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  #281  
Old August 10th, 2010, 08:27 AM
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Ron,

Did the bulkhead arrive in 1 piece?
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"It is the soldier, who salutes the flag, who serves beneath the flag, and whose coffin is draped by the flag that allows the protester to burn the flag"
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  #282  
Old August 10th, 2010, 12:30 PM
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Yup, thanks again. I thought I PMed you that it came in.

Best,

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  #283  
Old August 11th, 2010, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Yup, thanks again. I thought I PMed you that it came in.

Best,

Ron
Yeah you did, I didn't check. I am interested to see how you're gonna fix that. It's in really good shape, except of course the crushed top part.
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  #284  
Old August 11th, 2010, 10:49 PM
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So things I learned this week: Listen to Jim C and Britpart really IS cheap.

I started preparing my doors for paint and was trying to plan ahead with refitting them with stainless hardware. I searched and found a thread by Jim C about using 5/16 SS bolts and nuts to make it easier to find parts later. I decided to use allen head sockets because I was tired of stripping the philips head. I also decided it was wiser to make my own measurements and not listen to what Jim said in his post. Well here's proof why I should have listened to a pro:

1. For some reason, the allen head socket was too wide and would not sit in the hinges. A few turns on my lathe and we are good.

2. I tried to pry out the square nuts on the retainers and they snapped like icicles. It was really weird. I barely put any pressure on it. Anyone know where I can get quality ones?

3. The last 2 pictures is for newbies like me who do not know how to properly measure fasteners. I made the mistake of measuring a countersunk bolt like a regular bolt. The bolts are not long enough and I cannot use them. Now I'm out twenty-something bucks and like an hour of lathe work. Idiot!
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  #285  
Old August 12th, 2010, 12:13 AM
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Ha ha - Some things you only really get from trial and error!
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  #286  
Old August 12th, 2010, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
Ha ha - Some things you only really get from trial and error!
And I distinctly remember thinking to myself:

"Why did Jim use such long bolts? It's gonna stick out too far. I better measure this myself. Maybe Jim's door is newer and different."

Yeah, right. Like Land Rover is going to make Jim's door any different than the millions they've made in the last twenty-something years. I'm such a tool!

So anyone know where I can find "quality" nut retainers for the door pillars?
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  #287  
Old September 3rd, 2010, 02:41 PM
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Forrest, what did you use to paint / coat the fender wells?
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  #288  
Old September 3rd, 2010, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
And I distinctly remember thinking to myself:

"Why did Jim use such long bolts? It's gonna stick out too far. I better measure this myself. Maybe Jim's door is newer and different."

Yeah, right. Like Land Rover is going to make Jim's door any different than the millions they've made in the last twenty-something years. I'm such a tool!

So anyone know where I can find "quality" nut retainers for the door pillars?
I think the Nut Spiralok about halfway down the page is what you need http://www.rovahfarm.com/Defenderscrewsnutsbolts.htmNut Spiralok Ref: 302532 / Price $0.58 Application: Series (all) superceded from 79246

I purchased the bolts and square nuts from McMaster in bulk. I might even have an extra set. I don't have the j clips or whatever those things are-I just reused mine.
Nut Spiralok Ref: 302532 / Price $0.58 Application: Series (all) superceded from 79246
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  #289  
Old September 3rd, 2010, 05:57 PM
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If you are buying SS 5/16th hardware for your door hinges drop me a PM and I'll send you as many square nuts (94785A419) as you need. I had to buy a box of 25 or something too
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  #290  
Old September 4th, 2010, 07:51 AM
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Cabell- I painted the inside with POR15 for a smooth finish and the outside with Rustoleum bedliner for a textured finish.

Charles- thanks for the offer but I have some SS 5/16th square nuts already. Just can't find the nut retainers that won't snap when I pull the old square nut out.

Alexandra- isn't that spiralok for the floor?
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  #291  
Old October 16th, 2010, 07:43 PM
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Next up is the door channel. I got the replacement piece from Atlantic British and they are the correct profile for the earlier 110 doors. I was able to peel back the door skin with a scraper to get to the bottom channel. Took me awhile to get at it because I was trying not to damage the door skin. After getting the bottom piece off, I gave up and took the whole skin off. This will make welding easier. Also traced out the door frame for reference later when I weld the new channel in.

The 5th picture shows the reinforcement tube used for the door hinges. Not sure how I'm going to work around that yet.
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  #292  
Old October 16th, 2010, 09:34 PM
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On my series truck, I cut the reinforcing plate out, ground down the welds on the tubes, and drilled holes in the new channel and welded the old tubes in.

Ron
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  #293  
Old November 16th, 2010, 05:18 PM
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More progress today. I REALLY do not like rebuilding doors.
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  #294  
Old November 16th, 2010, 05:34 PM
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Looking good. Keep it up.
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  #295  
Old November 16th, 2010, 06:04 PM
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Yup, looking good. Slow but steady wins the race
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  #296  
Old November 17th, 2010, 10:58 AM
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Yup, looking good. Slow but steady wins the race
Slow is an understatement! I have been putting this off for weeks but it's time to step up or just give in and buy a new one. It's not the cutting that I am worried about, it's the welding. I spent weeks planning how to cut out the rusted channels in order to give me enough material to weld on without burning a hole through the frame. I think an overlapping joint would be much stronger than a butt joint, correct?
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  #297  
Old November 17th, 2010, 11:05 AM
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Not necessarily stronger due to the box shape, but easier to weld. You could tack weld a backing plate inside first. But since it all gets covered you could also reinforce the inner edge on the outside even.

If the welding really gets you stumped, if you can tack weld it in shape you can probably get a pro to finish up the welding cheaply. It's all the prep and setting up time that will make it expensive.
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  #298  
Old November 17th, 2010, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Not necessarily stronger due to the box shape, but easier to weld. You could tack weld a backing plate inside first. But since it all gets covered you could also reinforce the inner edge on the outside even.

If the welding really gets you stumped, if you can tack weld it in shape you can probably get a pro to finish up the welding cheaply. It's all the prep and setting up time that will make it expensive.
Charles is too modest. He and I re-built a pair of 2nd row doors that needed more help than yours. We did them skin on. He's very good with a mig even mine.
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  #299  
Old November 25th, 2010, 06:56 PM
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I hope you marked the orientation before separating them.
How big a deal is it if you didn't mark the drive-shafts before they were taken out?
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  #300  
Old December 29th, 2010, 09:24 PM
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Man I hate welding. At least it will be covered by the door skin and inner panel. Also made good use of that spot welder I bought to build my AK.
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