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  #61  
Old August 7th, 2014, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
For all you guys who offered to help, how is next weekend (weekend of the 16th)? I'm flexible but it has to be on a weekend.
I recommend yank in advance (if it fits with your situation), I have to be in Tysons by 7:30pm on Sat, so I can do Sat AM to say 4:00pm. Not sure when Mr. Dro is available?

I really don't think it will take nearly that long however. Hardest part will be fishing the new harness through the chassis. The alternative is to not route the harness through the chassis, but that is up to you.
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  #62  
Old August 7th, 2014, 06:00 PM
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If I had to do it over again I would not put the harness in the chassis.
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  #63  
Old August 7th, 2014, 06:06 PM
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Charles Galpin
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No sho Dro?

I recommend leaving the existing harness in until the swap so you have a fresh recollection of what goes where.

I wish I could help but have my hands full. If you guys get done early please come by to help work on Kent's truck
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  #64  
Old August 7th, 2014, 06:07 PM
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Why?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
If I had to do it over again I would not put the harness in the chassis.
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  #65  
Old August 7th, 2014, 06:09 PM
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It's not hard if you use a good fish tape. For that matter, use the old one to pull the new one through.
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Present:
1960 SII 109"- "Red Square"
1984 90 Tdi- "Yamelo"
1988 RRC- "Chewbacca"
1987 RRC- "Chewy 2"
2008 RRS SC- "The Supersofa"

Past:
1959 SII 88"- "The Little Green Beastie" last seen in NY
1972 SIII 88"- "GreenHELL" now in NC
1988 90 "Eric the Half a Bee" half a truck, sold for parts
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  #66  
Old August 7th, 2014, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Why?
It would be easier to accommodate changes and troubleshooting in the future.

For example my build changed from a soft top to a hard top and I wanted to add the rear wiper and heated screen but my harness was not setup for the option. If it were outside of the chassis it would be easier.

Additionally I want to switch from the old school tail lamp connectors to the NAS / later defender style and to do so I have to be under the rig soldering if the harness was outside the chassis I could just pull part of the way out and have a nice place to work on it.

Just seems easier to deal with
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  #67  
Old August 7th, 2014, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
It would be easier to accommodate changes and troubleshooting in the future.


Just seems easier to deal with
This is true in every way. ALL of my builds have harness outside the chassis except one. Run the wires inside fuel line, or we use thick diesel proof heat shrink tube.
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  #68  
Old August 7th, 2014, 09:01 PM
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You can always use existing wiring for different applications and changes. Def want to wire through chassis for a various number of reasons. But easiest to articulate is safety for running it in the chassis

Use old wires if you can to pull the new ones through the grommets. If you can't get a good fish tape. Leave old one on so you match color combos on wires you are replacing. Make sure you have plenty of black tape and red tape electrician stuff. Plus shrink wrap and waterproof connectors all round. Additionally grab some dialectic grease. And have a heat gun handy. I also like that black plastic wrap to make it all look purdy but some don't. Also helps to protect the wires.

Pick it all up at NAPA or the like and make sure you get PLENTY. You can always take it back
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  #69  
Old August 7th, 2014, 09:23 PM
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So run through the chassis or no? I've been hearing good advice for both

Ed that sucks you have to leave early, I had planned on feeding all you guys a good meal.

I have a heat gun and two sets of crimpers. I have an amazon prime account so I usually get things via amazon.

Heres a list of what I plan to get-
Red electrical tape
Black electrical tape
More heat shrink
Blade fuses (new harness is blade not glass)
Dielectric grease (I think that was a typo Craig?)
I'll get some type of protector for the harness- do you guys have any recommendations?
Anything else you guys can recommend? I don't mind having extra as I'm sure I'll be adding in the future
FYI the harness has connectors already on it

Also where should I get the spade connecters that are used with these harnesses- my alternator uses blade connections but the engine harnesses now are a different type so I think those will need to be altered.

Thanks all!
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  #70  
Old August 7th, 2014, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
Def want to wire through chassis for a various number of reasons. But easiest to articulate is safety for running it in the chassis
Why?

I run them along the upper chassis rail parallel to the fuel lines. When properly sheathed and secured I would say that the cable is probably more safe than in the chassis where you can't sheath/protect as well, and visual inspection is impossible.
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Pictures show an extremely heavy duty fuel resistant heat shrink we used on a build. Once the housing was shrunk I could have clamped it to the rafters and climbed up the thing it was so burly.
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  #71  
Old August 7th, 2014, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mybluett View Post
Why?

I run them along the upper chassis rail parallel to the fuel lines. When properly sheathed and secured I would say that the cable is probably more safe than in the chassis where you can't sheath/protect as well, and visual inspection is impossible.
Leaning towards that...it makes sense to me but I don't know as much as you guys. How would I fix it to the chassis?
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  #72  
Old August 7th, 2014, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Leaning towards that...it makes sense to me but I don't know as much as you guys. How would I fix it to the chassis?


Ziptie mounts screwed into the chassis, also attached to the brake line/fuel line clips
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  #73  
Old August 7th, 2014, 10:37 PM
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Could water seep through that screw hole?...seems far fetched just trying to see any downside to this set-up.
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  #74  
Old August 7th, 2014, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Could water seep through that screw hole?...seems far fetched just trying to see any downside to this set-up.
Chassis already has holes in the top for the brake and fuel line clips, and holes in the bottom sides meant to act as drains. Water in the chassis is inevitable - thus one reason for NOT running the wiring inside the chassis...
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  #75  
Old August 7th, 2014, 10:47 PM
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In that case I'm failing to see downsides
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  #76  
Old August 7th, 2014, 11:04 PM
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Also, depending on the chassis and the guy who put it together there can be lots of sharp edges inside that can cut and abrade the new wiring when you pull it through and when its in place.
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  #77  
Old August 7th, 2014, 11:08 PM
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I prefer the 3M Super 33+ electrical tape. My harness was damaged inside the chassis. I found it when doing the chassis swap. I soldered the wires together, heat shrinked and then rewrapped the entire length of harness in electrical tape just as the factory did. Then for good measure I covered the whole length in split loom and wrapped in tape again. I did pull mine back through the chassis and would do the same again. If you do decide to pull your new one back through the chassis use the old as a pull string or attach a small diameter rope or string to use as a pull string when pulling the new harness through.
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  #78  
Old August 8th, 2014, 12:21 PM
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Brian, do you have a part # or link to that monster heat shrink?

I'm still a fan of running it in the chassis.
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  #79  
Old August 8th, 2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Brian, do you have a part # or link to that monster heat shrink?

I'm still a fan of running it in the chassis.
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/dr-25.htm

Not the cheapest thing out there - but very effective.

Lower cost option is fuel hose - chemical and abrasion resistant - seal both ends after the wiring is run.
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  #80  
Old August 8th, 2014, 04:29 PM
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Jafir Elkurd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Blade fuses (new harness is blade not glass)
Was this an option/upgrade for the 2.5na era harness from autosparks, or did you have to order a harness for something newer to get this?
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