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  #41  
Old May 25th, 2016, 08:57 AM
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Will
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Alright, here is my big thread update..........I did a horrible job updating as the build happened, but I will post what I have.


After several conversations with Brian K. he pointed me in the direction of Ron Meyers with Peerless Overland. At the time, Brian was too busy to take on another project but was more than willing to hook me up with some good people.


Ron was freaking awesome, he did everything he said he was going to do and then some. He kept me in the loop the entire time, honored everything he said he was going to do and did a damn good job. It's easy to say that my expectations were easily exceeded.


After he got the truck we came up with a list of stuff that needed to be done and altered the scope of the original project some. Some things just made sense and some things were a necessity because they were screwed up so bad we either had to do them over (paint) or try and fix them.


Project Included:


Strip down entire truck
Sandblast and repaint the chassis
Re-paint the entire truck
Bed Liner in the bed, seat box, floor pans, engine bay and underside of the hood
Re-galvanize everything
Re-paint the interior
New Upholstery, headliner and door cards
All new electrical
New shocks, fuel tank, exhaust, custom drive shafts, tunnel cover, etc.
LT77 and LT230 Conversion
Power Steering Conversion
200TDI Installation
Tons of powder coated parts and the list likely goes on.......




Initial thoughts after my epic 20 mile drive (ran out of time last night).


-The truck is beautiful, cosmetically everything could not look better; it's a real head turner.


-The power the truck has is honestly stupid. I have no idea why you would ever do this conversion and not install the turbo. The spool up and power delivery is amazing; the truck is a monster and the conversions are very nicely done.




- Gearing - I find myself running out of gears very quickly. I end up in 5th in a matter of seconds and find myself wishing I could keep going. I believe the LT230 that is installed is a 1.4 and I think the truck needs a 1.2. It is capable of so much more, but is currently going to be screaming at 60mph. I have a spare LT230 that came out of a D1 that I think will solve my need for speed issue. I can see myself doing this soon.


- The truck seems to run a little warm. I suspect the gauge is not working correctly or something along those lines. I need to get an IR gun and check actual temperature.


Overall, the truck is fantastic.




Here are some pictures:













































































I'll try and post more later after I get some seat time.
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  #42  
Old May 25th, 2016, 09:58 AM
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Robert Davis
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Good workmanship.

Likely you are undergeared with the 4.7 raito differentials.
The 1.2 LT230 will help some, but what you need are 3.54 Differentials with the current 1.4 LT230.
This is an easy swap, although you do have to remove the driveshafts and extract the front half shafts.
I loosen the whole swivel ball after taking the front brake line loose.
The rear drive shafts can be extracted with the wheels and hubs in place to swap the diff pumpkin.
Reassemble and bleed the brakes.
If you cap the brake lines, then there is no drain down of all the brake fluid.
Despite what you hear and read DO NOT pinch off the front brake hoses.
It will damage them and promote premature failure... I know this by experience.
Make sure you get early RR Classic diffs with the correct number of splines for the series half shafts.
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  #43  
Old May 25th, 2016, 11:40 AM
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Will
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Good workmanship.

Likely you are undergeared with the 4.7 raito differentials.
The 1.2 LT230 will help some, but what you need are 3.54 Differentials with the current 1.4 LT230.
This is an easy swap, although you do have to remove the driveshafts and extract the front half shafts.
I loosen the whole swivel ball after taking the front brake line loose.
The rear drive shafts can be extracted with the wheels and hubs in place to swap the diff pumpkin.
Reassemble and bleed the brakes.
If you cap the brake lines, then there is no drain down of all the brake fluid.
Despite what you hear and read DO NOT pinch off the front brake hoses.
It will damage them and promote premature failure... I know this by experience.
Make sure you get early RR Classic diffs with the correct number of splines for the series half shafts.

Thank you Robert.


I have a parallel thread over on GNR with a similar conversation going. Swapping the diffs to 3.54 is one option mentioned. The other option thrown out there is using a gear swap kit from Ashcroft for the LT230. The thought is that this would allow me to achieve much higher speeds but keep the stock Series diffs and keep the low range gearing for when I am offroad.


That is appealing, but I have no experience with something like that.
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  #44  
Old May 25th, 2016, 11:47 AM
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second that on the diff gearing. also a swap over to the Series LR style thermostat housing will give the ability to run the stock series LR top rad hose. That big loop of corrugated nonsense isn't doing you any favors.

oh and btw congrats. lets see some more pics of the PS setup and the 5 speed conversion
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #45  
Old May 25th, 2016, 01:49 PM
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Will
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
second that on the diff gearing. also a swap over to the Series LR style thermostat housing will give the ability to run the stock series LR top rad hose. That big loop of corrugated nonsense isn't doing you any favors.

oh and btw congrats. lets see some more pics of the PS setup and the 5 speed conversion



That's a good idea regarding the thermostat housing. Do you just plug up what would be the heater control valve portion of the housing with a plug?




Now I need to find some 3.54 diffs.
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  #46  
Old May 25th, 2016, 02:09 PM
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Ren Ching
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Skinny Pete
'84 90 "Yamelo"/'88 RRC "Chewbacca"
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just use the top piece. the rest of it won't work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
That's a good idea regarding the thermostat housing. Do you just plug up what would be the heater control valve portion of the housing with a plug?




Now I need to find some 3.54 diffs.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
1991 RRC- never got a name- long since recycled
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  #47  
Old May 28th, 2016, 09:31 PM
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Will
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Pete,


Thanks for the tip on the Series Thermostat housing, I happened to have a spare housing and hose sitting around so I put it on today…..it looks much better.


I also took a few more pictures of the PS conversion and LT77 conversion. They pictures are not the greatest, but it's hard to get decent pictures when you are laying on your back.


























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  #48  
Old June 1st, 2016, 06:48 PM
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Will
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Got my 3.54 diffs.

They do not have fill holes on the housing, unfortunately my rear diff fill hole is not in the axle housing but rather the diff housing.

Anybody encountered this before? Do you put the guts in the old housing if that is even possible, or do you drill and tap a new fill hole?
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