Restoring dry looking interior wood trim in an old house? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 17th, 2014, 08:34 PM
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Restoring dry looking interior wood trim in an old house?

I am under contract on a new place and in has a ton of wood trim that looks a bit dry and I am looking for recommendations on a product to restore it. I am hoping for a cleaning product (murphy's oil soap?) and then an oil I can put on (tung oil?) to restore the finish. I am hoping not to have to refinish it and it does not have to be perfect (Ron good).

Any experience or recommendations? I figure D90 answers pretty much any question.

Here is a pic of the hall (no I am not going to convert the hall into a garage).
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  #2  
Old December 17th, 2014, 08:42 PM
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I had good luck with this product while working at an antique auction house. Lots of pieces got treated with it and would cover chipped and flaking clear coats.

http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php
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Old December 17th, 2014, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
I had good luck with this product while working at an antique auction house. Lots of pieces got treated with it and would cover chipped and flaking clear coats.

http://www.howardproducts.com/prod-restor-a-finish.php
You beat me to it.

They have a wood cleaner and polish product that works well. If the wood has no damage and you are just looking to moisturize try the Feed-N-Wax. It has no stain color added while the Restor-A-Finish does. Wow that's beautiful! and a lot of trim. I see a bucket, soft sponge and a tooth brush in someone's future.

http://www.howardproducts.com/products.php
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Old December 17th, 2014, 09:55 PM
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Old school is a wipe with linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits or turp. Let dry a few days and finish with butchers wax.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:03 PM
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That looks great! Late 1920's I'd assume? That wood looks fine to me but maybe it looks different in person.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I am under contract on a new place...
Ok I will ask the obvious Q that anyone who has been to your place wants an answer to...

How in the name of the all mighty (insert deity) will you pack all the LR and other crap up and move it?
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by jonesy View Post
how in the name of the all mighty (insert deity) will you pack all the lr and other crap up and move it?
rurr...
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonesy View Post
Ok I will ask the obvious Q that anyone who has been to your place wants an answer to... How in the name of the all mighty (insert deity) will you pack all the LR and other crap up and move it?
I think I will keep the old place as a storage unit. ;-)

Seriously, the new place has a 3400 sq/ft basement with a walk in door to outside and nine foot ceilings and a 2500 sq/ft attic with 8ft ceilings. Only downside is the garage is only 1000 sq ft.

Enough space and a few tractor trailers should carry most of the stuff.

I think I am going to lease my old place but keep the garage there.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:13 PM
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Bill what is butchers wax? Keep the ideas coming.

------ Follow up post added December 17th, 2014 10:13 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
that looks great! Late 1920's i'd assume? That wood looks fine to me but maybe it looks different in person.
1929
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Bill what is butchers wax? Keep the ideas coming.

------ Follow up post added December 17th, 2014 10:13 PM ------



1929
Waxoyl ?
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Old school is a wipe with linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits or turp. Let dry a few days and finish with butchers wax.
I always choose old school and linseed oil was the first thing I thought of too but it can take awhile to dry out. It can stay tacky and he has a kitty.
Furry moulding?
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:16 PM
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It's the crap they use on butcher blocks....better is linseed oil
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:17 PM
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Anyone use Tung oil?
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  #14  
Old December 17th, 2014, 10:22 PM
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I did some work to a late 1800's home in greenfield ma and used doctor woodwell elixir. Pretty decent stuff imho.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:23 PM
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I'd check with Doug (RovingBeetle) I bet he has some great tricks up his sleeve.
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  #16  
Old December 17th, 2014, 10:30 PM
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Danish oil is good, depending on what finish is on the wood already. I have been restoring a house from the 20's and use Old English, Murphy's, Minwax stains and shellac--oftentimes a mix....

Poke around for a stash of old cans of stuff in the basement--don't throw any of it away!

I experiment on wood all the time for color/finishes. It is like mad chemistry!
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  #17  
Old December 17th, 2014, 10:47 PM
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It appears to have no varnish or anything so I think just stained and oiled.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 10:52 PM
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What was their house keeper using for the past 60 years?

Are they having an estate sale ? Let me know, I can bring down a load and check it out
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  #19  
Old December 17th, 2014, 11:03 PM
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Boiled linseed should dry hard in a day or so. However, assuming the wood hasn't been sealed with shellac or the like, it will soak into the woods cell structure fairly rapidly and not sit on the surface.
You mix up a batch of oil/turp 50-50 in a bucket. Use a rag and wipe it on liberally.
Your house will smell like an artist's studio/ship chandlery for a few weeks but it will go away soon. I actually really like the aroma.
Tape off painted areas or it will stain it and make painting over more difficult.
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Old December 17th, 2014, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
It appears to have no varnish or anything so I think just stained and oiled.
That is good otherwise you are sanding it to bare wood
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