As some of you know I am running KOH this year with Carey as the driver. I needed help getting my truck ready and Keith at Rovertracks came through big time with a brand new axle. I thought some here might want to see what he has come up with! If any of you are even considering a beefy axle upgrade, I would give this a long look!! Thanks Keith!
Pic 1. The Rovertracks 9 uses a Spidertrax 9in axle housing. This is the best axle housing you can buy. Okay, itís arguable, but I stand by that statement. The tubes are 3in OD 3/8 wall DOM tubing. The center section is custom designed to be WAY stronger than any stock housing. The center grabs much more of the tube so that a truss should not be necessary. All fully welded inside and out, with the face machined after welding to insure that the mounting is perfecto!
Pic 2. These spindles are simply bad ass. Custom made and heat treated to 36rc. The id is made to fit the 1.5in 35 spline axles. Up close you can see the quality.
Pic 3. The axle has been shortened and offset to fit the output of the rover t-case. This one is 4in wider than a stock axle. It ended up being perfect for me to compliment the 6in wider than stock front. Here is a close-up of the axle flange. This is a custom piece machined by Keith. Itís a work of art. Itís fully welded inside and out and the fit is perfect. It attaches to the spindle using 6 grade 8 socket head cap screws.
Pic 4. Other side. I used a little lock-tight to keep them in place and torqued them too tight, like I do everything.
Pic 5. Brakes and hubs. This is where it starts getting interesting. These are Rover hubs. To make the kit work you have to take a rover hub and bore the inner and outer holes to fit the new races and bearings. It is press fit tolerance so pretty close. Here is a pic from the top. You can see the inner bearing pressed into place. Itís hard to see but the axle mount holes are bored out and tapped to 7/16 fine thread. This eliminates the broken bolts that always happen when you use a system like this.
Pic 6. Here you can see the inner race pressed in. You will also notice that I drilled the rotors. It is not for weight saving, it is only for heat. I used a very conservative pattern as I didnít want to risk cracking the rotors. Then I hand chamfered all the holes both sides and hand sanded the rotor so I would not cheese grade the pad. With this axle you can use BLING wildwood rotors and calipers. I chose to go Rover because I am a cheap bastard. Thatís the only reason. I picked up the hubs, calipers, and rotors from Sterling (thanks!) for $40. You canít beat that.
Pic7. Rattlecan paint brings the bling!
Pic 8. The bearings are a PERFECT fit. Seriously, way tighter tolerance than stock (but does that surprise anyone!)
Pic 9. Here is the bearing in the hub and the outer seat tapped in, with a liberal coating of grease. I also painted up the hub and inside the rotor, because I am vain. Nothing rusts here!
Pic 10. This is the completed axle assembly. Simple, light, and strong.
I completely forgot to take pictures on the hub nuts installed. Not that you canít picture what that looks like. This is as far as I have gotten, I will post up the axle installed when I get it back. Shafts are on the way from Keith. I am not doing ANY of the work to mount these under the truck. Yes, I am ashamed of that fact, but this late in the game I donít have time to do my normal style of fab, which is to do it wrong, find out later, then fix it.
That carrier in the pic is a Currie 9+ with 6.20 gears and a big old 1350 Yoke. Way overkill for me but I figured, why not.
Here are the weight numbers:
Housing with outers and brakes, no third= 131LB
Third member= 76LB So assembled dry without shafts it is 207LB
These are my best guesses on the rest:
Brackets and calipers 25lb
So finished and mounted axle will come in around 275lb give or take 5.
Keith can provide as much or as little axle as you want. It can be just the housing cut to length or the entire unit ready to bolt in.
Updates as I can get them!