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  #1  
Old March 6th, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Paul S.
1997 NAS BRG Soft-Top
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Smile 10% Discount for D-90 Source Members

It seems some members are missing out on the discount of our Replacement Rubber Window Channel Kits because the links are buried in another thread, so I thought I would re-post here.

Both kits retail for $89.99 and we’re offering 10% off to D-90 Source members. You can get the 10% discount by using the following links;

Removable Door Top Kit
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/websc...=3CPE38CDY6SK2

Fixed Rear Sliding Window Kit
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/websc...=9CUCVSYC78PXL

Both products come with a 30-Day Complete Satisfaction Guarantee

For more product information, visit us at;
http://www.garrisonoutfitters.com

Thank you,
Paul
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  #2  
Old March 6th, 2012, 04:46 PM
MonLand
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Loic Fabro
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Updated links

Working links are:

Removable Door Top Kit
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/websc...=3CPE38CDY6SK2

Fixed Rear Sliding Window Kit
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/websc...=9CUCVSYC78PXL

(original post is here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...4&postcount=10 )

[I am not related to Garisson Outfitter or Paul]
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  #3  
Old March 6th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Paul S.
1997 NAS BRG Soft-Top
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Thank you sir!
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  #4  
Old March 6th, 2012, 08:25 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I fixed the links in the original post avoid confusion.
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  #5  
Old March 13th, 2012, 11:16 PM
MonLand
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Got the package today, need to drop it off at Charles' with the window frame to get the seals installed!
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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1995 D90 NAS
1996 Discovery NAS
2006 LR3 NAS (hers, but comfy! :) )
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  #6  
Old March 14th, 2012, 08:32 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Oy. Just don't start the job one evening on the kitchen table thinking you have time to get it done when you don't. I don't think I'll get back to it until the weekend, but all I have left is actually install the seals and re-assemble.

Quick question for you Paul - the ST windows I just disassembled had silicone between the main frame and the removable glass track - is this "factory"? I plan on using silicone when I re-assemble unless it's not recommended.
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  #7  
Old March 14th, 2012, 10:04 AM
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Paul S.
1997 NAS BRG Soft-Top
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Charles,

Yes that's factory. My recommendation is to leave it and maybe just touch it up if there was a tear part way along. There should also be silicone around the locking mechanism.

When I was prototyping the product I was planning on including the silicone but it makes a real mess of things. Not sure if they use a fast-curing type at the factory, or if they let it harden partially before assembling, but it retains a thickness that you just can't get from store-bought silicone. I thought it best not to instruct customers to remove it, because once you do, you just can't get it back.

The original silicone beads will have a lot of pressure put back on them when you rivet back in place and you will still have a good seal.

Best regards,
Paul
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  #8  
Old March 14th, 2012, 10:09 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Mine is all cleaned off

I'm assuming install wet and let it cure in place is the ticket - that's my plan anyway
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  #9  
Old March 14th, 2012, 10:14 AM
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Charles take pics
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #10  
Old March 14th, 2012, 10:19 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Sure. I took a few already but will try be better about doing so when re-assembling. I can tell you it's tricky to try keep from scratching things and keeping from getting everything dirty while doing this, let alone take pictures without getting your camera dirty/soapy/siliconed. But let's not keep hijacking this thread. I'll do a writeup once done. I think things like the silicone are good for others to see before starting.
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  #11  
Old March 14th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Joshua
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I'm going to be doing it this weekend, just having trouble picturing what you're talking about with this silicone. My riveter finally came in. Put your camera in a Ziploc bag or something, and then take pics.
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  #12  
Old March 14th, 2012, 10:35 AM
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Charles Galpin
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When you go to remove the latch mechanism and the bottom rail/glass assembly after drilling out the rivets you will see they have silicone behind them at the points where they meet the frame (basically all edges). In my case they did not come off cleanly at all, not that I was trying to preserve it.

Lessons so far:

1. If you are changing studs out at the same time you might as well remove the old ones first (these are bone stock tops in my case). It just makes it easier to handle the frames without the studs.
2. PB Blast the screws in the rail ahead of time just in case - I broke one and had to drill/tap it. Hardest part of the job so far
3. Expect to get aluminum filings everywhere after drilling so don't try too hard to setup a clean environment at first. Use a towel or something to avoid scratching the frame while you work, but you'll need to cleanup the filings before starting to clean out the rails because the filings now become a scratch hazard.
4. As with any rover project you will spend more time cleaning and removing corrosion than anything else and it will take twice as long as expected. I probably have 2 hours in disassembly and cleaning. I ended up removing the studs and bottom rubber strip to remove some oxidation as well.
5. Buy silicone ahead of time if you plan on doing this in one sitting
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  #13  
Old March 14th, 2012, 11:10 AM
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barry f
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It's not so bad. First window took me an hour and the second only 15 minutes from beginning to end. Then again we don't have the corrosion issue in la.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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