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  #21  
Old November 21st, 2008, 03:16 PM
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Byron Straw
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The adjuster called back and said 6,800, yes you read that correctly. He is coming back out to go over some of the things he missed, such as the gas tank, front end, transfer case, transmission, rear under cage bolt holes not lining up any more, steering wheel, tub separated, etc. etc. I am a little upset.
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  #22  
Old November 21st, 2008, 03:32 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Wow, that does seem low. I would wait it out a bit. Our insurance company did the same thing. the first estimate was really low and they kept creeping up as they dug into it more. I think they ended up giving us 4 estimates, with each one getting progressively more expensive before they finally totaled it.
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  #23  
Old November 21st, 2008, 03:33 PM
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barry f
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6800 to fix it? can you bring it anywhere to be fixed? Have the dealer fix it then? Won't the insurance have to pay all the misc they missed?
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  #24  
Old November 21st, 2008, 04:28 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Yeah, unless you want it to be totaled, I would just take it to the shop of your choice, let them start and then they can haggle with the ins. company to get the rest covered. Once they sink $7,000 into it they aren't likely to say no to covering more stuff. If the estimate is too high initially they will just total it and you won't be able to keep a clean title, unless CO operates on an age rule like IL regarding titles.
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  #25  
Old November 21st, 2008, 09:51 PM
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I think that estimate is completely unrealistic and does not reflect the true damage. If it were mine I would make sure I was there when the adjuster arrived to point out all of the issues that you see and let them know what your expectations are for the quality of repair.

Just from the pictures

Complete new rear axle housing, 3rd member rebuild, bearings, brakes, axle and all bushings that attach the housing to the frame

Door skin

Tub side

Trailing arms

Driveshaft

Transfer case

Transfer case mounts / Motor mounts

Frame work

4 new eyebrows since they will not match now

Gas tank skid plate

Sway bar and bushings

Side steps

Shocks (maybe shock mounts)

Springs

Lower finisher panel under door

Not to mention all of the bolts, clips and other little stuff that will add a bunch to the bill.
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  #26  
Old November 21st, 2008, 10:02 PM
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Byron Straw
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Update, The adjuster came back and I was here to point a few things out that he had missed. Yhe new estimate is 23,000. A little better, he said that the only frame he could find was in Australia, and wanted to know if I know how much shipping would be, I just laughed and said A lOT! He is now sending it to the big dogs to see what they think. I will know something by the middle of the week they said.
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  #27  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 02:16 AM
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I wrecked a C2 turbo a couple of years ago and was pushing to have it fixed and they (Progressive) said that if the damage exceeded 90% of any cars value they would total it.

I'm betting the total your truck.
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  #28  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 10:51 AM
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I actually had a 911 Turbo that had gotten hit. I guess I was lucky, as they fixed it, and wrote a check for an additional $5k for depriciation d/t the accident. However, that was 20 years ago. On another note, I would certainly take the $$ if you can fix it yourself( if you have a place to do it, a great experience that will give you total independance, as you will know the workings of the truck intimately). It may actually suit them as they are already seeing the difficulties involved- like a frame from Oz?? Maybe explain that is the tip of the iceburg- ie: cage parts, eyebrows, etc. NLA, and negotiate a little more $$. You get a clean title and a restored 90. If you cannot fix it yourself, you may be better off taking a check for it being totalled, and buy another one with the market like it is currently- even for 90s. Just a thought.
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  #29  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 11:07 AM
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I crunched the rear corner of my d90 in a parking lot, and asked the denver guys for shop recommendations. They recommended SVE autobody in Broomfield. It was really easy with my insurance company. No haggling or anything: I just said that it is a defender and needed to be worked on by an experienced shop (none in my local area), and I basically insisted upon SVE autobody. They did an outstanding job. You might consider that shop if there are not any top notch shops in Ft. Collins.
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  #30  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 02:36 PM
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Craig Dickson
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I also had work done at SVE in Broomfield and they are great. To fix a door and front fender and straitghen out the little strip between the door and fender was $4,500. They delt with my insurance company and took care of everything. The insurnace company valued my truck with over 200,000 miles at $24,000. I have also heard that once the repairs are around 80% to 90% of vlaue they will total it.
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  #31  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 03:12 PM
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Byron Straw
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I would do the work myself. I am just not sure what the best route is to go, I still owe 7,000 on it. Scenario's
1. Total the truck take the money and buy a new one.
2. Total the truck, take the money, buy back the truck and rebuild it. But, if I get 24-28 for the truck, have to buy it back at 5 and need to put 3-7 into it am i really making out? In the end i have a r title rover that is not worth much.
3. Total the truck, buy it back, sell it to someone who want to rebuild it (not for parts, why too much time than I can spare now) use that money and the money from the claim to buy a new one.
4. Not total the truck, get the money to fix it, fix it myself.
5. Why does this have to be so complicated!
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  #32  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 04:18 PM
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Scott
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Here is your answer:

Total the truck, get the check, by back the truck, pay-off the balance then put 10K down on another 90 or a 110.

You live in CO, so build a true trail 90 out of your current truck.
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  #33  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bstraw
2. Total the truck, take the money, buy back the truck and rebuild it. But, if I get 24-28 for the truck, have to buy it back at 5 and need to put 3-7 into it am i really making out? In the end i have a r title rover that is not worth much.
3. Total the truck, buy it back, sell it to someone who want to rebuild it use that money and the money from the claim to buy a new one.
Best two options IMHO.

#2
You get to keep your 90 and you already know all of the little things about it. Just keep in mind that repairs always cost more than you think, every single wreck I have rebuilt always required more stuff once you tear into it.

#3
I am guessing with the money from Ins and selling your 90 that you would have enough to buy another 90 with cash (+ have a little left over) considering the prices right now. If I remember correct you had mentioned wanting a soft top so now might be your chance. Downside is that you are starting with a new rover so you might need to spend a little time / money on it.
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  #34  
Old November 22nd, 2008, 08:07 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90
Here is your answer:

Total the truck, get the check, by back the truck, pay-off the balance then put 10K down on another 90 or a 110.

You live in CO, so build a true trail 90 out of your current truck.
This is what I would do. That's what we did in our situation and so far it's worked out well. Just expect to put a lot of time into rebuilding if you have to swap frames.
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  #35  
Old November 28th, 2008, 12:09 PM
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IMHO, something like this is ideal to ship to ECR or similar IF you can keep the clean title. The ins is paying for a new frame anyway, if they will cut you a check for 23k that gets you a frame, a door and (probably if you ask nice) a take off tub from a BR conversion.
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  #36  
Old November 29th, 2008, 09:53 AM
Eric Siepmann
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Eric W. Siepmann
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What ever you do, do not bring it to a dealer. I had some off road damage repaired. They did awesome work. BUT, they have to use LRNA as their parts source. One, they aren't that bad in price on the things that affected my truck, and two I had to wait six months to get both outer wing panels.

Drive the truck to a shop. Have them handle the adjustor. They will get much more for it. Only problem is that most shops will not even touch Birmabright. Which is how mine ended at the dealer....

You should have been given the report by the adjustor. Cost for hours and material.I bet they do not have a new frame and the time to replace it in the report. I will guess that they will suggest an approved shop with a new laser frame straightening jig.
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  #37  
Old November 29th, 2008, 03:30 PM
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Whether or not an Insurance Company/Adjuster "totals" a
vehicle is purely an economic determination. Most Companies
will write the vehicle off as a "total loss" when the cost to
repair it exceeds 80% of the Actual Cash Value of the vehicle.

Less than 80% and they will elect to have it repaired.

The insured party has absolutely no say in the matter. None whatsoever.

Most Insurance Companies run all their Salvage through contracted
consolidators and auction houses, and no longer allow the insured party
to purchase the salvage directly.

Even in cases where they do, the Title or future Titles may be branded
as Salvage once the State DMV finds out about the wreck. Additionally
with the advent of database firms like CarFax, Experian, etc. even if
the Title escapes branding as "Salvage", the various databases will report
the Accident/Wreckage in Vehicle History they provide to consumers/dealers.

Failure to disclose a major accident to future purchasers will place the seller
at legal jeopardy, even to subsequent owners years in the future.

If you play with fire, eventually you get burned.
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