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  #341  
Old April 4th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Thanks! Let me send you mine...
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  #342  
Old April 4th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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Thanks! Let me send you mine...
Only if it's in better shape than mine
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  #343  
Old April 8th, 2012, 08:30 PM
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I am soooo over painting. This is round 2 of epoxy primer and I am not even to the main body of the truck. Painting every little part off the truck is so time consuming! Next time I do this I'm leaving everything on the truck!

By the way, the green masking tape is supposed to be better than the blue, who knew?
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  #344  
Old April 8th, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Here I am putting the door skin back on the rebuilt frame. Used a MAPP torch to "re-anneal" the aluminum so it doesn't crack when I rebend it back over the frame.
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  #345  
Old April 11th, 2012, 11:08 AM
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love the primer job...looks like it's going to be bulletproof!
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  #346  
Old April 12th, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
love the primer job...looks like it's going to be bulletproof!
Thanks for all your advice about prep and paint Ed. It was all very confusing at first but your explanation really helped. I don't see how anyone can't paint their truck in a few days. It is taking me forever just to lay down the epoxy primer.
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  #347  
Old April 12th, 2012, 11:44 AM
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this picture is a perfect example of why we get rust and galvanic bubbles in doors. Absolutely nothing between the alum skin and steel frame. Self etching primer and then epoxy will go a long way-shame Rover never went to the trouble.
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  #348  
Old April 13th, 2012, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
this picture is a perfect example of why we get rust and galvanic bubbles in doors. Absolutely nothing between the alum skin and steel frame. Self etching primer and then epoxy will go a long way-shame Rover never went to the trouble.

Yeah I made sure I sprayed the inside of the skin with epoxy primer before putting it back on. I was going to paint with the final color first before putting it back on but I will end up cracking the paint, bending it around the frame, if I did it that way.
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  #349  
Old April 13th, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Yeah I made sure I sprayed the inside of the skin with epoxy primer before putting it back on. I was going to paint with the final color first before putting it back on but I will end up cracking the paint, bending it around the frame, if I did it that way.
I may be getting threads mixed, but are you welding or using an adhesive to marry door skin and frame?
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  #350  
Old April 13th, 2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by texrover View Post
I may be getting threads mixed, but are you welding or using an adhesive to marry door skin and frame?

Right now it is just bent over the frame. I was contemplating which will make it easer to replace later. Originally it was just glued. I can't weld aluminum, well I can't weld period
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  #351  
Old April 13th, 2012, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Right now it is just bent over the frame. I was contemplating which will make it easer to replace later. Originally it was just glued. I can't weld aluminum, well I can't weld period

Well you're going to lead me; I'm assuming I can at least manage glue...

But to that point, assume the adhesive requires you to go back and remove the epoxy/primer from both surfaces?
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  #352  
Old April 13th, 2012, 05:20 PM
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.....assume the adhesive requires you to go back and remove the epoxy/primer from both surfaces?

Damn the epoxy primer, I'm just going to glue them and see what happens. Land Rover made it last almost 30 years like that and if it falls off I'm just going to get new skin for it.
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  #353  
Old April 14th, 2012, 11:59 AM
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So the mapp torch heats the skin and then you bend it while hot to prevent cracking?
I'm giving a couple of doors a time-out for cracking as I removed the skin (yes, being very slow and careful)
Great job by the way!
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  #354  
Old April 14th, 2012, 02:24 PM
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So the mapp torch heats the skin and then you bend it while hot to prevent cracking?
I'm giving a couple of doors a time-out for cracking as I removed the skin (yes, being very slow and careful)
Great job by the way!
No I just heated all around and let it cool before re-bending it. The aluminum goes through a "work hardening or cold working" process when it is bent. I am no expert but I do remember this analogy from my thermodynamics class:

Take a paper clip and repeatedly bend it at the same place. After a few bends the paperclip will break. The bending process changes the crystalization of the alloy, it gets harder and harder with each bend, and eventually gets brittle and break. By heating the alloy, you are "re-annealing" the alloy and relieving internal stress. How hot do you heat it? I read somewhere just enough to boil water off but I am not sure. I just guesstimate and it was fine. Good luck
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  #355  
Old April 15th, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Thanks!
I'll give that a try!
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  #356  
Old April 15th, 2012, 01:01 PM
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I don't have any experience with this myself, but I saw a video where the guy blackened the piece with carbon from an oxy-acetaline torch, then heated it up until the carbon burnt off and that was the indicator it was the right heat and annealed.
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  #357  
Old April 15th, 2012, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin
I don't have any experience with this myself, but I saw a video where the guy blackened the piece with carbon from an oxy-acetaline torch, then heated it up until the carbon burnt off and that was the indicator it was the right heat and annealed.
2x. Search YouTube for a guy working a HUGE dent out of the left rear quarter on a 427 Shelby Cobra. The clip is about 9 minute long and a much watch for working on aluminum. It is work of art.
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  #358  
Old May 6th, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Finally got a weekend to myself and started painting. After all the fear and worrying, spraying the paint was not really that difficult. It really gave me a sense of accomplishment, seeing it all come together with one unified color instead of the Frankenstein five that was on there before. Now I can honestly say I did everything myself with this restoration (I was going to have someone else paint it). Next is the actual truck and tub. Also reassembling the bonnet using 5mm SS socket head screws instead of rivets. By the way, the hinges were a bitch to paint. I am going to kick myself later for not using new hinges:
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  #359  
Old May 6th, 2012, 04:20 PM
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  #360  
Old May 6th, 2012, 08:49 PM
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Nice paint job.
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