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  #61  
Old November 2nd, 2008, 07:25 AM
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Jamie Austin
1992 110 Td5 CSW & 1989 MB G-Wagen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
It took me hours to run a pilot wire through the chassis, there seem to be hundreds of obstructions on the inside of the chassis frame getting the loom through was no joke either. I ended up feeding it in through the rear of the chassis and out of the hole in the chassis at the front. Not a job I;d undertake lightly again. The whole job took about a day
Your truck is looking really good though, love the intercooler
I used an cable puller i've got at work, it's like a huge recoilable tape measure, that spring steel stuff, with a loop on the end. took about 5 minutes of jiggery pokery to get the thing pushed down the chassis, then just tie the loom to it and jiggery-poke it back up again.

I've done all my chassis-up rebuilds with it, makes the job quite easy.
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  #62  
Old November 2nd, 2008, 02:52 PM
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Mike Hammond
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That makes me Sooooo happy
I ended up using TV areal cable after trying twin flat & earth cable with zero success.
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  #63  
Old November 2nd, 2008, 08:19 PM
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Good enough ...

Thanks Jim,

I will give it another try using your method tomorrow.

Pat
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  #64  
Old November 3rd, 2008, 09:39 AM
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Pat,

Is that one of the $148 ebay intercoolers ? I have one lying in my den waiting for me to get inspired and install it. I like the brackets you made in the front/top. What did you make for the pins on the bottom ? Just a section of bar stock with holes ? In looking at what Allard shows as their mounting hardware thats what it appears they use.
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  #65  
Old November 3rd, 2008, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
Pat,

Is that one of the $148 ebay intercoolers ?
Yes ! And from what I can see its four times the useful size of the OEM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
I like the brackets you made in the front/top. What did you make for the pins on the bottom ? Just a section of bar stock with holes ?
Thanks ! For the top its just 1/8" steel bended at two 45 degrees angles. As for the bottom, I use 1/4" steel plate cut in an "L" shape with holes for the lower rubber grummet and two holes to mount on the two bottom bolts from the radiator/intercooler rack. I had to use spacers to lower the mounts about 5/8" so the top of the intercooler would clear the hood catch. You will have to use longer bolts and one bracket is going to be longer than the other if you want your in/out pipes to clear the shroud properly (don't have electric fan yet).

I bought steel tubing (2") in pre-bent "U" shape that I have cut in section and TIG welded back into pipes with silicone ends.

I will post on those once it is completed.

Pat
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  #66  
Old November 5th, 2008, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofit
I bought steel tubing (2") in pre-bent "U" shape that I have cut in section and TIG welded back into pipes with silicone ends.

I will post on those once it is completed.

Pat
Pat,
Please do. I'm having trouble visualizing. I'm running the engine driven fan and the VDO gauge seldom gets above the 180 degrees needed for the thermostat to open. Being much further South I also plan to add a/c and need to fit the condensor up there as well. In speaking to Pendy I will be playing with moving the pegs on the bottom of the frame in order to move that radiator an inch or so closer to the fan to make some more room. Have you turned up the boost and tweaked the pump for additional fueling to take advantage of the cooler charge yet ? Really interested in hearing what your performance gain is.
Doug
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  #67  
Old November 5th, 2008, 08:56 PM
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Her are the finished pipes temporarily mounted to the intercooler. It required 3 x 45 deg. and 1x 90 deg. silicone units.

As you can see I will also have to baffle the radiator to maximize the airflow.

I will start the engine next week and I will probably tune the pump and turbo lightly.

I will let you know of the end results for sure.

My only question remains is what to do with the cross bard that go from the each side of the chassi to the hood catch ? Are the required or should I fab some new one ? Anyone ?

Pat
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  #68  
Old November 6th, 2008, 08:24 AM
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nicely done what type of cool clamps are you going to use on those silicone hoses ?
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  #69  
Old November 6th, 2008, 08:54 AM
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Jim Cheney
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You should use titanium, pg 249 of the mcmaster catalog.
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  #70  
Old November 7th, 2008, 08:31 AM
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Need something better than the stock "Jubilee" clamps. I have popped to hoses off and I haven't turned the boost up yet. The exhaust on my boat uses a "T" clamp.
These are 316 stainless and the bar part of the t is mounted to the band on one end and the shaft of the t is threaded through a flange on the other. You can exert some pretty great pressure compared to normal hose clamps.
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  #71  
Old November 7th, 2008, 08:33 AM
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Yes, I have one of those t-clamps where the rad hose enters the water pump. I just couldn't get that joint to seal up with a regular clamp.
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  #72  
Old November 7th, 2008, 08:47 AM
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page 252 McMaster Carr

T-Bolt Hose and Tube Clampshttp://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/114/...l/5312kp1s.gif
T-bolt design provides high strength and a 360° seal. Clamps are reusable. Locknut has a nylon insert. Band is 3/4" wide and 0.025" thick. Tighten with a 7/16" wrench. Temperature range is -75° to +250° F.
300 Series Stainless Steel with Zinc-Plated Steel T-Bolt— Housing and band are 300 series stainless steel for very good corrosion resistance. Band has rolled edges to protect hose and tube. T-bolt and locknut are yellow zinc-plated steel, which has fair corrosion resistance.
All Stainless Steel— Have excellent corrosion resistance.
Note: When choosing a clamp, measure the outside diameter of your hose with the fitting installed
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  #73  
Old November 7th, 2008, 05:36 PM
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Yessssss ...

I did go with that type of clamps, not McMasters as we don't have it up here, just went to an hydraulics shop and took the toughest they had out of stainless.

Front grill went in today and almost finished the electrical under the bonnet. It should start purring by the end of next week. Hopefully !

Pat
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  #74  
Old November 7th, 2008, 08:07 PM
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I'm jelous. The solenoid on my starter died today.
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  #75  
Old November 7th, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
I'm jelous. The solenoid on my starter died today.
Don't feel too bad, mine has not run for the last two years ... Can't wait ... 2 more weeks !!!

Pat
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  #76  
Old November 11th, 2008, 10:38 PM
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Well I finally got the rear wiring through the chassi rail and it only took like 15 mins with a fisher. WOW !

I am now finishing the connection of the twin Odysseys and the National Luna and Warn winch and I will call it done.

Next week is all about making myself a nice font bumper with brush guard and a rear bumper with integral swing away tyre carrier and Hi Lift holder. Then its repainting those with the 5 wolf weels semi gloss black and off to Line-X we go !

Thanks all ! I will post more pics as I go.

Pat
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  #77  
Old November 23rd, 2008, 09:33 PM
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Side note for Doug ...

Here are the pictures I have from my laptop archive.

Pat
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  #78  
Old November 24th, 2008, 09:06 AM
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Pat,
thanks- that shows the angles that I needed.

Doug
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  #79  
Old November 25th, 2008, 09:22 AM
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congratulations, your project came out GREAT! Im about to embark in D110 2 door pick up project, no engine right now, I was thinking of putting in a chevy 350. I will post a thread in the next month about it.
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  #80  
Old December 23rd, 2008, 11:34 AM
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Pat,
Your truck is looking great. I'm working on a tdi project as well and really like the way you have done the fuel lines. I have been perusing Paragons site but am not sure exactly what I need. What type of fittings did you use? Did you connect directly to the steel tube banjo fitting eliminating the plastic pipe? I think one hose is 5/16", the other 3/8"? Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
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