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  #21  
Old December 19th, 2011, 11:36 AM
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Too big though, IMO. They do not turn down very far either. You'll kill a propane tank in a couple of hours. How badly insulated is this garage? 45000 btu-h should be tons. 1 hour in my garage and -30 is fine to get everything toasty warm.
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  #22  
Old December 19th, 2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Too big though, IMO. They do not turn down very far either. You'll kill a propane tank in a couple of hours. How badly insulated is this garage? 45000 btu-h should be tons. 1 hour in my garage and -30 is fine to get everything toasty warm.
ZERO inslulation! It's about 400sqft.
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  #23  
Old December 19th, 2011, 11:45 AM
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If you're only heating 400sqft, a 35,000btu unit should be just fine.
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  #24  
Old December 19th, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
ZERO inslulation! It's about 400sqft.
Well, you are just trying to heat the world then. My 1500 sqft house only has a 65000 btu-h furnace, in Canada....

Also, I should note that big heater will require a larger tank as a 20 lb tank won't be able to vapourize fast enough.
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  #25  
Old December 19th, 2011, 11:54 AM
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Didn't realize you had moved into base housing. Sell the McMansion ?
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  #26  
Old December 19th, 2011, 11:55 AM
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In my last unheated and huge shop I ran a 200K BTU ready heater salamander. This model ran on diesel, jet, and kero. Being able to run diesel is great as it's easy to get fuel and dyed diesel is fairly cheap. They do need power (115V) to run the fan but they burn very clean and they kick out some freaking heat. The thermostatic control is nice as you can leave it on and it turns on and off automatically to maintain temp. Only downside is the thing sounds like a jet taking off and puts out CO. I could run mine with the door open and it was still warm.

Mine was about 300 bucks on craigslist (brand new) but I see them all the time for 100-300. Try and get a thermostatically controlled one with electronic ignition, they work great.
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  #27  
Old December 19th, 2011, 12:00 PM
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I dunno, a snow machine suit or carhart insulated overalls go a long way keeping you comfortable. The only issue I have working in the cold is my hands getting cold from holding tools and supporting my weight. A small heater to take the chill off and warm my paws is better for me than trying to warm the entire space up to t shirt temps. Alternately, a small area like the inside of a vehicle or even a corner warm up room made of sheet plastic can be all you need. I also use those Mechanix gloves as they give me pretty good control and keep the numbness away for longer.
Air tools allow you to get the nut off the bolt all the way without having to turn it with your fingers.
A Stanley Thermos full of tomato soup helps too.
What I can't stand is snow or other forms of freeze gumming up the works. If there's water involved, and you have to wait for it to thaw, then of course you want a big heater...
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  #28  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Here's the one I ended up getting. 9-30k BTUs. It should at least take the chill out of the air.
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  #29  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Here's the one I ended up getting. 9-30k BTUs. It should at least take the chill out of the air.
That should be fine. I also agree with Bill's response about the coveralls.

Also when you put your front wing mounted exhaust on you can put fins on it like a radiator and that should help as well.. Merry Christmas
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  #30  
Old December 22nd, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
Here's the one I ended up getting. 9-30k BTUs. It should at least take the chill out of the air.
Should be fine.

Almost as much output as the heater in my 90.
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