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  #1  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 04:52 PM
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Wheel bearings

This is for an LR3, therefor I put it in the misc section...
I just replaced my front ps wheel bearing/hub. Should I replace the ds as well thou it doesn't need replacing?

Oh...it's a 2006 w/90k miles...
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  #2  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 04:56 PM
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Mine went about 3k of each other fwiw. Im about to do control arms as Im getting horrible grabbing and thunks on slow hard turns. Id recommend doing hubs and control arms at the same time since you're in there...
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  #3  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 05:07 PM
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Did you do the rears too?
They seem like a b!tch to replace...
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  #4  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 05:22 PM
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Rears are not fun to replace, and, in my experience, they rarely go bad. I don't know how much the part is, but the fronts take about 20 min to replace, so if its cheap, you may as well. Personally, I think you'd be better off replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends, as they fail more often than the wheel bearings. Its also worth noting that the wheel bearings will intermittently have play. I know this sounds crazy, but I've put a bunch of LR3's on the lift and felt no play, then later after driving them or rotating the wheels, they will have play, or vice versa.

I would definitely replace the small bleeder hose to the thermostat housing, as they crack and will leave you stranded. A better option would be to replace the bleeder T section with a brass fitting of some sort. If you take off the upper engine cover you will see what I'm talking about. That is one of the few things that I would do if I bought an LR3, the day I bought it.
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Old March 3rd, 2014, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Rears are not fun to replace, and, in my experience, they rarely go bad. I don't know how much the part is, but the fronts take about 20 min to replace, so if its cheap, you may as well. Personally, I think you'd be better off replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends, as they fail more often than the wheel bearings. Its also worth noting that the wheel bearings will intermittently have play. I know this sounds crazy, but I've put a bunch of LR3's on the lift and felt no play, then later after driving them or rotating the wheels, they will have play, or vice versa. I would definitely replace the small bleeder hose to the thermostat housing, as they crack and will leave you stranded. A better option would be to replace the bleeder T section with a brass fitting of some sort. If you take off the upper engine cover you will see what I'm talking about. That is one of the few things that I would do if I bought an LR3, the day I bought it.
Great info, thanks! Do you think my symptoms are consistent with the control arm bushings? Only in slow speed, hard right or left turns there is a lot of grabbing and thunking. The steering wheel "grabs" on turning...
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  #6  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
Great info, thanks! Do you think my symptoms are consistent with the control arm bushings? Only in slow speed, hard right or left turns there is a lot of grabbing and thunking. The steering wheel "grabs" on turning...
The way I check for control arm bushing failure is by driving through the parking lot and hitting potholes at slow speeds, or tapping the brakes at low speeds. They will make a loud clunk. I've seen them make all sorts of different noises under different conditions, but they all knock at parking lot speeds.

It sounds like your alignment could be way off, which the control arms would affect since the camber and castor adjustment is done though the lower control arm.
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  #7  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 06:05 PM
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Thanks!
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  #8  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Rears are not fun to replace, and, in my experience, they rarely go bad. I don't know how much the part is, but the fronts take about 20 min to replace, so if its cheap, you may as well. Personally, I think you'd be better off replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends, as they fail more often than the wheel bearings. Its also worth noting that the wheel bearings will intermittently have play. I know this sounds crazy, but I've put a bunch of LR3's on the lift and felt no play, then later after driving them or rotating the wheels, they will have play, or vice versa.

I would definitely replace the small bleeder hose to the thermostat housing, as they crack and will leave you stranded. A better option would be to replace the bleeder T section with a brass fitting of some sort. If you take off the upper engine cover you will see what I'm talking about. That is one of the few things that I would do if I bought an LR3, the day I bought it.
This is why I like the D90 Source! Straight up answers!
Thanks Jimmy!
So the front wheel bearings tend to wear out moreso than the rears?
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  #9  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 07:35 PM
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To echo Jimmy, I only did the front bearings on my LR3 when I did the lower control arms & brakes/rotors. I wasn't planning to do the bearings initially, but when I realized (as Jimmy said) it wasn't much more to do the bearings I went ahead with it.

Looked into doing the rears - realized they were going to be an endeavor that required pressing/etc - and decided to skip the rears. I also heard likewise that the rears rarely go bad.
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  #10  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 07:57 PM
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I did just have a friend call me and say he has a rear wheel bearing with play in it, but I can't think of many others I've seen. The only time I have replaced them is when the parking brake shoes come apart and generate so much heat that the grease boils out of the wheel bearing. I've probably only done two in the past six years at Land Rover.
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  #11  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
To echo Jimmy, I only did the front bearings on my LR3 web I did the lower control arms & brakes/rotors. I wasn't planning to do the bearings initially, but when I realized (as Jimmy said) it wasn't much more to do the bearings I went ahead with it.
After following a bunch of guys on the forum with the same issue I did exactly the same as above. I think I got the timken ones from rock auto.
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  #12  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
I did just have a friend call me and say he has a rear wheel bearing with play in it, but I can't think of many others I've seen. The only time I have replaced them is when the parking brake shoes come apart and generate so much heat that the grease boils out of the wheel bearing. I've probably only done two in the past six years at Land Rover.
That's good to know. I like to do repairs myself to save $$$.
The front wheel bearing was easy, I'll go ahead and do the ds.
The inner and outer tie rods were easy as well.

Rover on!
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  #13  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 10:15 PM
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http://landrovermerriamparts.com
These guys had some good prices on genuine parts. Someone else on here said to give them a try, glad I did.
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  #14  
Old March 3rd, 2014, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
http://landrovermerriamparts.com
These guys had some good prices on genuine parts. Someone else on here said to give them a try, glad I did.
x2, I actually used them for my compressor rebuild kit and also some mats for the LR3. Good prices, genuine parts, fast shipping.
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  #15  
Old March 4th, 2014, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Rears are not fun to replace, and, in my experience, they rarely go bad. I don't know how much the part is, but the fronts take about 20 min to replace, so if its cheap, you may as well. Personally, I think you'd be better off replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends, as they fail more often than the wheel bearings. Its also worth noting that the wheel bearings will intermittently have play. I know this sounds crazy, but I've put a bunch of LR3's on the lift and felt no play, then later after driving them or rotating the wheels, they will have play, or vice versa. I would definitely replace the small bleeder hose to the thermostat housing, as they crack and will leave you stranded. A better option would be to replace the bleeder T section with a brass fitting of some sort. If you take off the upper engine cover you will see what I'm talking about. That is one of the few things that I would do if I bought an LR3, the day I bought it.
I just replaced both control arms/bushings but just noticed over the weekend while on some trails, I felt clunking but through the steering wheel. What do you think that might be? Also can you take a picture of the bleeder hose section under the cover? Thanks!!
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  #16  
Old March 5th, 2014, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by goinsurfin View Post
I just replaced both control arms/bushings but just noticed over the weekend while on some trails, I felt clunking but through the steering wheel. What do you think that might be? Also can you take a picture of the bleeder hose section under the cover? Thanks!!
Sway bar bushings maybe? Its tough to tell without actually hearing it or driving it. If it only happens off road I wouldn't be too concerned.





You can just eliminate the bleeder there and install a brass fitting in place. I would suggest not touching it unless you already have a piece to repair it with as they are very brittle.
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