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  #1  
Old October 9th, 2014, 08:32 AM
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Tdi freeze plugs

How hard to replace in situ?
I've taken one out for a block heater but never put one in...

what this crappy iphone picture should show is the freez plug weeping coolant---looks like it is corroded?
I know they're not very thick but does every thing on a Rover have to rust/corrode?
The plug is completely seated; it's leaking through the plug.


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  #2  
Old October 9th, 2014, 09:08 PM
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Pull it out and install another block heater?
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  #3  
Old October 9th, 2014, 10:28 PM
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  #4  
Old October 9th, 2014, 10:50 PM
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8 oz. container of K-Seal (follow the directions).
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  #5  
Old October 10th, 2014, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
8 oz. container of K-Seal (follow the directions).
Ummm....no.


JB Weld is a better idea...

Maybe the 2nd block heater is ideal...the 1st one is bone dry.


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  #6  
Old October 10th, 2014, 02:30 PM
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There are expanding block plugs designed for just such an issue where you cant access to tap one in straight.
Especially usefull where there may be some rust pitting on the block edges.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...0290/C0142.oap
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  #7  
Old October 10th, 2014, 03:01 PM
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Bingo---Uncle Doug FTMFW.
Thanks.

I dont want to pour some sealer shit in the motor when I can clearly find the source of the leak.


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  #8  
Old October 10th, 2014, 03:17 PM
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I used jb weld on a truck 7 years ago still no leaks
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no thanks whatever I tell you, you will low ball me
I would rather keep the parts in storage
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  #9  
Old October 10th, 2014, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Bingo---Uncle Doug FTMFW.



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  #10  
Old October 10th, 2014, 04:07 PM
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I keep one of those rubber expando plugs in the cubby box for emergencies. That said, I wouldn't consider anything like that to be a permanent fix. The freeze plugs are pretty easy to access, and the manifolds are not hard to remove. I would change it.

Though, maybe after uwharrie...
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  #11  
Old October 10th, 2014, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I keep one of those rubber expando plugs in the cubby box for emergencies. That said, I wouldn't consider anything like that to be a permanent fix. The freeze plugs are pretty easy to access, and the manifolds are not hard to remove. I would change it.

Though, maybe after uwharrie...
Well, after a quick trip around town... $3.69 for the rubber plugger, and my machine shop guy gave me a plug for free from the parts box.
My original pulled for the heater in the pic.
I'll pop the rubber one for convenience, and eventually plan on replacing it and the middle plug(which will undoubtedly spring a leak next month) in the future.
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  #12  
Old October 10th, 2014, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
I keep one of those rubber expando plugs in the cubby box for emergencies. That said, I wouldn't consider anything like that to be a permanent fix. The freeze plugs are pretty easy to access, and the manifolds are not hard to remove. I would change it.

Though, maybe after uwharrie...
I really think Jeff looking for the "lazy ass" way to "jerry-rig" this repair.
Sealant, JB Weld (good luck with adhesion of 2 different expansive metals with an epoxy glue on an external, almost clean, surface), or the old "rubber plug" trick are as you state, are only temporary fixes.

Repairing it properly with a new ERC4996 (my last one was actually purchased at my local LR dealership) is easily done, like you say, removing a few easily accessible manifold bolts.

So by doing the "rubber plug" & then doing the correct job later results in loosing your engine block coolant twice.
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  #13  
Old October 10th, 2014, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
I really think Jeff looking for the "lazy ass" way to "jerry-rig" this repair.
Sealant, JB Weld (good luck with adhesion of 2 different expansive metals with an epoxy glue on an external, almost clean, surface), or the old "rubber plug" trick are as you state, are only temporary fixes.
Yes Vitton, considering the money I just spent putting a 300Tdi and ZF in a 21 year old LWB, I just cant justify more than $5.00 at this point in time.
Go back to the Smart car forums.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
So by doing the "rubber plug" & then doing the correct job later results in loosing your engine block coolant twice.
Who said I'll lose any coolant?
Do they not have buckets where you live?


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  #14  
Old October 10th, 2014, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Yes Vitton, considering the money I just spent putting a 300Tdi and ZF in a 21 year old LWB, I just cant justify more than $5.00 at this point in time.
Go back to the Smart car forums.


Who said I'll lose any coolant?
Do they not have buckets where you live?


.
PS Jeff, When you DO get around to fixing it properly, there is no "seated" seat (as you mention in post #1) that the plug sits against when installed, if you push enough the plug will go into the block. The best one can try to obtain is a uniform recessed surface of block material around the newly installed "freeze cup"

I use some Permatex# 2 VERY sparingly around the edge of the new freeze cup, others opt for a completely dry insertion.
Also I can see that with only $5 to spend the K-Seal , even if used properly, was outside of your budget.


------ Follow up post added October 10th, 2014 03:41 PM ------

Jeff, Here's some pictures of Smart 4x4's in action, see if you can spot me

https://www.google.com/search?q=smar...ed=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
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  #15  
Old October 10th, 2014, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
PS Jeff, When you DO get around to fixing it properly, there is no "seated" seat (as you mention in post #1) that the plug sits against when installed, if you push enough the plug will go into the block. The best one can try to obtain is a uniform recessed surface of block material around the newly installed "freeze cup"
10-4
I meant *seated* as in it was in its proper position, but I know what you mean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
I use some Permatex# 2 VERY sparingly around the edge of the new freeze cup, others opt for a completely dry insertion.
How much will that cost me?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post
Jeff, Here's some pictures of Smart 4x4's in action, see if you can spot me

https://www.google.com/search?q=smar...ed=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
Thanks for the link, Viton.
Is that you stepping out of the purple/silver one?
Nice legs if it is...


BTW, I plan on fixing this proper like when I have time...

.
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  #16  
Old October 10th, 2014, 07:25 PM
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And now for a short training film
You can do this with the engine in place just use a socket & turn you 2lb hammer sideways & tap it.

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  #17  
Old October 10th, 2014, 07:46 PM
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Now Jeff, when you are ready & can't get your LWB warm enough inside in the winter, we can discuss building higher temperature thermostats.
This is an advanced class.
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  #18  
Old October 11th, 2014, 07:47 AM
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Jeff ... call me I think I may have a few spares. I had a hard time getting them to seal properly when I rebuilt my 300.
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  #19  
Old October 11th, 2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
Jeff ... call me I think I may have a few spares. I had a hard time getting them to seal properly when I rebuilt my 300.
ha- I left you a message yesterday!

.
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  #20  
Old October 16th, 2014, 07:15 PM
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Zack at RN is sending me a jenyoowhine freeze plug BUT Capt Milks had some in stock!
Old one took 45 mins to carefully extract.
Put the new one in the freezer this morning so it could shrink and it went right in with a smear of the Capt's blue hylomar.

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