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  #41  
Old June 30th, 2008, 10:01 PM
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Pat
1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
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A few more parts in ...

Going to start it next week !!! If all goes well that is !

Pat
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  #42  
Old July 1st, 2008, 01:33 AM
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Pure Rover Porn. I love it...
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  #43  
Old September 8th, 2008, 11:33 PM
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1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
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Almost done ...

So the front end is almost in one piece. I used Second Skin Audio Damplifier Pro through the cab except for the lower part that is getting Linexed. I also used their Luxury Liner sandwiched between the wing and hood protector and the paint to block some of the sound.

Now if I can just put all the electrical back in with new wiring and start it.

Also another D in the shop with a picture of the shop cat AKA "Petite Madame".

Pat
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  #44  
Old September 9th, 2008, 12:18 PM
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That is going to be one beautiful truck. I am super jealous!
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  #45  
Old September 10th, 2008, 11:20 AM
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Is that vacume line silicone ? Where did you get it ?


Digging the billet shift knobs.
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  #46  
Old September 10th, 2008, 02:09 PM
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Pat
1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
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All my fuel lines and vacuum lines come from Paragon Performance;

http://www.paragonperformance.com/Silicone%20hose.html

Don is a nice guy to deal with.

The billet shift knobs were a Christmas gift from my wife who just can't wait to drive this one.

And thanks for all the positive comments.

Pat
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  #47  
Old September 10th, 2008, 07:20 PM
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Great link- thanks for sharing.
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  #48  
Old September 15th, 2008, 05:14 PM
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1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
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A blank canvas ...

Here is the dash that I had to re-upholster with marine grade vinyl. The center console is an Iron Goat with a Mud Pod from Mud UK. In it will be going VDO load meter (amps) and a physical temp meter. Also coming is an Alpine iDA-X001 head unit and rocker switches for ARB, winch selenoid and aux lights. In the Mud Pod will be the Webasto controls and some space for future mods.

Pat

P.S. sorry for the dust
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  #49  
Old September 19th, 2008, 09:58 AM
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OK, so I hate fir trees !

I did not want to put in fir tree type fasteners cause like everyone knows you can only take them out once and up here at -30C they tend to break. So I elected to put rivnuts all around and go with stainless steel finishing screws.

Have a look at the end results !

Pat
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  #50  
Old September 29th, 2008, 09:32 PM
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1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
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Electrics ...

So now I have to face my daemons !

The whole harness has to be redone. I am facing some dilemmas as to take the whole thing out for another harness (ie: Painless Performance Product) or make an hybrid harness out of the two or go all out and get a genuine OEM harness at 1200$ a pop !

I am leaning towards the hybrid.

Here is a pict of the whole mess ! The thing would heat up when the truck was running for long periods. Disaster just waiting to happen.


And by the way there was about two pounds of electrical tape holding the thing together.

Pat
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  #51  
Old September 29th, 2008, 10:57 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Not to be a wet blanket, but if you splash out for the genuine harness, you'll get not only ease/speed of installation, you'll be able to refer to a LR diagram for any repairs. And not that you want to sell, but anyone in the future that has to work on the electrics won't have to pull their hair out. If nothing else, suck it down and go genuine with the wiring.
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  #52  
Old September 30th, 2008, 10:13 PM
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$1200 whew is that the dealer price ? The wiring harness on a 200 tdi truck is incredibly simple hard to believe that price. Have you checked with George @ RDS ? The back half of the truck harness is reasonable.
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  #53  
Old September 30th, 2008, 11:43 PM
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New should be about $600 from the UK. Check Autospark in the UK
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  #54  
Old October 1st, 2008, 04:21 PM
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Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
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I was quoted around 300 for a new loom from Auto Sparks, If your old loom was chopped up and badly spliced then a new one would be the way to go. Luckily only one wire was crispy on my loom so I spliced in a new section.
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  #55  
Old October 1st, 2008, 05:24 PM
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1984 110 CrewCab 200Tdi
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Well ...

After going through the whole thing I got to the burnt part of the loom and isolated the what I thought was the problem. I will start trying the loom tomorrow and will get a better sense of things from there. A new loom was something I was hoping to avoid as I will be putting allot of extra wires in there so chopping it a little myself.

I will post more in the coming days.

And thanks everyone for you support, it truly makes this experience more interesting.

Pat
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  #56  
Old October 2nd, 2008, 01:57 PM
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I soldered all the connections I made, and made sure all the connector block terminals were corrosion free.
On reassembly I gave all he connectors a smear of petroleum grease. So far everything has worked fine including 1000 or so miles off road in Morocco this summer. When putting the loom back together use loom tape - it's got no adhesive.
The worst bit was getting the loom through the chassis to the rear lights
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  #57  
Old October 2nd, 2008, 09:16 PM
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Cool !

Thanks Mike ! And definatlly soldering is the way to go and also dielectric grease in the connectors. From today it seems that I may be able to salvage it in a decent and clean fashion.

And yes I am dreading the frame rail fishing afternoon for the rear loom.

But I'm not saying victory yet.

Pat
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  #58  
Old October 31st, 2008, 10:09 PM
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And upgrades are going in ...

So up to now all the wiring as went in and sadly enough I was unable to route the rear loom through the rails. After spending more than 4 hours trying I finally gave up.

So it went with the fuel lines over the frame.

After integrating the Webasto heater, EGT, National Luna, CB radio, Alpine radio, Oil pressure and Engine Temp (both mechanical), ARB compressor, Amp (load) meter, Warn 9.5 XP and twin Odyssey 1500s I am finally seeing the end of it. I also added a parking brake light in the dash that was there but not connected to anything. I put a little normally closed microswitch and bingo !

The only remaining item was the oversized intercooler and boy was it something. I really wanted to do it right, and hopefully I did. (unless you guys point something out ).

Attached you will see pics of the massive intercooler with the preliminary brackets. Its not connected yet as I am waiting for the silicone hoses but I should be ready to fire up the engine next friday. Also you will find The new dashboard too.

The intercooler fit with 1/4 inch on top from the latch and between the radiator. Tight but a good fit.

Thanks and I will post on the start up !!!

Pat
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  #59  
Old October 31st, 2008, 10:24 PM
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Your truck makes me very happy.
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  #60  
Old November 2nd, 2008, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofit
So up to now all the wiring as went in and sadly enough I was unable to route the rear loom through the rails. After spending more than 4 hours trying I finally gave up.
It took me hours to run a pilot wire through the chassis, there seem to be hundreds of obstructions on the inside of the chassis frame getting the loom through was no joke either. I ended up feeding it in through the rear of the chassis and out of the hole in the chassis at the front. Not a job I;d undertake lightly again. The whole job took about a day
Your truck is looking really good though, love the intercooler
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