Series 88" roof dimensions - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old July 30th, 2009, 06:13 PM
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I like Rons idea best so far.

It would stand a better chance of working out compared to trying to redo the roof to have it match the width and would not look bodged like adding flat strap to the caps.

You could make it look like it came from the factory the way Ron is saying to do it.

Not bad for a lawyer
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  #22  
Old July 30th, 2009, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas
Not bad for a lawyer
Amazing isn't it

So i gave this some thought and it brings up another topic, perhaps worthy of a thread of it's own - track width.

I'm not sure of the official definition of track width but google tells me it's

D90/110 = 58.5"
109 = 51.5"

Thats a pretty big difference.

I have not had time but I plan to measure my D90 or D110 from hub face to hub face as that's how a trailer axle is measured, and order one that length since I want the trailer axle width to be the same as the defenders.

I'll be running 33" tires but my goal would be to design this to support up to 35" tires and have something close to the defender track width if not exact without having it sit too high (low center of gravity).

Narrowing the tub would make this challenging would it not? I'd lose 1 1/4" clearance on each side wouldn't I? Given the tub widths are the same I assume the 109 just had more clearance than a defender before but that was with a narrower axle.
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  #23  
Old July 30th, 2009, 06:53 PM
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I would wait to order the axle and see what width you need if you cut the tub down in width then you might need to narrow the axle
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  #24  
Old July 30th, 2009, 06:59 PM
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Yeah that would be the way to go. I guess it will be ok to have a different track width. I was hoping to keep them the same but probably not a big deal.

Definitely warming up to this one
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  #25  
Old July 30th, 2009, 07:09 PM
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Widening the capping sounds like a pretty practical approach and given that I'm a little short on length, I could do the same front and rear and it actually might look pretty good with the consistent spacing all round.. certainly way way easier Maybe a combination of both that and the drip rail mod. Now much more could the drip rail go out do you think?

Thanks for the ideas. Yes that chuckwagon is awesome.
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  #26  
Old July 30th, 2009, 07:21 PM
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Another option that would be super simple would be to have Chris from Badger make you a rear cover like he makes for 90's

all you would have to do is install the beltrail on the tub

If you want to add tent mounts you could use the hood stick holes so you could remove it when you did not want the tent on it
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  #27  
Old July 30th, 2009, 11:47 PM
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cgalpin,

I suggest you wait until you have it sitting there are mock it all up and then order things like the axle.

If it were mine I would do it this way:

http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...r-p5070020.jpg

With a stock series rear axle (I think I know where there are a couple ) and a full hardtop. For the sides, I would take two 88 side panels and join them together and then put a flat panel across the front. I would run a stock SW rear door in the back. I know you want it lower, but this is by orders of magnitude easier.

Ron

edit to fit Defender width axles to a 109 tub you would need to cut the fenders and fit flares.
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  #28  
Old July 31st, 2009, 07:17 AM
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Sorry I just don't want a tall trailer (hard or soft), and I also want it lockable so a badger wouldn't do. Custom trailer axles are cheap so no problem there, the issue was the desire to have the trailer track width match the tow vehicle so it follows the same line, stays in the same ruts etc.

Don't worry I'm not doing anything until I have the parts in hand.

Jeff, where do you anticipate the problems being with narrowing the tub other than the tailgate? The only thing I don't have experience and/or tools for is aluminum work. I can shorten or lengthen any steel bits just fine and don't mind sinking time into it to get it right.
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  #29  
Old July 31st, 2009, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
The only thing I don't have experience and/or tools for is aluminum work. I can shorten or lengthen any steel bits just fine and don't mind sinking time into it to get it right.
My TIG welder is coming soon.....
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  #30  
Old July 31st, 2009, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
Here are some questions that you'll need answers to for narrowing the tub. Alot of it will depend on your skills and tools that you have. So what might seem difficult to me could be a walk in th park for you.
All good points but I think most of them have easy answers. Not saying the job is easy - a lot of work for sure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
What are you planning on for the frame? If you are using a land rover frame section, then the body mounts would need to be moved for a narower tub.
Custom frame an rear cross member so I have to fab the mounts up either way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
How are you planning on narrowing the bulkhead? Whether you are cutting and splicing or surgically removing and re fabbing of reworking the existing, you still need to shorten the galvanized bulkhead capping. are you going to re galvanize it, of cold galv it? Are you keeping ithe bulkhead in the stock location? Keep in mind that the bulkhead capping aligns with tub side capping.
I have not seen one in person and the pictures of my tub are low res, but my expectation is I'll have to add a sheet of aluminum to the front and move the capping to the front edge already to make it look right. So given I have to do all of this already, shortening the capping is no big deal.

Anything steel can be cut/welded since I'll be galvanizing all steel parts as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
How are you planning on rejoining the lower rear part of the tub that mounts to the frame? That area is a sandwich of sheetmetal with a stiffening channel etc. Are you completely re fabbing that area, or are you planning on splicing it, and if so how?
I plan on removing all of the channel for galvanizing anyway so I would shorten them first. The aluminum can just be trimmed down.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
You will need to narrow the galvanized steel tub supports. Again, hot dip or cold galv?
Not dip but drip dry is what I'm told they do for delicate parts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs
It is doable, but to me it seems like alot of work. For me the other issue is that all of that work doesn't address the shortcomings of a 109/110 tub. Namely the wasted space from the tub length wheel well boxing, and for me, that the tub floor isn't 4' wide.

-Jeff
Yeah the whole venture is a ton of work. In my minds eye, I'll use the space in the wheel well boxing, either for things like lockers/boxes, water tanks, and maybe a long shot, but a slide out kitchen in one of the front ones.
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  #31  
Old July 31st, 2009, 01:50 PM
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I know it was my idea to narrow the tub, but if you can live with straps filling the gaps, you should be fine without narrowing it. The biggest problem will be narrowing the alum reinforcing piece that runs across the back. No biggy if you can weld alum, but otherwise would be a hastle.
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  #32  
Old July 31st, 2009, 08:16 PM
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Don't waste your time trying to narrow the tub. I'd just build a steel framed aluminum cover and call it a day. Then work on the top later.
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  #33  
Old July 31st, 2009, 09:52 PM
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Not doing anything until I can line the two up and see how it will look. But we can do some office chair fabbing until then surely? Honestly narrowing a tailgate worries me more than the tub (not that I'm gung ho to narrow the tub).

But Jonathan, what's later? Making a "temporary" top doesn't make sense to me. I could lash a tarp down on it until I get the top done if needed.
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  #34  
Old August 9th, 2009, 10:31 PM
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Well, I have the first piece of the project in hand (thanks Dan) so I have started a gallery for the project at

http://lhsw.com/gallery/rover_trailer

I'm still on the fence about this but am leaning towards modifying the top if anything. As Jeff points out the drip rail is actually wide enough to just extend the width of the drip rail to make it fit. Still undecided if it will look right but that would certainly be the easiest. Either way I'd have to remove about 150 rivets, widen the front and rear drip rail (requiring another donor top anyway) and then rivet it back after galvanizing. But I am confident widening the whole top is pretty doable. Imagine for a moment that you cut the entire middle section of the top out, mid way between the center rib and the side rib. Now do the same on the donor top but about 2 inches wider on each side. Now put that wider piece in place of the piece you took out, and cover the joint with ribs from the donor top. All you have exposed is a very small section in the front, which can be riveted with a backing plate and blend in perfectly well with the rest of the fit and finish of the top. In fact if I can't spot weld the ribs on (with wolf's help) I can rivet those too and it would look perfectly fine i think. The end result would be a wider top with 5 ribs instead of 3. Both methods require a second donor top and widening of the rails.

I'd still like to find a truck cab as that would provide a little additional length if I do cap the front of the tub off at 84", but I'll be able to make that call once I have the tub in a few weeks.

charles

Follow-up Post:

Mmh, just had a thought. If I widen just the drip rail, I could install a rail along the sides that roof rack bars and tie down loops can mount onto. One of those generic truck bed tie-down systems! It wouldn't look so goofy and be super functional to boot (since I'd like to be able to add racks and/or a rooftop tent).
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  #35  
Old August 9th, 2009, 10:48 PM
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you are making work. just build a square tube frame that fits under the roof. then bolt it to the cappings
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  #36  
Old August 9th, 2009, 10:50 PM
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Nah, wont look right.
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  #37  
Old August 9th, 2009, 10:52 PM
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Do it the easy way.
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  #38  
Old August 9th, 2009, 10:58 PM
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slackers!
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  #39  
Old August 9th, 2009, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
slackers!
= Ron Good.
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  #40  
Old August 9th, 2009, 11:01 PM
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your right. I am too lazy to list all the reasons why this is silly.





Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
slackers!
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