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  #21  
Old September 26th, 2009, 10:29 PM
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Ok so I've been busy the last few days and finally got the radiator off. Very surprised to see it hanging on with just 4 posts. The seatbox was a nightmare. Couldn't get the hand brake cable out. Had to disconnect it from the transmission instead. That took me 4 hours. And the gas tank dropped a lot easier then I anticipated.
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  #22  
Old September 26th, 2009, 10:53 PM
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been there...one bolt at a time...
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  #23  
Old September 27th, 2009, 06:02 PM
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Hey George,

Yeah, one bolt at a time. I hear ya. Thank God they're just bolts and not some fancy plastic snap-lock stuff you find in newer cars. I always end up destroying them.

Just got to the cross member today. Don't know how they put it on put I literally had to knock it out of the frame with a sledgehammer. It was super tight. It's going to be fun putting it back on the new frame. Don't know why it was so tight. Next was the exhaust system. Removing it from underneath the frame was like chinese puzzle. Played with it for half an hour, just couldn't clear the rear axle. Had to disconnect into 2 parts to remove it.
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  #24  
Old September 27th, 2009, 08:22 PM
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Hey Mudsux,
If that chassis is salvageable, I would love it for a project I am starting. I would even be willing to try to find/buy isleofbones a crossmember since he spoke first. Just seems a shame to cut up a salvageable chassis just for a crossmember.

You can email me at marc.ingham(at)duke.edu if you want to discuss.
Thanks,
Marc
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  #25  
Old September 27th, 2009, 10:00 PM
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Hey Marc,

You are more than welcome to have the whole thing. I just want to get it out of may garage when I am done. Problem is you are 3rd in line. Good news is Isleofbones is out but Stlnoble said he would take it. If he doesn't want it, it's yours. I have this funny feeling I will end up cutting it because no one wants to pay for shipping.
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  #26  
Old September 27th, 2009, 10:25 PM
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Shipping

I will certainly pay for shipping (or drive down and get it). I could probably talk Stephen into helping me with shipping arrangements on your end.

Is it salvageable? I would not be opposed to some patching, but I would be stripping and galvanizing it, so I would want it to be realtively solid.

Let me know if it makes it to my place in the que.
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  #27  
Old September 27th, 2009, 10:47 PM
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Hey Marc,

I think it certainly is salvageable. The rear crossmember was professionally replaced so it is in very good condition there. The rear tub support is rusted out but you can get a galvanized one from Marsland for just over $100. I am for my new frame. You will have to patch the right rear, right in front of the rear trailing arm. There are some surface rust on the frame but it's hard to tell. I think it was either undercoated or waxoyled. You can peel some of the layers off. Overall I think the chassis is in pretty solid shape. The weakest part is the area right in front of the trailing arm mount. Just look at my pics and if you want any close ups just let me know. I have nothing to hide, I'm not trying to sell anything. Be happy to help out a fellow Land Rover lover.
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  #28  
Old September 28th, 2009, 06:48 AM
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Okay, well I am in if Isleofbones does not want it.

Just email me at the addy above and let me know.

Thanks,
Marc
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  #29  
Old September 28th, 2009, 02:32 PM
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Mudsux,
Don't trash that bulkhead, get this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEF...d=p3286.c0.m14
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  #30  
Old September 28th, 2009, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcingham
Mudsux,
Don't trash that bulkhead, get this:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DEF...d=p3286.c0.m14
Yeah I saw that but I thought it was just a "skin" over. I am not sure it will give it any structural support. Not really sure what I am going to do with that bulkhead. It is in really good shape besides the top. I am in the middle of ordering the footwells from YRM. I am hoping Trevor at Rovahfarm can get me a set though.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase
Ron is right...I bought my footwell repair solution from
http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/
shipping was not cheap but the total cost was worth it...
George
Hey George,

How much did it cost you for shipping? Thanks
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  #31  
Old September 28th, 2009, 02:54 PM
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Mudsux,

Sell the bulkhead to me. I have a couple trashed series bulkheads I could cut the top off to fix that one. If you stick it on a grayhound bus, it should be about $100 to get it to me.

Ron
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  #32  
Old September 29th, 2009, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Mudsux, Sell the bulkhead to me. I have a couple trashed series bulkheads I could cut the top off to fix that one. If you stick it on a grayhound bus, it should be about $100 to get it to me. Ron
Hey Ron,

That's an interesting idea. I will hold on to it until I am done with the rebuild in case I need anything. But after that, you're first on the list.
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  #33  
Old September 29th, 2009, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX
Hey Ron,

That's an interesting idea. I will hold on to it until I am done with the rebuild in case I need anything. But after that, you're first on the list.
I am in no rush.
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  #34  
Old September 30th, 2009, 09:50 PM
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George Kase
1983 110 200Tdi CSW LHD
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yrm pricing

I think both footwell repair panels were around $130 with shipping...approx...
George
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  #35  
Old October 1st, 2009, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase
I think both footwell repair panels were around $130 with shipping...approx...
George
Your patch looks so nice on your bulkhead. Were the panels difficult to get on? Was it a direct fit or did you have to cut? And how did you attach them? bolted or welded? Thanks.
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  #36  
Old October 5th, 2009, 09:33 PM
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OME Suspension

Just received a package after that AB sale last week. Complete Old Man Emu kit. Did a lot of research on those springs along with too much info from all over the net. Finally decided and went with 751 springs and N115 shocks for the front because I have a winch bumper with winch and spare on the bonnet. Hopefully the 751s will carry that load well. Chose 755 springs and N44 shocks for the rears. Also got the steel brake hoses. According to Eric at AB, I didn't need to get extended ones for the 2 inch lift the springs will give me. I don't know, they look pretty short. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning!
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  #37  
Old October 5th, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Are those 110 rear springs? They look like D90 springs. D110 are larger diameter.
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  #38  
Old October 5th, 2009, 11:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Are those 110 rear springs? They look like D90 springs. D110 are larger diameter.
They should be. They are about 1 inch bigger in diameter. I really hope these OMEs live up to the hype. Spent a fortune on them. I have always wanted a set of OME for my FJ40.
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  #39  
Old October 6th, 2009, 07:09 AM
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the install on the foot panels was pretty straightforward as the footwell assemblies come in three parts...the two side walls and the bottom floor section are seperate. I wrestled for quite some time with how to fix this area. After much research and consultation I decided to not use traditional welding but to use contemporary urethane panel adhesive. the metal in that area is relatively thin steel and if you weld you could begin the rusting process again or warp the metal...anyway, I opted for cutting away all the rot, cleaning up the area and permanently "gluing" the patches in place. The claims are that this kind of bonding is many times stronger than welding...and since many cars and trucks are entirely built this way these days...I gave it a try...we'll see. On the couple of areas on the chassis I hired a professional welder to come out and do it since I don't trust my welding skills for anything important...
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  #40  
Old October 6th, 2009, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gkase
t.... the footwell assemblies come in three parts...the two side walls and the bottom floor section are seperate. ...
Your footwells came in 3 parts? The YRM website says 2, the floor and the outer side wall. I only ask because I am contemplating making my own footwells. My bending brake should arrive today. It looks pretty straightforward, in terms of the angle and geometry, for the floor and OUTSIDE wall. The inner wall is too complicated for me if I have to fabricate it myself. I started that discussion in a different thread so I will leave it there.

Anyway, I was thinking about using a few bolts in strategic places and gluing the rest in. Good to know someone else is doing the same thing.
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