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  #41  
Old September 19th, 2015, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
Bah!!!! Well I'm not buying rubber that isn't Genuine but I didn't think there actually was Genuine anymore? You guys have a Genuine bushing kit?
Of course
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  #42  
Old September 19th, 2015, 10:37 AM
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The genuine bushings are not anywhere near the quality they once were.
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  #43  
Old September 19th, 2015, 11:17 AM
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Still better than aftermarket
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  #44  
Old September 19th, 2015, 11:53 AM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
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The genuine bushings are not anywhere near the quality they once were.
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Still better than aftermarket
The real question is "are they still better than Polybushes? ". Some say yes, some say no.
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  #45  
Old September 19th, 2015, 12:17 PM
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The real question is "are they still better than Polybushes? ". Some say yes, some say no.
The problem with the question is there are many brands of poly bushes and they are not all created equal.
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  #46  
Old September 21st, 2015, 09:09 PM
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Seeing this thread made me think of this. Or seeing this made me think of this thread

Canadian entrepreneur finds international success selling firewood for $1000 per bundle - Home | This is That with Pat Kelly and Peter Oldring | CBC Radio
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  #47  
Old September 21st, 2015, 09:09 PM
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Seeing this thread made me think of this. Or seeing this made me think of this thread

Canadian entrepreneur finds international success selling firewood for $1000 per bundle - Home | This is That with Pat Kelly and Peter Oldring | CBC Radio
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  #48  
Old September 21st, 2015, 09:27 PM
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I've always heard poly bushes are generally a no-no. According to a GM publication they aren't recommended because "polyurethane bushings can cause additional binding, which can lead to erratic suspension behavior."

Someone on a Z28 forum says,

"Polyurethane and its variations (like poly graphite) have no business being used in any rotational bushing application. This means leaf springs, a-arms, trailing arms, strut rods ect...

The basic reasons are:

1) A rubber a-arm bushing does not rotate in the mount. Rather the movement comes from the rubber flexing between 2 metal sleeves as the a-arm travels up and down. This is evident if you remove the springs from a rubber-bushing car while it is in the air. The a-arms do not drop.
With a poly bushing there is no flex (or metal sleeves for that matter) so it is forced to rotate in the seat. The problem is that the rotation is not a clean motion. It’s jerky, and inconsistent. The squeak is a symptom of suspension bind, but just because you don't hear it does not mean that there is no bind

2) Over time all Polyurethane goes through what is called "cold flow". Without getting into the chemistry, the urethane bushings are more of a very dense gel than a solid compound. Over time rotational bushings go from a round shape to more of an oblong egg shape. Needless to say this is a bad thing."

Hopefully they won't cause you problems, but I'm sticking with the OEM rubber. LRDirect often has a "Branded (OEM)" option for the genuine parts, which are usually less than the LR branded parts.
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  #49  
Old September 21st, 2015, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
I've always heard poly bushes are generally a no-no. According to a GM publication they aren't recommended because "polyurethane bushings can cause additional binding, which can lead to erratic suspension behavior." Someone on a Z28 forum says, "Polyurethane and its variations (like poly graphite) have no business being used in any rotational bushing application. This means leaf springs, a-arms, trailing arms, strut rods ect... The basic reasons are: 1) A rubber a-arm bushing does not rotate in the mount. Rather the movement comes from the rubber flexing between 2 metal sleeves as the a-arm travels up and down. This is evident if you remove the springs from a rubber-bushing car while it is in the air. The a-arms do not drop. With a poly bushing there is no flex (or metal sleeves for that matter) so it is forced to rotate in the seat. The problem is that the rotation is not a clean motion. It’s jerky, and inconsistent. The squeak is a symptom of suspension bind, but just because you don't hear it does not mean that there is no bind 2) Over time all Polyurethane goes through what is called "cold flow". Without getting into the chemistry, the urethane bushings are more of a very dense gel than a solid compound. Over time rotational bushings go from a round shape to more of an oblong egg shape. Needless to say this is a bad thing." Hopefully they won't cause you problems, but I'm sticking with the OEM rubber. LRDirect often has a "Branded (OEM)" option for the genuine parts, which are usually less than the LR branded parts.
Name one rotational mount on a defender?

The bushings are sleeved anyway so it's irrelevant anyway.
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  #50  
Old September 21st, 2015, 10:08 PM
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That's true. Poly will probably at least make things feel less comfy.
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  #51  
Old September 21st, 2015, 10:16 PM
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I've been running my bottom of the barrel orange poly bushes all around and they have been great for the last 2 years.

Dirt cheap, on sale, and no problems.

I've only heard one story anecdotally of poly bushes that were too soft basically squishing out of the socket, but that's about it.
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  #52  
Old September 21st, 2015, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chip View Post
They're still going to move and rotate a little bit. Poly will probably at least make things feel less comfy.
You should try them. You might be surprised. They come in multiple compounds so you can choose more compliant, firm or somewhere in between.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #53  
Old September 21st, 2015, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
You should try them. You might be surprised. They come in multiple compounds so you can choose more compliant, firm or somewhere in between.
Okay, hopefully the rubber ones will last 20 years. Then I can try poly.
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  #54  
Old September 21st, 2015, 11:13 PM
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Hi guys I order from MUD UK if they don't have it they will get it for me.
Great guys and well aren't all Land Rover people.
They have a 20% off deal right now.

MUD UK
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  #55  
Old September 21st, 2015, 11:19 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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I've had VERY bad experience with "OEM branded" bushings. Tell me, what exactly does "OEM branded" mean and to what quality standards are they built? Is the rubber compound the same as Genuine and is the production QC the same?
I went with the Britpart because my used RTE panhard rod came with a yellow BritPart polyurethane bushing installed on the axle end. It's lasted perfectly for the last 2 years and has outlasted the 3 heims on the chassis end.

The people that poo poo polyurethane bushings usually haven't tried them.
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  #56  
Old September 21st, 2015, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
I've had VERY bad experience with "OEM branded" bushings. Tell me, what exactly does "OEM branded" mean and to what quality standards are they built? Is the rubber compound the same as Genuine and is the production QC the same?
I went with the Britpart because my used RTE panhard rod came with a yellow BritPart polyurethane bushing installed on the axle end. It's lasted perfectly for the last 2 years and has outlasted the 3 heims on the chassis end.

The people that poo poo polyurethane bushings usually haven't tried them.
It means made by the company who supplies them to Land Rover. They have "G" on the end of the part number for genuine. I guess if they don't hold up they can always be swapped out.
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  #57  
Old September 21st, 2015, 11:34 PM
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I just read the CBC report on 1000 wood, LOL leave it to a Canadian to over charge.
I just hope he is paying tax, or buying Defender parts, pound to the CDN is double.
I have the after market polys in mine and she rights stiff.
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  #58  
Old September 21st, 2015, 11:42 PM
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It's good you guys with poly bushes have had good experiences, but a lot of people have had bad experiences too. Searching online I found lots pictures of poly bushes that crumbled apart pretty quick. The original rubber often lasts a very long time so I don't see a compelling reason to switch to poly. The ones I'm currently replacing are probably original, so 20 years old, and still look pretty good.
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  #59  
Old September 22nd, 2015, 12:08 AM
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I replaced all my bushings with PolyBush, and stainless hardware. A4-80 (316 stainless steel) bolts, which are the equivalent of 8.8 mild steel bolts

YRM is now supplying these.

Defender - YRM Metal Solutions

Everything came in PolyBush brand bags. I went with the dynamic (orange) flavour, which definitely have a more firm ride, but are not overly harsh. so far, I'm pretty happy with them.
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  #60  
Old September 22nd, 2015, 12:23 AM
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Not 12 hours fitted no road time, not a nice thing to see first thing in the morning before my third coffee

these where in Ploybush branded bags, but had been sitting in my airconed machine shop for about year.
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