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  #1  
Old January 12th, 2010, 03:09 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Sheet metal terminology and [hand] tools

I'm drawing a blank and google isn't helping. I want to join two sheets of aluminum with an overlapping joint, but want to make a slight lip on one sheet so when the other overlaps the sheets stay flush. So

1. What is this bend called - an offset?

2. What tool is used to create it? I'm assuming some sort of roller.

3. Is there a hand tool that can do the same? I want to do this on an old roof which is aluminum and has a curved profile. It's going to be a one off, so I don't want to invest in any fancy tools.

thanks,
charles
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  #2  
Old January 12th, 2010, 04:00 PM
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Countersunk or flush lap joint. http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/metal...al-Joints.html
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Old January 12th, 2010, 04:02 PM
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near the bottom of the page is the die to do that.

http://www.eastwood.com/metal-fabric...ad-roller.html

Eric
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  #4  
Old January 12th, 2010, 04:04 PM
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Joggle or jogging tool

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joggle_bending
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...joggletool.php
http://www.averytools.com/pc-233-70-...ggle-tool.aspx
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  #5  
Old January 12th, 2010, 04:06 PM
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Aah, the lap joint joggle tool seems to be what I am after!

Thanks guys!
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Old January 12th, 2010, 04:07 PM
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here are the tools to do it the cheap(er) way:

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=...&p=Q&ts=custom

haven't tried any of them myself.




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near the bottom of the page is the die to do that.

http://www.eastwood.com/metal-fabric...ad-roller.html

Eric
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Old January 12th, 2010, 04:14 PM
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That panel flanger was what I originally expected to find. But for $2 more I think the roller style one would give a better result and be easier to do. Has anyone used these hand tools? I'll se if someone local has a fancy roller tool first but expect I'll be doing it by hand.
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Old January 12th, 2010, 05:23 PM
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You can see there are fairly low cost pneumatic ones. That might be the easiest.
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  #9  
Old January 12th, 2010, 06:06 PM
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I use a pneumatic one from Harbor Freight. Something like $30 I think.

Ahhhh, here they are: http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...nger&Submit=Go

HF tools are suspect, obviously, but for $30 or $40 it's worth a try. Mine works for the little I use it. Doing restoration requires me to butt weld, so I don't use it that much unless the back side of the panel is hidden.
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  #10  
Old January 12th, 2010, 06:09 PM
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Something like this?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66370

They seem to only have a set thickness they work with. Not sure how thick the aluminum is offhand but will measure.
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Old January 12th, 2010, 06:49 PM
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Not necessarily a set thickness, but it has a maximum. Aluminum is much softer, so it should do Rover panels pretty easily. What are you going to use it on?
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Old January 13th, 2010, 08:23 AM
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This is to form a lip on a cut-in-half series roof, so I can join it to another cut-in-half series roof.
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Old January 13th, 2010, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
This is to form a lip on a cut-in-half series roof, so I can join it to another cut-in-half series roof.
Are you going to rivet the two together? Or is your plan to attempt to use your MIG? That flanger is plenty good for the thin roof metal.
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Old January 13th, 2010, 09:24 AM
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Glue/rivet. Should be right on par with the rest of the custruction.

Maybe try enlist Mat M. to help tig the ribs if those joints look like crap. I also have to deal with the supports underneath. Depending on where they fall, I might need to remove and add them back at different locations, and it would be nice to fake some spot welds for those instead of rivetting, but too early to tell.

I get the dimensions sorted out this weekend when I weld up the drip rail, and will have a better idea then.

As far as the crimp goes, ideally the crimp will be exactly the same thickness as the aluminum sheet, and I don't see how you can control that with the pneumatic one.
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Old January 30th, 2010, 07:21 PM
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Just FYI I ended up buying one of the vice grip style panel flangers from eastwood since the roller kind were not rated for the thickness I have (although I am sure the aluminum being softer than steel would have been ok), and I have sharp corners to deal with. Worked great.
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  #16  
Old January 30th, 2010, 11:34 PM
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Charles, FYI, my metal brake is 40" - bigger than I thought.
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  #17  
Old January 31st, 2010, 11:19 AM
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Damn, that might be good enough for a nose box so I might take you up on that! Once I cut my front tub piece I'll know how much I have left over and might try do a nose box out of the remainder. I have tested TIG welding and it's doable that thick.

I haven't called around yet, but need to find someplace to help me do my long bends and bend up a new end piece for the cap.
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