WARNING for those with ECR LED tail lamps - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 24th, 2009, 02:55 PM
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Mike im confused... The unit you show on your site looks completely sealed. How can water get in? Or was that a older inferior unit?..
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  #22  
Old September 24th, 2009, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90DRC
Mike im confused... The unit you show on your site looks completely sealed. How can water get in? Or was that a older inferior unit?..
The unit is sealed.

The installer used crap connectors that let water inside the wire and it went up the wire into the guts of the unit inside the PVC case of the wire.

If he had used sealed connectors (like you see in the image you posted of our plug and play kit) no failure would have happened.

It was 100% installer error.

When properly connected the units do not fail.



I just wanted to let folks know that if they had taken a short-cut and done their connections poorly their lamps could fail as well.
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  #23  
Old September 24th, 2009, 07:48 PM
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Makes sense now just the pics looked a bit different.... Does Mass still spray that crap? I know i was on the 95 riding directly behind one while is was spraying. I'm still fixing damage from that drive 2 winters ago...

As for install I would solder and heat shrink then paint that liquid tape over the seams... I tend to over kill my projects


Question, do you sell LED side markers? I have not been able to find any that will mount using the stock screw holes
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  #24  
Old September 24th, 2009, 11:08 PM
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Not exactly the same, but I installed LED bulbs from Superbrightleds.com in the original light housings of the side markers.
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  #25  
Old September 25th, 2009, 01:27 AM
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Which ones were those?

I found these with a cool looking guard...

http://www.soundoffsignal.com/bus-tr...r/mrkr_120.htm
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  #26  
Old September 25th, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Chris Snyder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90DRC
Which ones were those?

I found these with a cool looking guard...

http://www.soundoffsignal.com/bus-tr...r/mrkr_120.htm
Those don't look too bad. Do the holes match up?
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  #27  
Old September 25th, 2009, 12:21 PM
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Not sure If it goes as par as all the other modification Ive done it will be slightly off and Ill have to make my own part to fit....
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  #28  
Old September 25th, 2009, 07:36 PM
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Ancor heat shrink / crimp connections are actually better than soldered and heat shrunk connections. Soldering unsupported wires leads to vibration failure due to the heat hardened wire and resulting stress riser leading to joint failure. Not an issue wth crimp / shrink joints if you don't use a flame to shrink the tubing (hot air works fine).
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #29  
Old September 28th, 2009, 01:10 PM
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For those that were waiting the LEDs and connectors are now in stock ready to go. Get rid of your potential winter tail light woes before you have to deal with it in February.
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  #30  
Old August 4th, 2010, 10:48 AM
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Just to dig up an old thread.
Another customer who bought DIY (do it yourself connections) LED kit has let us know of some LED lamp failures, same situation as in this thread.

Please:
If you bought LEDs that were DIY, or if you bought them in the D90.com group buy and you did not use sealed connectors, your LEDs are on borrowed time.

Just FYI.

Thanks,
Mike, ECR

------ Follow up post added August 4th, 2010 11:05 AM ------

Just FYI to all:

Heat shrink is not a sealed connection

There are epoxy lined types of heat shrink tubing that will seal a connection, but just applying standard heat shrink, or connectors with automatic heat shrink will do little to nothing to keep water out.

Heat shrink is designed to keep an electrical circuit from grounding out on something electrically (so the bare wires do not touch some metal or something). It is not a seal.

Thanks.
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  #31  
Old August 4th, 2010, 11:12 AM
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As a boatbuilder and car builder I see this sort of corrosion ALL the time - I also use the adhesive lined connections on EVERYTHING. I use Anchor, Wurth and Electro-term (spelling?) depending who seems to have decent stock when I order 1000 at a time.

If anyone needs a few email me with size and i can send you some. They are NOT cheap but work very well - and i also agree about the soldering and vibration, not a good combo. Also Mike is correct about regular heat shrink, in my opinion it seals worse than good electrical tape.
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  #32  
Old August 4th, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roving Beetle View Post
heat shrink, in my opinion it seals worse than good electrical tape.
I agree 100%.
The only place we use standard heat shrink is if the connection is inside the truck (like wiring a stereo in a dash or something).
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  #33  
Old August 5th, 2010, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roving Beetle View Post
I use Anchor, Wurth and Electro-term (spelling?) depending who seems to have decent stock when I order 1000 at a time.
You need to keep an eye on all these brands as the internal purchasing has been leaning toward Chinese made copies that are remarkably similar in appearance yet do not perform at all as designed. Anchor stopped producing their own fittings after being bought out by Gardener Bender who substituted their hardware store product that wasn't worth a shit. They have since, due to pressure from some retailers who dropped them, gone back to the original source, produced in Michigan.
Wurth had a little wobble in the source, but also switched back. My point is I guess that you have to be carefull (if you care about perfect electrical connections) about what your favorite brand is buying and sticking in their own packages. look for clear colored (adhesive lined) heat shrink tubing on the connectors. If the tubing is translucent be wary.....buy a small package and test. We buy hundreds of thousands of these connections per year for our Marine retail /wholesale store and over the last couple of years it has been a constant pain in the ass to get consistent product. We sell to both the Navy and Coast Guard and they get fairly picky over this.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #34  
Old February 28th, 2011, 03:57 PM
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I'm dragging this back up because I just heard from another person from the group by that made a bad connector choice and his LEDs are failing.
Just hoping more people will see the thread and change their connectors.

Thanks.
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  #35  
Old February 28th, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Here is a link to the type of connectors you want to use in that part of the truck.

http://www.whiteproducts.com/weather_pack.shtml

If you've ever looked at the wiring harness that extends from the ends it's incredible how horribly oxidized the copper wiring is and what a difference a new wire makes even in terms of lighting. This is likely in part from the horrible connectors that exist there now. I would get rid of them all and use these in the back. The front is not so bad.
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  #36  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 08:01 AM
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I'm just looking at the fried circuit board and trying to figure out why the thing rusted out. It appears there is supposed to be something there where the red wire was attached, like a fuse holder or something? Can't tell. So what actually died? aA (steel) fuse holder? It appears all else is in pretty good shape although ugly. Were the CBs dipped in any conformal coating to reduce corrosion? If they were I should think that even if these were submerged in salt water they should still operate OK. Really it's just a few resistors and LEDs breadboarded up. Nothing there to rust AFAICS.

Perhaps future iterations should be potted.

I can understand saying that the poor installation led to the failure. Clearly that is true. Just don't understand the rust. Steel screws?
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  #37  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Its been some time since I cracked one open, but it appears to me that the rust comes from the individual LED units. The "legs" of the LED unit rust out and then the LED unit falls off the circuit board and then rattles around in there.

The unit is completely sealed. I've run them in a bucket of water for long periods to test them. Adding more features would be nice, but will also increase costs, and that seems silly IMO, considering there is no reason for failure, other then installer error.

All of the failures (under 4 so far) have all been from the upper mid-west. I don't know what they put on the roads out there, but it likes to travel up wires.

None of this is an issue unless you use crap connectors from Auto-Zone or some crap. I have these units running around in the salt and muck with many many customers with zero failures, and all we used was the stock Econo-Seal connectors and a little dielectric grease, we didn't even get as fancy as using an epoxy lined connector or anything, and they are all fine.

Since we stopped selling these for "DIY" connector install there have been no reported failures.
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  #38  
Old March 2nd, 2011, 12:12 PM
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I am using this kit right now to rework some wiring. Its a little more time to get it all setup, but in the end, it makes a clean looking install and super easy to take things apart. If you go this route, just make sure to buy the crimper, it really doesnt work with a normal one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by nikojo View Post
Here is a link to the type of connectors you want to use in that part of the truck.

http://www.whiteproducts.com/weather_pack.shtml

If you've ever looked at the wiring harness that extends from the ends it's incredible how horribly oxidized the copper wiring is and what a difference a new wire makes even in terms of lighting. This is likely in part from the horrible connectors that exist there now. I would get rid of them all and use these in the back. The front is not so bad.
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  #39  
Old March 3rd, 2011, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
The "legs" of the LED unit rust out and then the LED unit falls off the circuit board and then rattles around in there.
That just seems wrong. I am no expert but I've never seen an LED with ferrous parts.
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  #40  
Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:09 AM
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That just seems wrong. I am no expert but I've never seen an LED with ferrous parts.
Don't know what to tell you.
Look at the picture I posted of the failed unit. Rust causes the LEDs units to fall off the circuit board. The board stays intact, the clear plastic part of the LED stays intact (now in the bottom of the lamp), but the part that connected it to the circuit board is gone and looks very rusty to me.
The LED unit never really fails completely. Just individual LED lamps stop working making it look funny (because it appears to me they corroded off the board).


Luckily none of this is an issue if you install the lamps with a little care.
Feel free to explore it further if you wish.
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