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  #421  
Old October 25th, 2012, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
The fronts are super nice. How can you paint them if you don't take them apart?

I like the raw look but obviously it would look odd if the second row didn't match.
Barry they do come apart. See here
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  #422  
Old October 26th, 2012, 06:37 AM
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Really enjoying your thread especially since I'm working on my own build up right now - can't see anything wrong with the SS screws for cappings. In fact you may have started a trend there.
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  #423  
Old October 26th, 2012, 08:21 AM
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.....can't see anything wrong with the SS screws for cappings.....
Me neither. I use nylocks on the backside. So far I have had to remove/refit a few panels and this has made it so much easier.
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  #424  
Old October 26th, 2012, 11:21 AM
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There are some split middle doors for sale on ebay.co.uk
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  #425  
Old October 26th, 2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Me neither. I use nylocks on the backside. So far I have had to remove/refit a few panels and this has made it so much easier.
Forrest, I will say is that stainless steel and aluminium are highly galvanicly active so I would not be suprised if you get corrosion in the holes which will bubble the paint and/or make them hard to remove. The best example of this is where the plate on the bock door goes on NAS trucks is screwed into the tub. Even the cleanest D90s seem to have corrosion under that plate where the screws go in. Since you are in florida, it is probably no big deal, but I thought I would point it out especially for those who copy your idea and live in less friendly enviroments.
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  #426  
Old October 26th, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Forrest, I will say is that stainless steel and aluminium are highly galvanicly active so I would not be suprised if you get corrosion in the holes which will bubble the paint and/or make them hard to remove. The best example of this is where the plate on the bock door goes on NAS trucks is screwed into the tub. Even the cleanest D90s seem to have corrosion under that plate where the screws go in. Since you are in florida, it is probably no big deal, but I thought I would point it out especially for those who copy your idea and live in less friendly enviroments.
Thanks Ron. I thought given the bolt materials we have to chose from, SS was the lowest galvanic reaction with aluminum we can get. Isn't that why everyone uses SS in their Rovers? I know this has been discussed to death, maybe I misread. At any rate I can just unscrew them at any time and start over.
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  #427  
Old October 26th, 2012, 12:00 PM
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It has been beaten to death, I agree.

I belive SS is more galvanicly active than regular steel, but someone will let me know.

In any event, you should be fine in Florida, but in the northeast, I would stick to rivets (which are aluminium).
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  #428  
Old October 26th, 2012, 12:11 PM
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I saw a clip from one of those home shows where they were installing a cable rail system. Everywhere the stainless cable or hardware touched the aluminum posts they used rubber isolators or Teflon washers to prevent corrosion.
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  #429  
Old October 26th, 2012, 12:34 PM
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Thanks guys. I did use nylon washer to buffer between the 2 metals. I guess I can always go with these: Aluminum Metric bolts.
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  #430  
Old October 26th, 2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Thanks guys. I did use nylon washer to buffer between the 2 metals. I guess I can always go with these: Aluminum Metric bolts.
Are they threaded screws with nuts or machine screws?

If the former, it should be fine. If the latter, they will cut through where you screw them in and make contact between the metals.
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  #431  
Old October 26th, 2012, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Are they threaded screws with nuts or machine screws?

If the former, it should be fine. If the latter, they will cut through where you screw them in and make contact between the metals.
Threaded screws with nuts. Nylon washers on each side.
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  #432  
Old October 26th, 2012, 01:56 PM
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Threaded screws with nuts. Nylon washers on each side.
That should be fine.
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  #433  
Old October 27th, 2012, 09:40 AM
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  #434  
Old October 27th, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Ron is correct.

http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic...sion_chart.htm

On my build I am using stainless where steel bolts to steel and where steel bolts to aluminum I am using standard zinc coated bolts.
If you isolate them properly the stainless bolts should not react, I just did not want to deal with the isolation layer and in my mind there was the possibility that the inside of the hole where the bolts passes through may not be properly isolated and cause issues.

I really like the bolts in the link you posted, had I know about them I may have used them in a few different applications where strength was not an issue.
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  #435  
Old October 27th, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Haha awesome. That is why I post here. Thanks for the correction. So for those planning to do the same, plan accordingly. Me, I am leaving them in. I think with epoxy primer, paint, and 2 nylon washer should be enough protection. I am not going to get anal retentive and bulletproof my truck and wrap it in plastic. It is a Land Rover, meant to be used.
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  #436  
Old October 28th, 2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
There are some split middle doors for sale on ebay.co.uk
Thanks William. I rebuilt mine so not looking for any. My doortops are supposedly the military aluminum ones. The glass tracks are rubber and not the felt kind. Not really sure about that fact but that's what I was told anyway.
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  #437  
Old October 28th, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Thanks William. I rebuilt mine so not looking for any. My doortops are supposedly the military aluminum ones. The glass tracks are rubber and not the felt kind. Not really sure about that fact but that's what I was told anyway.

Yep 83 110's had the alum door tops. Also refered to as Mil Spec by some. Way better than the later steel ones.
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  #438  
Old October 30th, 2012, 05:37 PM
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Holy crap! This is amazing...i'm absolutely blown away by the effort you've gone to for this 110! Labour of love for sure! I'm about to embark on a similar project myself...Yikes.

But thanks for this thread...definitely gives me some motivation.
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  #439  
Old October 30th, 2012, 07:15 PM
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I too think this is amazing. Thanks for all the work documenting the process. Very helpful and loaded with great photos. This will come in handy for many of us.

Much appreciated, keep up the great work.
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  #440  
Old October 31st, 2012, 04:42 PM
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Cool, glad you guys enjoy it. Will be posting more pics soon. Just picked up $200 worth of paint supplies in preparation to paint the upper half of truck.

Doug, thanks for the confirmation on the doors.
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