100" Hybrid Rebuild - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old March 6th, 2012, 10:01 AM
Jpayne's Avatar
Jpayne
Status: Online
Jeff Payne
'83 110 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 1,393
Registry
I'm not sure what's worse, damaging the frame mount or having a "consumable" mount that can be changed out. Granted, this example I am looking at has been beat to hell, but it shows a weak spot in the design.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-940518511.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	84.0 KB
ID:	48633   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2006906740.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	117.0 KB
ID:	48634  

Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old March 6th, 2012, 10:07 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
Wow, the frame kink is impressive.

How about reinforcing the stock mounts before galvy? Put some 3/8 plate under there to act like a skid and additional bracing and it should hold up better. Likewise for all the other spots where you'd usually beat on the frame.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old March 6th, 2012, 10:09 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,531
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by oilburner View Post
If you are looking for a good way to do the chassis outriggers, look up a 4x4 is born on youtube. Episode 2 or 3 has the frame mods, they end up doing a decent job of hanging the bulkhead outriggers. It should be possible to use off the shelf rover outriggers everywhere, I think that goes a long way to making it look good underneath...
This makes me wonder why people don't end up making bolt-on tubular outriggers out of stainless. It seems like a lot less work than forming sheet metal to look like factory. I guess there's some value to making it look "original", but the original design seems (to me) less robust and prone to rust.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old March 6th, 2012, 10:20 AM
Jpayne's Avatar
Jpayne
Status: Online
Jeff Payne
'83 110 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 1,393
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Wow, the frame kink is impressive.

How about reinforcing the stock mounts before galvy? Put some 3/8 plate under there to act like a skid and additional bracing and it should hold up better. Likewise for all the other spots where you'd usually beat on the frame.
Yeah this frame has had a hard life. It's a full 7/8" shorter from the front to the transmission mount on one side. I was definitely thinking of full reinforcement along the length of the frame rails on the bottom. I could add some reinforcing under the stock mounts that would help a lot.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old March 8th, 2012, 09:58 PM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
Quote:
Yeah this frame has had a hard life. It's a full 7/8" shorter from the front to the transmission mount on one side.
It's in pretty good shape considering that it's a mid 70's frame, I built it in 95-96, and wheeled it at Tellico 2-3 times a year from 1997 until they closed it. Sometimes it wouldn't even come off the trailer between trips. Tellico was about the only place I took it.

It's been in LRO, drove a reporter around one year, Cafepress had t-shirts, lunchboxes, and they still have a mousepad with it on it. http://www.cafepress.com/+tellico_ap..._winn,11739039

In an 18 month period, that truck conquered every trail at Tellico without pulling a line.

This is probably the last trip...lower 2 (rockgarden)
Click image for larger version

Name:	2006.jpg
Views:	211
Size:	150.2 KB
ID:	48755

Click image for larger version

Name:	2006-1.jpg
Views:	212
Size:	178.4 KB
ID:	48756

I owned that truck longer than any other vehicle in my life, bring her back to life, hope it gives you as much joy as it did me.
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old March 8th, 2012, 10:10 PM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
BTW, sorry I took all the good sh*t off it before I got rid of it...but the 90 needed the skidplates and shafts and lockers.

Call me if you want to know the details of all the engine mods...229-389-1766

Also, remember the axle housings are the old ones, but the spindles and hubs are the new style so it can run the post '90 shafts...hard to find hardened shafts in the old length...and keep the LT 95, you'll never be able to tear it up...unless you put 90 wt. in it...it uses motor oil.
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old March 8th, 2012, 10:15 PM
rijosho's Avatar
rijosho
Status: Offline
Joshua
1995 Black ST - Rhinolined edition
Research Assistant/Eagle Eyes
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 16,557
Registry
Winn how about a thread dedicated to some of your builds? How many of your old trucks have gone up for sale or have sold here in the past month or two? Seems like a few!
__________________
Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old March 8th, 2012, 10:15 PM
Jpayne's Avatar
Jpayne
Status: Online
Jeff Payne
'83 110 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 1,393
Registry
Hey that's awesome Winn. I have had a lot of fun with it so far by digging into it. Pulled the engine today and pressure washed it off. Looking forward to start getting it built in the new frame. I should order that mouse pad! I got your info from Scott the when I picked up the chassis. I would like to give you a call one of these days to chat about the truck.

Cheers.
Jeff

------ Follow up post added March 8th, 2012 10:20 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by winn442 View Post
BTW, sorry I took all the good sh*t off it before I got rid of it...but the 90 needed the skidplates and shafts and lockers.
Yea what's up with that? Ha ha well if it had all that good sh!t on it still then it would have cost a lot more to get it. I can cost a small fortune to put all that back I'm finding out. I'm thinking about the Toyota conversion. That's good to know about the later hubs. I noticed the vented front disks which indicated a later axle but wasn't really sure.

I almost need a cheat sheet on all the different years and models that the parts are from
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old March 8th, 2012, 10:43 PM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
It would take all day to type up everything I did to that truck...I've got a two page writeup on it somewhere, Ill find it and send it to you.....but you're welcome to call if you ever have any questions

I've got the rocksliders still, was going to shorten them and put them on the 90, but I don't have time like I used to so I got some store-bought ones (gasp!)...they're yours if you want them...

------ Follow up post added March 8th, 2012 10:46 PM ------

Quote:
Winn how about a thread dedicated to some of your builds? How many of your old trucks have gone up for sale or have sold here in the past month or two? Seems like a few!
Lost count of how many I've had over the years, but the only ones I've seen on here lately were the green 110 and the trail truck.
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old March 9th, 2012, 09:04 AM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
Wrote this several years ago when I was thinking about selling it whole.....

Engine- it’s a 3.5 Rover. Spent a LOT of time and money rebuilding this motor. Besides the machine shop work (crank turned and block bored) I did it all myself.

- bored .030 over, new pistons and rings. Rods, crank, and block Magnafluxed.
- crank turned and balanced, all new rod and main bearings.
- heads reworked, with larger 4.6 “tulip” valves (more flow), new springs and guides, heads extensively ported and polished with valve guides cut down and polished in the runners, combustion chambers ground to stop the “valve shrouding” with larger valves. Hardened valve seats installed.
- cam- 3 degrees advanced for more low end with Buick 3.8 adjustable true roller chain.
- 3.8 front cover with Buick high volume oil pump and Buick water pump
- HEI distributor (1975 Buick 350)
- Edlebrock manifold with Holley Pro-Jection fuel injection system. Simple system with no O2 sensors. Will run at any angle. Manifold and head ports ground to match.
- Hedman headers with full dual exhaust
- Delco 160 amp alternator
I used this truck for a daily driver for about three months, so I would guess that the engine has less then 2000 miles (including trail rides) on it.

Transmission- LT95- one piece transmission/Transfer case. Toughest Rover unit ever built. Used in the 101’s, and STILL used today by the Australian Army in their 6x6 Perenties with Nissan 3.9 Turbo diesels. Only problem these untis have is the detent springs get weak. Never bothered to replace them, I just use two wooden sticks to hold in place, one for low range and one for high. It even has an OD unit, which is robust compared to the series units. Back when I used this for a daily driver with the OD it would hit 90 MPH easily.

Front axle- Hardened CV’s and shafts, Maxi-drive 4.75 ring and pinion, ARB locker. Southdown guard. Sleeved steering rods. Maxi- drive hubs.

Rear Axle- Maxi-drive shafts and 4.75 R&P. ARB Locker Maxi- drive hubs. Currently missing two teeth on ring gear, will replace if sold.

Body- Basically a Series III 109 with the rear bed shortened at both ends for the 100” wheelbase. Defender hood and grille. Rollbar welded to frame. Two deep cycle Optimas under the seat. ARB compressor. Defender seats. Will throw in a new Tuffy box. Also included is a full hardtop that I custom made to fit, with a roof rack and rear door. Door tops included. I also have a set of rare early 110 doors that were painted to match, they have rollup windows but recessed outer handles a la Series, but they will cost you an extra 500 bucks.

Frame- Won’t lie, the frame is rusty and tweaked in several places. Price includes a mint Range Rover frame to go with the truck. One could probably replace the rear section and go for years with no problem.


Other- Very stout homemade front bumper (same dimension as a defender), brush guard, Southdown steering guard, and a LOT of skidplates underneath. Some are storebought, some homemade. Everything is WELL protected. Rare 15x10 wheels, 38x12.50-15 TSL’s, only three trips to Tellico on them. (15’s stay on rim better than 16’s, I run 9 pounds when trail riding). Warn 9500 HS winch with 150 feet of rope, not cable.

I spent years building this truck, and is probably one of the most capable Rovers around. It has done EVERY trail at Tellico without a line pulled at one time or another. If you want a daily driver, with a little work and a extra set of tires, it could pull double duty. I used it to commute for a while and it drove great on the road with “normal” tires.
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old March 9th, 2012, 09:20 AM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
In case you're wondering, this is where all the good stuff went....8 month every other weekend rebuild

Click image for larger version

Name:	photo1.jpg
Views:	178
Size:	82.2 KB
ID:	48767

Click image for larger version

Name:	photo2.jpg
Views:	166
Size:	67.7 KB
ID:	48768

Click image for larger version

Name:	photo3.jpg
Views:	162
Size:	87.5 KB
ID:	48769
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old March 13th, 2012, 09:42 PM
Jpayne's Avatar
Jpayne
Status: Online
Jeff Payne
'83 110 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 1,393
Registry
While dissembling the old setup I found a spot where the front drive shaft had wallowed out about a quarter inch deep well on the transmission crossmember. I am wondering if I need to find a shorter bell housing or just cut into the cross member to allow for more articulation in the front end. This is an LT95 on a 1988 Range Rover chassis. My research shows that the LT95 was used on the Range rover through 1983. The factory transmission mounts line up on my new chassis but perhaps either the crossmember is too far forward with this arrangement or the tranny is too far back.

Does any one have any experience with this issue? I doubt it since there aren't that many LT95s around. Apparently there is a short bell housing for a 101 but I have no idea where to find one. This is definitely limiting the front articulation so I would like to figure out how to overcome it.

Thanks.

Jeff
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC_2191.jpg
Views:	128
Size:	82.1 KB
ID:	49020  
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old March 13th, 2012, 10:18 PM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
I would just notch and weld/reinforce the crossmember myself.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old March 14th, 2012, 04:11 PM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
You'd also have to change the input shaft if you went to a different length bellhousing....I didn't know there were different lengths on a LT95...I know there are different lengths on the LT85, LT777, and R380.
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old March 14th, 2012, 04:23 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Short shaft LT95 was used on 101 forward controls.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old March 14th, 2012, 07:56 PM
airbornrover's Avatar
airbornrover
Status: Offline
William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Land by parkway and 33
Posts: 1,882
This is one company I came across years ago that sells 101 mechanical parts. I would just keep it simple and notch out the cross member and be done with it.
http://www.nkrecovery.co.uk/index.html
__________________
Quote:
Just to be clear, i was not bragging. i was calling you a pussy. Ren Ching
There is nothing as permanent as a temporary fix. JSBriggs
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old March 14th, 2012, 08:51 PM
junkyddog11's Avatar
junkyddog11
Status: Offline
oil soaked filter
95 RRC 300tdi
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: No. Berwick, Maine
Posts: 1,253
what a bone lol. (just kidding) notch the crossmember, common issue with lifted Series rigs. I sometimes make driveshafts that sre of a smaller tube as well as a little scallop action to the frame (insert a section of a tube)

Use nickle copper for the brake lines. Stainless sucks and designed to attract people who like shiny things.
__________________
Matt Browne


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old March 14th, 2012, 09:56 PM
Jpayne's Avatar
Jpayne
Status: Online
Jeff Payne
'83 110 3 Door
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 1,393
Registry
I do like shiny things... And I want them to last most importantly. Why not stainless? It sucks to work with or another reason? It has some type of copper on the old frame now
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old March 15th, 2012, 05:36 AM
aka rover's Avatar
aka rover
Status: Offline
ed angel
95 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Anchorage Alaska
Posts: 1,132
Registry
The stainless lines are just fine untill you need to do a do a repair on them they are not as easy to flare and get to reseal.

they are more prone to kink offroad if they get hooked on a log limb etc. I would stick to copper nickle on a trail rig and leave the stainless to the sportscar guys.

Just my .02

Nice build By the way!!
__________________
95 D90 SW 4.6 ARBs 8274 37" BFGs Gigglepin twin motor 8274
94 D90 ST R380 constine green stock
85 D110 3.5 3 DR
67 NADA diesel tremec 4spd salisbury rear springs on front and a LOT MORE TO GO.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old March 15th, 2012, 05:51 AM
winn442's Avatar
winn442
Status: Offline
Winn Bearden
........
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Americus, GA
Posts: 255
Registry
They actually produced the LT95 up into the 90's for the Aussie Perenties. Can't remember the details, but it had a suffix on it (LT95B or something) Third axle ran off of a PTO coming out of the transfer. Wonder if they used an adapter plate with the standard bellhousing or they had a special bellhousing for the Izusu 3.9? One of those bellhousings or adapters would make for an easy conversion...
__________________
Winn Bearden
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Build-up's, Projects & Registry Profiles > Truck Build-up's & Restores

Tags
rebuild

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A Ghost is Born (100" Hybrid) Part 2 djrover Truck Build-up's & Restores 11 October 4th, 2014 07:31 PM
Disco/Defender Hybrid Project RedRhinoProducts For Sale - Vehicles 3 December 11th, 2005 09:14 PM
8274 Brake rebuild Red90 Defender Technical Discussions 4 October 4th, 2005 10:52 AM
Ideas for CVC's "banana flambe" rebuild evilfij Misc. Chit-Chat 24 September 23rd, 2005 01:10 PM
Power steering box rebuild instructions? ezzzzzzz Defender Technical Discussions 1 August 4th, 2004 11:35 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:05 PM.


Copyright