Series 88" roof dimensions - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 29th, 2009, 12:35 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Series 88" roof dimensions

Could anyone with a series hardtop roof handy let me know how long it is? Verifying the width would be handy too. I'm hoping it close to 84" or longer so I can use one as a cap on a trailer made out of a 109" tub.

TIA,
charles
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  #2  
Old July 29th, 2009, 12:40 PM
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Same width as a D90/D110 top.
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Old July 29th, 2009, 12:42 PM
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Yeah that's what I expected for the width. Now how about the length people? I googled but couldn't find it.
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Old July 29th, 2009, 12:53 PM
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I can measure tonight.
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Old July 29th, 2009, 01:34 PM
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80"L x 58"W
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  #6  
Old July 29th, 2009, 01:44 PM
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Fantastic Chris, thanks!

OK, just so I'm not making any mistakes here (I am dealing with two things I have not seen yet, one never really seen in person) does this sound like a reasonable plan?

I have a 109" tub that I suspect I'll cap off the front end to be square, giving me a tub of about 84" long.

I want to make a top/cap out of the 88" roof. Given the rear will need modifying anyway to get rid of the rear door curve, I figure I can make a rounded end piece that extends the roof another 4" by the time it hits the bottom. Even slanted would work I guess, but not sure it would look right.

The alternative is find a longer roof (109 or 110?) and shorten it, although this doesn't solve the rear door fix needed.

Thoughts?

thanks,
charles
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  #7  
Old July 29th, 2009, 02:31 PM
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Why not keep a rear door and make sides for it (either fabbed up or by using two sets of 88in sides welded together? Or, if you want shorter sides or no sides, rather than fill the top, just shorten the rear door to whatever height you need? As far as the 4 inches, I would just put a filler strip on the front of the tub to close it off and line up the roof as normal in the rear.
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Old July 29th, 2009, 02:36 PM
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Jeff I"m making a trailer. What are your plans for the rear of the top (the door arch).

Ron, the roof will fit on top of the tub just like in Jeff's photos. I have attached a picture of the general look I am going for.

As far as length goes, there are probably more options up front if I am willing to alter the tub. The tub has a bulkhead of sorts where the seats would lean back into, and that is short than 80" so I could angle the front of the tub a little or something too.

I guess I could make a extension to a tailgate to fill the door top gap as well. So many options

I think I need to start a build thread, but I don't have either part yet!

charles
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  #9  
Old July 29th, 2009, 02:52 PM
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I see now. That looks pretty easy to make. For the rear, just cut down a rear door to the height you need rather than fill the back of the top. If you want the top to open, just hinge one side or the front.
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  #10  
Old July 29th, 2009, 02:56 PM
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Are you sure it won't sit on top? I'm told the tub is 60.5 to the outside and the rails are 2" so the inner hole would be 56.5 leaving 3/4" overlap on the sides.

I plan on hinging to the front Ron. Check out this trailer build, which I would love to steal ideas from for both the top and it's slide out kitchen.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech...r-build-3.html

For the rear door I was initially thinking a drop down tailgate, but maybe a cut down SW door is the way to go and make it hinge sideways which would make it easier to reach into the center of the tub and I could even do a rear swing out tire carrier if I wanted to go crazy (although the weight distribution may not allow it).
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  #11  
Old July 29th, 2009, 04:10 PM
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Thanks Jeff.

Yes that's not as good a fit as I has expected. Food for thought, but I guess a strap would do.

Would it be asking too much for an inside shot of the roof? I'm wondering what the ribs look like and how hard it would be to section the thing and add a couple inches down the center.

thanks,
charles
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  #12  
Old July 29th, 2009, 04:49 PM
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just a thought, i know the idea of using an existing roof is fun and all, but they are also not exactly known for being water tight. especially the series variety. all mine have leaked at least a little. just a thought.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Thanks Jeff.

Yes that's not as good a fit as I has expected. Food for thought, but I guess a strap would do.

Would it be asking too much for an inside shot of the roof? I'm wondering what the ribs look like and how hard it would be to section the thing and add a couple inches down the center.

thanks,
charles
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  #13  
Old July 29th, 2009, 05:08 PM
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I am sure they can be waterproofed with epoxy on the seams or something.

I would like to be able to make some sort of lockable top and it makes sense to keep the rover theme so the roof seemed a natural fit. But I'm open to any and all ideas.
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  #14  
Old July 29th, 2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Jeff I"m making a trailer. What are your plans for the rear of the top (the door arch).

Ron, the roof will fit on top of the tub just like in Jeff's photos. I have attached a picture of the general look I am going for.

As far as length goes, there are probably more options up front if I am willing to alter the tub. The tub has a bulkhead of sorts where the seats would lean back into, and that is short than 80" so I could angle the front of the tub a little or something too.

I guess I could make a extension to a tailgate to fill the door top gap as well. So many options

I think I need to start a build thread, but I don't have either part yet!

charles
I cry plagarism. I sent you that picture and idea ! fwiw Not sure if you have ever looked @ Janeys roof- mine is stamped 109 just before the bend on top of the ribs. I have a source for the rounded Double cab/pickup roof rear edge.
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  #15  
Old July 29th, 2009, 09:57 PM
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Let's call it collaboration

But our roofs have a different windshield edge shape for sure. Don't know what other differences there are.

ooh, I want a rounded double cab rear edge if its the same height as the squared off end on the standard roof! That would solve both my rear edge and length issues in one fell swoop. Let me know how I can get my paws on one.

To be honest I'm a bit crushed by Jeff's photos showing the width isn't ideal. Still not sure what to make of it, but any kind of spacer will also need to be galvanized or it's going to look super goofy sandwiched in between 2 galvy bits. Not ready to give up on this idea but a bit disheartened right now.

charles
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  #16  
Old July 29th, 2009, 10:18 PM
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Guinness is your friend ! Don"t be down, we got this....ok maybe. You ask Rdavisinva@yahoo.com for a roof ? He has a bunch and likes your S. African accent. I'll find the link to the obscure Brit company making that rear formed edge.
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  #17  
Old July 30th, 2009, 03:41 PM
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What about something like this to make up the difference in width, and make opening it a little easier?
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  #18  
Old July 30th, 2009, 04:03 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks Jeff. At the very least I think I could accomplish this with 2 tops. Use both ribs but extend them, the front lip from one can be used for the rear, and the aluminum from one can be used to finish out the back as well as add a few inches down the middle. Getting that added piece to look good is the only real trick but I'll bet there is a way.

I like that idea Greg but it has a couple of drawbacks

1. I'd have to add a rear support leaving the access from the tailgat a bit limited.
2. I would not be able to add a rooftop tent.

Keep em coming though!

Follow-up Post:

Oh and Jeff I have been meaning to tell you how stunning those pictures look. I'm sure it's partly the beautiful weather and setting, but that camera must be pretty awesome. The image says "Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi" - is that right?
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  #19  
Old July 30th, 2009, 05:40 PM
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Narrow the tub. The floor is flat and you should take out the bulkhead anyway.
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  #20  
Old July 30th, 2009, 05:44 PM
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Interesting idea Ron. I guess the only problem that causes is needing to narrow the tailgate as well, but I guess all doable, and perhaps easier to do still. Will have to think on this one.
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