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  #21  
Old October 13th, 2004, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
And don't the K&N filters have a nut welded to the end to make them easier to take on and off.
Yeah, the nut does help to loosen and tighten it, but they are still a beast to pre-fill and get started on the threading. Too slippery and I keep dropping them. Hilarity Ensues.

-Hans
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  #22  
Old October 13th, 2004, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
Yeah, the nut does help to loosen and tighten it, but they are still a beast to pre-fill and get started on the threading. Too slippery and I keep dropping them. Hilarity Ensues.

-Hans
Ahh yes, I agree totaly, the K&Ns are hard to hold, I use the Frams they are much easier to install. Do you bring the fiter in from the top? I always bring them in from bottom, you get more oil on yourself but it is much easier.
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  #23  
Old October 13th, 2004, 08:24 PM
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I push the filter up from underneath, but it's that little sideways tip that makes it messy. The vertical filters was something I always appreciated with Chevy 350's.

The only reason I even use the K&N as opposed to the Fram is because RoversNorth makes such a big deal about the backcheck valves and I can't tell if the Fram has one or not.

-Hans
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  #24  
Old October 15th, 2004, 05:35 PM
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Hey hans,

That's a good Norwegian name you got there. The Frams suck, if I remember correctly they don't and that will lead to more dry starts. You get them anyway because of the setup of the engine but without the checkvalve its worse.

I read an article that tested the different oil filters (I'll post the link if I remember when I get home) the fram performed the worst and its design was the worst. So not only is there no checkvalve its also a poor design, except for the nice black end that gives you a chance to really get a hold of it.
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  #25  
Old October 15th, 2004, 06:18 PM
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I second that comment about the Frams. We had been having some sludge problems with our Disco, and I replaced the rockers and cleaned the valve covers and sump, then I bought the Fram oil filters because I figured I would only run the car for a few hundred miles before changing the oil again (with Marvel Mystery Oil in it). I used the Fram and during the first day of driving it, the oil pressure light started to flicker. I heard about the Frams being bad and changed the oil just a few days later. Put a K&N on and now I have no more flickering. Seems to run really good now.
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  #26  
Old October 24th, 2005, 05:56 PM
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Here's a little tip for removing oil filters that I learned from my Disco-driving friend, Sean.

Instead of trying to impale your old filter with a screwdriver when you can't find your filter wrench, try this:

1. Take a peice of nylon webbing about 1-2' long. You say you don't have some webbing lying around? Shame on you! Do you have a dog leash? They're usually made from webbing.

2. Wrap the webbing around your old filter. Now, take a pair of pliers and grab the two ends of the webbing with the pliers.

3. Twist the pliers until the webbing is wrapped around the pliers nicely and is very tight around the filter. Now, use the pliers like a cam to unscrew your filter!
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  #27  
Old October 27th, 2005, 12:10 PM
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Or you could
a) put your tools away neatly so you can find them

or

b) buy a filter wrench that will work on exactly the same principal.

Oil changes are messy enough without going about them in a half a**ed way.
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  #28  
Old October 27th, 2005, 12:15 PM
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Or you go over your moms and dads place and steal your dads oil filter wrench that happens to be the right size
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  #29  
Old October 27th, 2005, 03:04 PM
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I've found the oil doesn't come out as fast if you leave everything on the top plugged up. Leave the cap on, dipstick in and everything. If you open it up on the top end, BIG difference. Overflowed my funnel last time I tried taking the cap off to change the oil.

I still keep telling myself I am going to get one of those FRAM things that have the drain hose, but I never do. Kinda like that brass coolant plug that 's still sitting in a box somewhere because it's too much work to get the remains of the old plastic one off.

-Hans
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  #30  
Old October 27th, 2005, 06:04 PM
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A good majority of filters have a check valve its nothing but a peice of rubber around the outside holes. If you are still not sure blow into the center if its tighter than a nats ass yer good to go!
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  #31  
Old October 28th, 2005, 08:02 AM
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My last oil change was pretty not oily (I still needed latex gloves to take the drain out though). I have a southdown skidplate that is situated such that it catchs half the oil that comes out of the sump (at least it did last time, and I had oil dripping onto the ground from everywhere).
This time I cut the bottom off a milk jug, and put that up as my funnel from the sump. Worked pretty damn good. Next time I need to try the 'drain the filter' trick for a really not-so-messy attempt.
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