100" Hybrid Rebuild - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 10:14 AM
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Andy
1999 D2, 1985 D100 Truggy & 1951 S1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Or start a build thread and share with the rest of us!
OK.... I guess another build thread won't hurt....
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  #62  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
Ah cool. Are you using the currie Johnny joints and which ones? I will be sending you a PM with my contact info if you feel like sharing what you have discovered during your build.

And I see you moved the front shock mount too. That's looking good. You have done a lot of work to get where you are.
The joints are the 2.5" JJ's with 1.25" threads, the front end has a Qt Services 3 link on it, that's why the shocks are relocated infront of the springs. This truck is now on it's 3rd rebuild, I've had it for over 10yrs.

Current rebuild incorporates :
RHD to LHD conversion
100" wb stretch
Rear 8274 winch tray
Either a tray back or tube tub..... undecided
Tube style front wings
3.9 ECU upgraded to Megasquirt
Repaint & general tidy up

The truck was parked for the past 4.5yrs whilst I built our new home here in Revelstoke, that's almost finished so was time to start the fun stuff

PS... if you want to learn lots about 100" conversions join the Devon 4x4 forum here :

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?op...tcat&Itemid=82

Plenty of challenge truck builds to read through in the projects section & the Devon truck builds are well photo documented for borrowing ideas
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  #63  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Jeff Payne
'83 110 3 Door
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That is an awful lot of building. Maybe the third time is the charm? You should do a build thread so we can all see what you are up to.

I will check out that Devon forum. I have not spent any time there so far.

On those 2.5" joints with the 1.25" threads, what size tubing are you using? The threaded bung slips into 1.5" ID tubing which could be up to 2" OD. Is that totally overkill? When I was looking at parts last night I thought of using the 1" threaded joint which would use the 1.25" bung and then a 1.75 OD tube. Thoughts?
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  #64  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 10:28 PM
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I'm using 2" OD DOM for my links.... prob a bit overkill but I live in the mountains and want to play in the rocks
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  #65  
Old May 14th, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Jeff Payne
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I finally got rear links and outrigger built up. I removed the stock rear trailing mount at the frame so I could get the outrigger mounted well to the frame and I incorporated the mount for the link to it. I used 2.5" Johnny joints and 1.75" od DOM
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  #66  
Old May 15th, 2012, 02:04 PM
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Looking good, got enough up travel on the axle end ? My mount is flipped over so the web is on the bottom side.... hopefully start bolting mine back together this w/e once the paint hardens up a bit more.
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  #67  
Old May 15th, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Jeff Payne
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I definitely need to get some of that material out of the way. The zerk is going to certainly hit as is. I put cross supports on the top and bottom there.
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  #68  
Old May 19th, 2012, 08:54 AM
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Stephan
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Figured I would share with all of you guys, I found a whole series on YouTube on a 100 hybrid conversion. It was provided some motivation to get some of my projects done


. Or you can search for "a 4x4 is born" by ini88
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  #69  
Old May 19th, 2012, 12:49 PM
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Andy
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Watched that show with Mark when it first aired on UK tv about 8 yrs ago. He's actually a fully qualified vet & does alot of tv for kids. Did a similar series where he built a kit plane, heli & restored a Jaguar as well I think. Nice to watch it again.... Thanks for posting

------ Follow up post added May 19th, 2012 09:51 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
I definitely need to get some of that material out of the way. The zerk is going to certainly hit as is. I put cross supports on the top and bottom there.
You could swap the zerk out for a flush type, might save some grinding
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  #70  
Old August 4th, 2012, 02:51 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Am I crazy or what? This tub has seen better days no doubt. I have taken off the right side and the right rear to straighten it up. It's coming along nicely I think compared to to the left. They were both about as bad. The further I'm getting into this phase I'm realizing that nearly every part of the tub could be taken off and straightened or repaired. It is riddled with holes and greatly enlarged wheel arches. If the 100" tub was an off the shelf product I would certainly be looking for a replacement but I feel compelled to fix this one up. Any thoughts?
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  #71  
Old August 4th, 2012, 05:04 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
Its also a good canvas to practice annealing and straitening without much worry.

-Jeff
I think that alone is worth fixing it up. It's coming along nicely now that I'm in the groove a bit. All the previous spot welds were drilled out and riveted and I will probably follow suit when putting it back together. It's gonna look like an airplane when I'm done.
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  #72  
Old August 4th, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Thumbs up

Nice work!
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  #73  
Old August 4th, 2012, 09:51 PM
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Bill Adams
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Depending on how pretty you wish it to be you could use flush rivets. With some high build primer and paint they will disappear
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  #74  
Old August 5th, 2012, 07:04 AM
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I think trail trucks with polished aluminum bodies are the shiz
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  #75  
Old August 6th, 2012, 01:41 PM
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Not a bad option. I saw a Series truck around town last year that had aluminum finish and it looked pretty cool. I'm going to have as much as I can galvanized so it might be too much bling

For colors I'm thinking about Bonatti Gray or Willow Green. Two of my favs. There seemi to be a few willow trucks showing up so I'm kinda leaning towards Eastnor for a green.

We'll see
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  #76  
Old October 27th, 2012, 05:50 PM
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Now I'm up to locating the rear tub to see how much I need to add to the RRC frame. It's fitting up nicely.
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  #77  
Old October 27th, 2012, 07:58 PM
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Nice Jeff.
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  #78  
Old October 27th, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Looking good Jeff.

Can you give us a reminder of what's involved in getting the 109 body onto the rr chassis? Like outriggers and body/tub mounts. I know you have made suspension changes, but I am not sure if these were needed to get things to fit or just for performance. I assume making or adding a rear cross member as well, but what else?

Thanks,
charles
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  #79  
Old October 27th, 2012, 08:58 PM
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Jeff Payne
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Thanks fellers.

I started by adding bulkhead outriggers. Apparently the specs are the same on RRC frames and Defender between motor mounts and trans crossmember. So I measured off my 110 to determine the placement for those in order to locate the bulkhead. Then I added the tub outriggers based on the front ones. I chopped the rear of the frame somewhat randomly behind the rear spring perch to get that our of the way. Landy_andy chopped the rear of his frame, from a D90 I think, at the spring perch and brought it back level from there. I think I will follow suit. I am thinking of some type of rectangular tube rear crossmember with a winch in it. I think the only other modification to the frame will be at the front where the bumper will attach. The RRC has the holes on the side of the horns so I will put holes on top and bottom to accept a Defender style bumper.

Progress has been slow but it's been pretty fun so far
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  #80  
Old October 27th, 2012, 09:03 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks, it doesn't sound too bad.

And tub supports/pads I assume? I had to re-do these for my trailer based on a stretched 90 frame.

Also I read somewhere you have to raise the body to clear the frame arch, is that correct?
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