I accidentally dropped my panel off the work table and broke 2 of the lamp fixtures in the back. If you look closely you can see the fixtures have a blueish domed lens on the inside of the gauges. A little epoxy and I am good to go but I am seriously thinking about switching over to VDO gauges.

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Also the best $10 I ever spent at Home Depot:

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If you ever do trans/tranny/swivel ball/diff oil changes, you know what a PITA it is to get the bottle to line up so you can get the oil in without making a mess. With this you just pump it up, point and fill. No more mess. Also has a pressure relief valve to release the pressure when you are done.
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"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
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  #442  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 03:11 PM
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Nice, never thought about using a sprayer for that

switch to the VDO's you will be happy you did
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  #443  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Nice, never thought about using a sprayer for that

switch to the VDO's you will be happy you did
Yeah it works great. I have three: one for motor oil, one for brake fluid, and one for gear oil.

I am just a little hesitant about the VDOs because I am not sure if I have to change out the senders too. I have to read up more about it. It seems all the info here is for the 3.9 EFI and LT230. I have a 3.5 carb and LT95.
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  #444  
Old November 6th, 2012, 10:14 PM
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Ignition Switch

Anyone ever wondered what the inside of an ignition switch looks like? Mine gave up the ghost this weekend so here it is. To remove the switch you have to drill out the 2 bolts holding it on the steering column. Land Rover assembles them with shear bolts, which means they tighten the bolts until the heads shear off. Why? I have no idea. There is nothing to attach a wrench on. The threads are just regular M8 so new bolts can be used.


There are 2 parts to the switch:

1) The steering lock/key switch. The steering column has a channel cut into it and the lock drops down and engages this channel, locking the steering when the steering wheel is turned

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2) The actual electric switch that starts the truck. This is located behind the switch. Just a simple mechanical contact. It is held on to the rear of the lock by 3 prongs. Just pry out the 3 prongs and the electrical switch falls out. If you have an intermittent starting problem, look here first. My prongs were so loose the contacts were not touching at all and nothing would turn on when I turned the key. I press on the back of the switch and everything works.

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I had backed my truck out of the garage when my switch broke. With no replacement in hand, I had to McGuyver the switch in order to start my truck to move it into the garage. So I drill a hole through both plates of the switch and held everything together with a nut and bolt.

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This is how I start my truck now. The 3 lines tell me where I need to be: acc, run, start Hope this helps anyone trying to figure out how the key/ignition switch/steering lock work.

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  #445  
Old November 7th, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX
To remove the switch you have to drill out the 2 bolts holding it on the steering column. Land Rover assembles them with shear bolts, which means they tighten the bolts until the heads shear off. Why? I have no idea.
Anti-theft. That ignition module locks the steering wheel. The truck is already super simple to start from a theft perspective, but your wheel will at least be locked. But then again basically all Defender keys are basically the same pattern, so stealing another friend's defender is fairly easy with any other defender key.

You can also just replace the switch with the module still in place on the steering column by removing the two screws that secure the switch. I think a new switch is $15-30 but I like your solution if in a real pinch!
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  #446  
Old November 7th, 2012, 08:17 AM
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Anti-theft? Pointless. Why are Defenders the most stolen vehicle in the UK? Because, like you said, any key will work

My switch failed in 2 ways. Both the lock and the electrical switch broke. FML.
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  #447  
Old November 7th, 2012, 08:47 AM
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I am having the same issue on my 1983 110 does anyone have the part number for the new module.


Thanks

------ Follow up post added November 7th, 2012 09:48 AM ------

Or part number for a new switch.
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  #448  
Old November 9th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usadventureracing View Post
I am having the same issue on my 1983 110 does anyone have the part number for the new module.


Thanks

------ Follow up post added November 7th, 2012 09:48 AM ------

Or part number for a new switch.
I just picked up a new one from my pusher/drug dealer SafariHP yesterday.

Ignition switch
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  #449  
Old November 13th, 2012, 12:04 AM
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I bought a new-take-off windshield since mine had a few cracks in it. Unfortunately it was not the right color so I had to remove the glass from the frame to prep it for paint. What I thought was going to be a very difficult job ended up taking me all of 30 seconds to do.

I picked up some $10 suctioncup dent puller from Northern Tools to hold the glass. Didn't really need them. Maybe I will later when I put the glass back in.

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I start at one of the corner and peel back the seal by hand. This is looking at the glass as if you were sitting inside the truck. Gently push on the glass until the seal clears the frame.

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Just work yourself around the frame and the glass just pops right out. There was no glue to cut or break. The seal saved with no tears.

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  #450  
Old November 13th, 2012, 12:56 AM
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Nice work. Looks pretty straight forward
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  #451  
Old November 13th, 2012, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Also the best $10 I ever spent at Home Depot:

Attachment 60175

If you ever do trans/tranny/swivel ball/diff oil changes, you know what a PITA it is to get the bottle to line up so you can get the oil in without making a mess. With this you just pump it up, point and fill. No more mess. Also has a pressure relief valve to release the pressure when you are done.
I borrowed your brilliant idea for this. Thanks!
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  #452  
Old November 13th, 2012, 08:00 AM
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The glass had a few cracks in it or the frame?
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Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
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  #453  
Old November 13th, 2012, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
The glass had a few cracks in it or the frame?
Sorry I should have been more clear. The glass from my original windshield had a few stone chips in it. I priced out a replacement glass and after shipping cost, getting a NTO windshield complete with glass and seal from SafariHP was not much more.
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  #454  
Old November 13th, 2012, 09:53 AM
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Nice job!
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  #455  
Old November 13th, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Sorry I should have been more clear. The glass from my original windshield had a few stone chips in it. I priced out a replacement glass and after shipping cost, getting a NTO windshield complete with glass and seal from SafariHP was not much more.
Just for future reference since im on my 3rd one now I think. Its flat glass so all you have to do is take it over to an auto glass shop and they will cut it on the spot (they love it since its flat). Its all rubber trim, no glue and no metal trim, easy peasy. Think the most its been is 150 and thats cutting the shape and install.
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Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
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  #456  
Old November 13th, 2012, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Just for future reference since im on my 3rd one now I think. Its flat glass so all you have to do is take it over to an auto glass shop and they will cut it on the spot (they love it since its flat). Its all rubber trim, no glue and no metal trim, easy peasy. Think the most its been is 150 and thats cutting the shape and install.
Unless you have heated glass...
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  #457  
Old November 13th, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Just for future reference since im on my 3rd one now I think. Its flat glass so all you have to do is take it over to an auto glass shop and they will cut it on the spot (they love it since its flat). Its all rubber trim, no glue and no metal trim, easy peasy. Think the most its been is 150 and thats cutting the shape and install.
Thanks but I got the windshield with glass for $160. My old frame was drilled for the snorkel and needed a repaint anyways. It made more sense to buy new.
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  #458  
Old November 30th, 2012, 10:13 AM
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Some updates:

Rebuilding the old rusted out light buckets. At the suggestion of Stephen, I went with the open rear light fixture for easier access later:

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Got the rear panels/windshield/middle door tops/clamshell primed and painted:
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Since I am never going to sell this truck, I got my wife to personalize a message on the bulkhead, in an area only we know about and no one will ever see, before putting the windshield back on:

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"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
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  #459  
Old November 30th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Your rebuild is motivating me as I am currently doing my own.

Love the message on your bulkhead! What a great idea.

Your truck is RHD, correct? Do you need a replacement for your ignition switch/steering lock? I have the old one off my truck which I can send you gratis.
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  #460  
Old November 30th, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Your rebuild is motivating me as I am currently doing my own.
I have been following your rebuild too. Your explanation about different primers/paint was so technical it felt like I was back in my engineering classes at UF!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Love the message on your bulkhead! What a great idea
When I asked her to write something on the bulkhead I thought she was going to write something more profound hahaha .

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Your truck is RHD, correct? Do you need a replacement for your ignition key/steering lock? I have the old one off my truck which I can send you gratis.
Thanks but I already bought a new replacement.
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