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  #21  
Old January 1st, 2016, 07:54 PM
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David Frank
1995 ST #2615
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
I am going to have the grey powder burned off, and re-powder satin black.
Nice! They look to be the current color and finish of your td5? Might look nice as-is for a bit.
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  #22  
Old January 1st, 2016, 08:12 PM
RamblerRob
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Rob Apps
1967 series 2a 109 NADA
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Do you mind me asking how much the sideframes were after shipping? I'm not far from you (across the straite) and considering whether to get my sideframes refurbished or buy new. Did you get them from YRM? or rovers north or other?
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  #23  
Old January 2nd, 2016, 02:14 AM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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Nice
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  #24  
Old January 15th, 2016, 08:35 PM
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Scott Pelly
2000 110 TD5
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More progress. Cut out the balance of the rear floor and upsatand, Now it's down to scaling off the rust, POR 15 and putting in the new galvanized cross member. (drops in nicely, but I have a whack of stuff going to powder coat, so I may as well do that piece too).

The outer layer of the drivers side toe box was rusted at the footwell to inner wing bracket. So, drilled out the spot olds, cut out a portion of the toe box, and in went a section of a YRM 004A repair panel, and a new inner footwell to inner wing bracket. Finished it off with PPG DP90 2 Part Epoxy primer. I'll seal the seams this weekend.

Side frames should be ready at the strippers early in the week, hopefully the rear bumper repair will be completed by then, and it can all have a zinc bath at once.
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  #25  
Old January 18th, 2016, 08:12 PM
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Scott Pelly
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Rear bumper is pretty much done. NAS 110 rear bumper had been crushed on the right side... No 45mm pipe is available on any sort of a reasonable time frame, so improvise.

Thicker wall pipe with the same inner diameter, spin it down on the lathe to the correct 45mm. Cut out the old, fit and weld in the new.

Going to figure out some form of jack adapter and get theta on the go, then off to galvanize and powder coat.

Also spent the weekend on the frame removed the last of the crappy dried tar undercoating with a heat gun and scraper. , Used a wire cup on any rust I could reach,cleaned with POR 15 cleaner / degreaser and a scotch write pad and POR 15 metal prep.
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  #26  
Old January 19th, 2016, 02:39 AM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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Good work there. Nice workaround for the 45mm tube too!
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  #27  
Old January 24th, 2016, 12:53 AM
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Scott Pelly
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Lots more time spent on the POR 15 application to the frame. Clean and de-grease, rinse, compress air dry, metal prep, rinse, dry, meticulously paint all the nooks and crannies. Mid crossmember forward to the very front is now complete. I think it will work best to remove the fuel tank and do a full job on the back end.

Did get some time on some fun stuff today though. Managed to get the new Puma seat brackets fitted, trimmed out the front of a couple floor support sections to enable the brackets to fit. Unbolted 2 tub mounts and lifited the tub about 1/2" in the front with a pry bar and the bracket slid in nicely.

Figure out the exact positioning tomorrow, mark everything out for drilling the mounting bolts. Once drilled, I can finish the POR 15 on the top of the mid crossmember.
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  #28  
Old January 24th, 2016, 08:03 AM
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Brian
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lookin good

very nice work
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  #29  
Old January 27th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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Scott Pelly
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With the seat brackets sitting in the correct position, holes were drilled in the floor for mounting the retaining bracket. Test fitted the seat crossmember, everything looks good.

I'm going to wait until I have the side frames in before drilling and mounting the brackets to the main cross member. Then work will start on cutting and dropping the forward portions of the fender wells for clearance on the seat.

The front half of the frame with the POR 15 looks amazing. So why go half way? I'm going to do the entire back section and body mounts... so for access, I may as well remove the fuel tank. I't ben 5 months since I have driven the truck, was that tank full?? Battery is out of the truck so I can't just check the gauge.... turns out it was half full... still heavy and a PIA!

The inboard frame rails were pretty clean, but now I have full access to the rear crossmember, and inboard portion of all the body amounts and frame structure.It's going to be messy, but well worth it.
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  #30  
Old January 27th, 2016, 03:32 PM
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Eric Williamson
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Another Defender saved! Well done Scott.

A few have commented that the 90's builds were the worst quality in terms of corrosion. Steel oxidation and aluminium electrolysis. Even the odd comment of being "par for the course with TD5's".

I wonder if anyone has proof of this and the reasons (apart from where many have been imported from with winter road treatments).

I know my 1950 was in much better shape than many later models, and maybe you guys in the USA are lucky to have the 25 year rule? Who knows!

Eric.
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  #31  
Old January 28th, 2016, 02:35 AM
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Scott Pelly
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Well, I can tell you where to find all the corrosion on a 110 Td5, thats for sure!

Spent the evening in "wire cup hell" it's tough going on the floor trying to get into all the spots. Actually not as rusty as I thought on the frame where the tank was, but the brackets for the body mounts have lots of surface rust.

Probably the most concentrated area of rust has been under the rear seats where the frame starts to bend up over the axle. Being where the exhaust is, I think the constant heating and cooling takes it's toll on the steel. Also tough to get to with the A frame cross member, exhaust and brake lines there. The front of the rear crossmember, behind the rear wheels, for obvious reasons has lots of rust.

Same with galvanic corrosion, middle of the truck (rear upstand where the seat frames are bolted in) is the worst.

If I get time, I may drill out and replace some of the steel rivets with stainless bolts on the cargo floor that are corroding. Stainless bolts with a lick of anti corrosion paste should do the trick. Once the underside is covered with Dinitrol, it will be all sealed up and good for at least another 15 years.

You've got the right idea though Eric, galvanized frame... zinc coating is your friend!
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  #32  
Old January 29th, 2016, 07:42 PM
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Scott Pelly
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These British Steel beauties arrived today..... exciting and all, but it's not like i'm going to gt to use them for a while.
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  #33  
Old January 31st, 2016, 03:19 AM
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Scott Pelly
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Productive day today! after spending last night and this morning doing the frame cleaning on all the rear portion I managed to get all the metal prep done as well. The POR 15 metal prep works really well. It leaves a zinc phosphate coating on any bare metal to help the coating adhere.

On to test fitting the rear seats. Yesterday, my Hofele seat spacers arrived (they lift only the front of the rear seat, which actually increases leg room. Puma rear seats are very upright, reclining them a bit makes for a more comfortable seating position. Set everything up, bolted it all in and the seats line up perfectly with the retainer brackets in the rear floor (yup, measured it right!) Now it's figuring out how much to cut away of the forward portion of the rear inner fender wells to allow the corner of the seat to recess and sit in the retainer bracket (like the Puma body). So, out come the seats,cut, fabricate, install, finish bolting in the brackets, bolt in the underfloor support, drill and install the upsatnd... (sounds easy if you say it fast).

It's gonna be sweet!
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  #34  
Old February 2nd, 2016, 08:45 AM
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John
1999 110 TD5
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Please check your pm's and/or email.

Thanks,

John
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  #35  
Old February 3rd, 2016, 01:16 PM
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Scott Pelly
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At last, the side frames are done!! Picked them up today, along with the fuel filter guard, seatbelt brackets and the mid crossmember to side frame brackets. Sanded down the rough spots on the side frames and slid them in for a test fit, perfect

Have to admit, it cost a few extra$$ over my original rebuild budget, but new galvanized parts are worth their weight in gold. Just thinking that I'll never see rust here again... WOW.

Probably do a little more touch up on them tomorrow, and now I have them on there we can finish laying out the upstand for positioning.

Stripping down the NTO Puma second row doors for paint. I am going to remove everything for paint, no masking of the trim on any of the spots. I have been looking at these in my garage for a year now, so I am glad to have the space back, but even more excited to have new doors! I'll strip down my new fronts tomorrow. Hoping to have the doors, side frames, and various other parts in for paint next week.
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  #36  
Old February 8th, 2016, 06:03 PM
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Mike
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What was the process for getting the side frames galvanized ? Looks awesome.
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  #37  
Old February 8th, 2016, 08:16 PM
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Joe Piojda
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Ok, you call em side frames. I've always heard em called t posts. Look good galvanized. What process you going to use to keep paint on em?
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  #38  
Old February 8th, 2016, 09:24 PM
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Scott Pelly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbalancer View Post
What was the process for getting the side frames galvanized ? Looks awesome.
Have them stripped removing the e coat both outside, and inside the B pillar. (you have to have them dipped by a metal stripping company). Then have them hot dip galvanized. After, you would need to file and sand off any slag and rough areas. Main area to get smooth is the outside of the B pillar. As well, clean out the threads on any captured nuts (there are a few).

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeP View Post
Ok, you call em side frames. I've always heard em called t posts. Look good galvanized. What process you going to use to keep paint on em?
Microcat actually has the part titled as"FRAME ASSEMBLY-BODY SIDE"

I am going to clean with PPG DX579 and then condition DX520 as a pre primer paint treatment. DX520 is as close a product I have been able to find to "T-Wash" which is what is used in the UK as a pre paint treatment on galvanized steel. (T-Wash is a modified zinc phosphate solution which contains a small amount of copper salts.)

Mordant Solution / T Wash
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  #39  
Old February 9th, 2016, 01:39 AM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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Had mine galvanised when I built the project 110 as well. Just shot blasted then galv'd,

Afterwards you need to re tap the threaded bits for the door catches and seat belt units.

Certainly worth doing as they're a common piece to rot out on 110 SW's and a PITA to swap out!
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  #40  
Old February 9th, 2016, 01:53 AM
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Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDN38 View Post
These British Steel beauties arrived today..... exciting and all, but it's not like i'm going to gt to use them for a while.
If those Mach 5's are used, check real careful around the welds for cracking both on the outside and inside of the rim. I have 4 that came off my D2, all were brand new and all are cracking, unfortunately they were pre-redesign so no chance of any comeback.

Guess I'll make a few coffee tables out of them now
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