what rock sliders are yall running? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old October 9th, 2006, 11:25 PM
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Ben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewap
Rockware, really HD.
Even after all the warnings from this site about SG, I recently made a large order to give SG the benefit of the doubt. I had to cancel after delays of over three months, many excuses, and the refund became a problem as well, with more excuses and delays. Five months later and an official investigation by my bank/card Co. , SG was made to reimburse me. Nice people though, and always polite. So was I, and I am very patient. But I have never dealt with a Rover gear Co. that treats clients the way they do.
Sorry to hijack the thread. But seeing SG recommendations, I had to vent.
Thank you for telling me this, I don't want to deal with an issue like that when it comes to parts for my rover.
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  #22  
Old October 10th, 2006, 02:52 AM
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Dennis Lynch
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I bought sliders from DAP because I am cheap($225). I think they installed the same way as the Mantec's. They have taken a few hits with no wear so far.
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  #23  
Old October 10th, 2006, 08:00 AM
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I have scorpions from www.4x4ag.com with the nerf bar. I like them
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  #24  
Old October 10th, 2006, 10:03 AM
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Jeff Schnegelberger
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Jim Cirbus in SC made a custom set for my D-90 - check out the pics here http://www.flickr.com/photos/schnegj...7594145786247/
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  #25  
Old October 10th, 2006, 10:46 AM
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Thomas
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I had a friend of mine weld me up some for my D-90. I have yet to put any on the 110. He works for a company that fabricates machinery for the food service industry, so everything they use is stainless steel. He made mine out of .25" stainless steel box. At first i was a little concerned about the strength of the stainless, but as it turns out, they were indestructible. I bashed them many, many times on rocks and trees and they never so much as dented. Plus, no rust. Ever. When they started looking worn, scratched or faded....I touched them up with a nice can of Flat Black Rustoleum, and viola....they looked brand new again.

They attached just like everyone else's sliders do...a tube for the back with a bolt going through it, and a bolt through lip on the front where it attached to the frame. I took pics of a friend's sliders before I built mine (they were Sorry Guards I think) and mine attached the same way. I also fabbed them to stick out a few inches from the body like Buck's. They were awesome.
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  #26  
Old October 10th, 2006, 05:36 PM
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Jake Buinewicz
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I got some Burke Sliders. The previous owner put them on awhile back and they are still straight, even after my constant abuse. They are really solid. Also as Buck said they do stick out a little bit to keep trees away.
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  #27  
Old October 10th, 2006, 09:23 PM
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Hey,

Not to hyjack this tread too much, but what size bolts do you guys use through the rear tube portion? The roll-over started to crack the area that I welded and I want to put a bolt through there as insurance. I am guessing 1/2, 3/8 or 7/16?? Thanks
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  #28  
Old December 5th, 2006, 03:37 PM
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Loic Fabro
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I built my sliders (with nerf bar as they seem to be called). Mine have two attachment points. I did not get to use them yet, so.... I hope they will hold! :-) I used angle iron for the slider part, some much thinner boxed steel cut in half for the "nice" part just under the door (wanted to keep the stock look). https://d90rox.kicks-ass.org/rockrails/
So far, I have only jacked the truck up with them (as much as necessary to get two wheels above the ground). But I assume that this be slightly different when I wheel with them.

I saw pics of the one JimC builds/sells and they look very nice (4 attachment points). (not sure if JimC is willing to put his on public display, so.... I'll let him share the pics with you! :-) )
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  #29  
Old December 5th, 2006, 06:28 PM
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kevin
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I have Ghetto Fab sliders. Made in my driveway because I was too cheap to drop the $$. Plus I cant find anyone who makes them for a D130. They do the job they are asked to do and don't complain. Cost was about $30 for material.
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  #30  
Old December 6th, 2006, 10:08 AM
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Marc
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Pretty clean! very sweet. I should learn how to weld..
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  #31  
Old December 6th, 2006, 11:37 AM
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Andrew
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Welded up my own ones last spring along with a read tank skid plate/cradle (added a rear tank to the 90 cause it has a side tank but no rear). It was my first DIY welding project and alot of fun
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  #32  
Old December 6th, 2006, 12:52 PM
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Steven Schubach made mine.

I think they're 2"x3."

I had him move them out a bit so I could use them as a step to get into my roof rack, which was sold to McGyver007. The best part about them is they're mounted on the front outrigger in two spots to prevent both rolling a pitching. Something that I think many sliders don't address. As with most it also utilizes the rear frame tube.
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  #33  
Old December 6th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Phillip
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I wonder about those nerf bars creating leverage and "folding up"....
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  #34  
Old December 6th, 2006, 05:54 PM
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Ben
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I'm buying used SG sliders that double as airtanks from a club member and we're welding on nerf bars
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  #35  
Old December 6th, 2006, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needsaD110
I'm buying used SG sliders that double as airtanks from a club member and we're welding on nerf bars
Caveat Emptor.

A friend of mine bought and used these. He said the rolled quite a bit and as a result his doors were damaged. He corrected it by welding some supports to the outrigger. So while you're adding those nerf bars you might want to consider modifing the front mount too.
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  #36  
Old December 6th, 2006, 07:59 PM
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Jim C.
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I folded my SG (non-heavy duty) units up into the body at the tub and bulkhead. After studying the failure points, I decided to add two outriggers so that a tube step wouldn't provide a fulcrum to enhance the flex of the mounts. The most recent pair were TIG welded, with the step being as close as possible to the body. In retrospect, the step is too close to be of good use, so I'm going back to the design I built for Jeff.

Jim
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  #37  
Old December 6th, 2006, 08:44 PM
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Matt VA
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RockWare uses heavy gage tubular steel and are very familiar with Rovers. The mounting is directly to the chasis and ends tapered to please the eye. You can tell them what you want and they'll build it to last. Can't see how you can improve their design.
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  #38  
Old December 6th, 2006, 09:06 PM
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Ben
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I think they are HD sliders but I could be wrong, I know he wheeled his d-90 alot and had somethin like 6' lift and 36's so it was wheeled hard. I've seen them slide over something and all it did was scratch up the bottom
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  #39  
Old December 6th, 2006, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needsaD110
I think they are HD sliders but I could be wrong, I know he wheeled his d-90 alot and had somethin like 6' lift and 36's so it was wheeled hard. I've seen them slide over something and all it did was scratch up the bottom
6 feet of lift!! Sounds like he needs bigger tires.

Just messing with you, but, be sure that you open up the air valve before you weld to the bars. If you weld with a perfect seal you can expand air in the tube possibly too far. Might just be an urban legend, but hey.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #40  
Old December 7th, 2006, 08:53 AM
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No legend... don't ask me how I know. ;-)
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