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  #41  
Old February 14th, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Eric Brown
1997 Arles SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattGuyver_007 View Post
I wouldn't recommend installing resistors because it's another connection prone to water penetration and/or failure. Furthermore, part of the allure of LED technology is the low current draw so when a resistor is installed you are no longer taking advantage of the low current draw- you're simply turning the energy into heat.

SOLUTION: I just installed LED's (both front and rear) and then ordered the LED bulb Flasher unit from superbrightleds.com for $12.95 which solves the problem correctly. (They ship wicked fast too.)

FYI- the flasher unit is part #CF13GL-02 and I highly recommend ordering a couple of interior LED's while you're at it- they make a huge difference and worth every penny of the $14.95

Can you post a link to the flasher unit that works with our trucks? I just tried searching and there seems to be a few different flasher units.

Also...what bulbs work for the overhead lights?
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  #42  
Old February 14th, 2012, 03:44 PM
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Ian Gregory
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It depends on the flasher unit you have. If you have a 97 then you should have a PRC8876 which is a 4 pin relay. Not sure on the 94/95 what they run.

The SuperBright CF13GL-02 is a 3 pin relay.

The difference is the 4th pin drives the trailer warning light on the dash. You don't need this for your flashers to work so the SuperBright relay will work but your trailer warning lamp will be inop.

If you want to retain the trailer warning lamp then you need to use an EP26 4 pin relay. I found mine on Autolumination.com for about the same price.

Here is the link:

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

1st one on the 2nd table down.
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  #43  
Old February 14th, 2012, 04:52 PM
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Matt VA
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EXTERIOR:

• 2 x Front Parking: 1156-CW45-T $49.90 (1156-X18-T: $35.90)
• 2 x Front Signal: 1156-A45-T $49.90 (1156-X18-T: $35.90)
• 2 x Front Side Marker: WLED-ALX $19.90
• 2 x Rear Signal: 1156-A45-T $49.90 (1156-X18-T: $35.90)
• 2 x Rear Brake: 1156-R45-T $49.90 (1156-X18-T: $35.90)
•1 x Rear Window Stop Lamp: 1156-R45-T $24.95 (1156-X18-T)
• 2 x Rear Side Marker: WLED-ALX $19.90
• 2 x License Plate: White BA9S-W4-12V $4
• 1 x Reverse Light: 1156-CW45-T $24.95 (1156-X18-T: $17.95)
• 1 x LED Bulb Flasher unit CF13GL-02 $12.95 x 1
• 2 x Load Resistor Kit $4.95 x 2 (may or may not need these but if all the lights blink when signalling then install these up front)
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

INTERIOR:

• 2 x VDO Vision Black Speedo: WLED-GHP5 $11.90
• 1 x VDO Vision Black Fuel: WLED-GHP5 $5.95
• 1 x VDO Vision Black Temp WLED-GHP5 $5.95
• 1 x VDO Vision Black Tach: 74-GHP3 $5.95
• 2 x Dome Lights: 3710-WWHP6 $29.90
• 1 x Rear Defroster: 74GHP $2.49
• 1 x Rear Wiper: 74GHP $2.49
• 1 x Rear Wiper Washer: 74GHP $2.49
• 1 x Hazard: 74RHP $2.49
• 1 x Clock: BA7S $1.50
• 1 x Cigar Lighter: 74-GHP3 $3.49
• 1 x Heater Lever: 74GHP $2.49 (74-GHP3 $3.49)
• 1 x Blower Lever: 74GHP $2.49 (74-GHP3 $3.49)
• 15 Panel Lights: various colors of 74HP

Simply type these part numbers in to the search on www.superbrightleds.com
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  #44  
Old February 14th, 2012, 05:09 PM
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Matt VA
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I should note that you are better off ordering the complete LED light kit from J8 instead of the Front and Rear Signals, Reverse and Brake lights listed above. However, IMO most of the other led's listed above are a worthwhile purchase.

I went one step further and installed these: http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/he...00-7-round.pdf

As well as these: http://www.rigidindustries.com/D2-p/d2.htm

Oh, and this for the backup light mounted within the Safety Devices Rack: http://www.rigidindustries.com/product-p/rgdl06dif.htm

Yes, I have a small fortune in lights on my truck now but I didn't have to run near as many relays, retained OEM switches and original wiring because the loads are so minimal. Should be much more reliable and improved the overall look of the truck (not to mention I can make it like daytime).

Most of these upgrades fit into OEM locations or are much smaller than giant Hella's, etc,
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  #45  
Old February 14th, 2012, 05:56 PM
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Eric Brown
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Thanks for posting all the info!! I think I'm going to order some more for the interior.

Questions....How do you like the LED headlights? Where did you purchase them?
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  #46  
Old February 15th, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Matt VA
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I love em and they have gotten rave reviews from everyone that has picked a set up from the local 4x4 dealer where I purchased them.

You can call JW direct and they will provide you with a list of nearby dealers but you may want to order out of state to avoid sales tax.
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  #47  
Old February 15th, 2012, 12:37 PM
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John B.
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There is a good unbiased review of different 7" round headlights including the LEDs on expo here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ket-Headlights
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  #48  
Old February 15th, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
There is a good unbiased review of different 7" round headlights including the LEDs on expo here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ket-Headlights
Hey I remember that link!

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=31311
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  #49  
Old February 15th, 2012, 01:05 PM
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The Rigid D2 Driving lights I installed on my new CT Brush Guard (thanks Dale!) are ridiculous. I think I've sold 4 sets in as many days to friends who have witnessed what those little guys put out. As an added bonus, I picked up some blue and amber lens covers for them ($12 / pair) which are great in the snow & dust.
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  #50  
Old February 15th, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Kenny
NAS SW l NAS ST l 110 SW | 110 Crew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattGuyver_007 View Post
The Rigid D2 Driving lights I installed on my new CT Brush Guard (thanks Dale!) are ridiculous. I think I've sold 4 sets in as many days to friends who have witnessed what those little guys put out. As an added bonus, I picked up some blue and amber lens covers for them ($12 / pair) which are great in the snow & dust.

Do you have any pictures with the lights mounted?
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  #51  
Old February 15th, 2012, 02:32 PM
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Matt VA
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I just installed the D2's directly above the winch on the light tabs that come standard on the Camel Trophy brush bar (they hang down from the guard) and haven't had the chance to take a pic of them but I'll post one once I'm back in CO and can snap a pic.

Nevertheless, you can get an idea of their size / shape looking at this pic which shows the same lights (with blue & amber covers) which I mounted along the roll cage. I used a 110 OEM dome switch to control whether the roll cage lights are on or the front aux lights are on. I also installed a separate switch (again, using an OEM dash light switch) that allows me to control whether BOTH the light bar and the front aux lights kick on when I turn my brights on. It's a clean install using the existing switch locations (no cutting) while allowing for any configuration of lights to be on or off.
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  #52  
Old February 20th, 2012, 04:54 PM
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Eric Brown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivespddisco View Post
I think you have the wires backward. The brake light wired in revers. Ill take a pic the wire need and post it up for the recored.
Sorry you are having an issue.
Have you been able to take the pic yet. Still haven't finished wiring these up.
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  #53  
Old February 20th, 2012, 09:28 PM
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I'm after an LED bulb for changing out my pretty much useless existing interior light.
Would this work? http://www.lightdepot.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=232
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  #54  
Old February 21st, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Justin Monnin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_eaze View Post
Have you been able to take the pic yet. Still haven't finished wiring these up.

Sorry I did not get a pic yet. I was at the Romp and to make mater worse I taped the wires up to help protect them.

Best to my memory the black is the ground.
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  #55  
Old February 21st, 2012, 12:40 PM
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I'll toy around with it and when I get it working I'll post for future reference.
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  #56  
Old February 21st, 2012, 01:14 PM
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Part # RNE627 at Rovers North. Doesn't even remotely resemble what I came up with (see below). Back to the drawing board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedD90 View Post
I'm after an LED bulb for changing out my pretty much useless existing interior light.
Would this work? http://www.lightdepot.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=232
------ Follow up post added February 21st, 2012 01:21 PM ------

This looks to be the correct type bulb: http://www.lightdepot.ca/product_inf...roducts_id=153

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedD90 View Post
Part # RNE627 at Rovers North. Doesn't even remotely resemble what I came up with (see below). Back to the drawing board.
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  #57  
Old February 24th, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Justin Monnin
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Sorry for the delay just running behind from the winter romp.

LED wires to D90

Black to black Ground

White to red black Marker light

Red to green purple Brake light
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  #58  
Old February 24th, 2012, 01:22 PM
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FYI- I highly recommend soldering these connections and using at least 4" of heat shrink to cover the connections.

More on this here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eferrerid=2585
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  #59  
Old February 24th, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattGuyver_007 View Post
FYI- I highly recommend soldering these connections and using at least 4" of heat shrink to cover the connections.
You should be using 2 layer heat shrink which includes a glue and sealer that makes the joints watertight. There is no need for 4" if using the proper heatshrink.
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  #60  
Old February 24th, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattGuyver_007 View Post
FYI- I highly recommend soldering these connections and using at least 4" of heat shrink to cover the connections.

More on this here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eferrerid=2585
Even he said the following:
"The customer had standard crimp connectors on the wires and even with heat-shrink and tape that is not a sealed connection by any means."

"Change to quality epoxy lined connectors (you crimp them and then heat them) and you'll be set."


It's more the location than anything. Those wires take a beating from anything on the road in that location!
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