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  #21  
Old September 1st, 2010, 02:02 PM
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barry f
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Horsey did you do the install yourself?
Horsey did you put these in yourself? If so I am impressed. NO way I would have wanted to do that.
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  #22  
Old September 1st, 2010, 02:53 PM
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ah jarek doing a little mechanic work getting ready for MAR
Yup! I need to get some shit done before MAR too.
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  #23  
Old September 1st, 2010, 03:51 PM
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On eBay Discount Tires is selling EBC rotors for 135 a set with free shipping... IMO cant beat that.... Pads lots to choose... I also like the EBC green
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  #24  
Old September 1st, 2010, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by D90DRC View Post
On eBay Discount Tires is selling EBC rotors for 135 a set with free shipping... IMO cant beat that.... Pads lots to choose... I also like the EBC green
I ended up getting Brembo rotors (all 4) and EBS Green Pads and the needed gaskets for about 287 including shipping.....
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  #25  
Old September 1st, 2010, 04:37 PM
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Man I'm late to this party...been way too busy lately.

I bought my 52mm from a Jeep parts store online, it was like $10. However, I did the channel-lock method before it showed up, and that worked just fine.

Remember to get those 13mm 12-point sockets for the calipers, and the 14mm 12-point socket to remove the rotor from the hub. Get bearing grease, and decide if you're going to replace the bearings and races or just clean and re-lubricate them. Remember to counter-sink the hub seals on the back of the rotors 4mm....and some people have preferences on which hub oil seals they use.

I did the kit from AB, it was adequate, but I probably could have shopped around and gotten better stuff.

I missed the conversation - Josh, did you do your rotors yet?
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  #26  
Old September 1st, 2010, 06:18 PM
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Horsey

Why do you refuse to say if you did your brakes?
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  #27  
Old September 1st, 2010, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by founD90 View Post
Man I'm late to this party...been way too busy lately.

I bought my 52mm from a Jeep parts store online, it was like $10. However, I did the channel-lock method before it showed up, and that worked just fine.

Remember to get those 13mm 12-point sockets for the calipers, and the 14mm 12-point socket to remove the rotor from the hub. Get bearing grease, and decide if you're going to replace the bearings and races or just clean and re-lubricate them. Remember to counter-sink the hub seals on the back of the rotors 4mm....and some people have preferences on which hub oil seals they use.

I did the kit from AB, it was adequate, but I probably could have shopped around and gotten better stuff.

I missed the conversation - Josh, did you do your rotors yet?
Ok, I am about to display my level of ignorance online... When you say Fit the new seal to a depth of 4mm........what exactly are you saying. I read this, went to my haynes manual and it says the same thing. The haynes manual shows a pic but it is not clear.

I understand what a countersink is. Does it mean that you push the seal in 4mm............
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  #28  
Old September 1st, 2010, 10:43 PM
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Let me preface this post by admitting that I did not countersink my seal 4mm. But, I stand by my belief that the seals I removed were not countersunk 4mm....

Caveat number two, there are 2 different oil seals you can buy for this job, one is the 'preferred' seal and costs a bit more, and is more rigid. The other comes with the Atlantic British kit, and is slightly more flexible. I removed and replaced the cheaper, more flexible seals, I'm not sure if that matters, but it's entirely possible that the better, more rigid seals are more sensitive to the 4mm depth.


With that out of the way, you're pretty much spot on. When you install the new seal, you want to take a tool of some sort, i.e. something round and of similar diameter of the seal, and pound the seal down 4mm below the lip of the hub. Some have indicated that there is a groove at that level the seal will 'snap in'. I can't answer that affirmative or negative.

If you know the seal, the countersinking should be pretty logical when you look at it. If you're looking at the rotor from the back/inside, the seal should be in that hole, after you put the bearing back in.

Hope that helps.
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  #29  
Old September 7th, 2010, 07:06 PM
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nevermind....
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  #30  
Old September 7th, 2010, 09:59 PM
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Ok. Started the brakes tonight....... Did not finish...

I got the seals installed with the 4mm gap (thanks everybody for the help). I have one main issue.

I know I have the right rotors (brembo) and the right pads EBC green. When I try to slip the caliper with the new pads over the top of the rotor it is to tight to slide over the rotor. I did not result to using a hammer.

There is a bit of corrosion built up one of the "pistons" for the pads and I tried to use a "C" clamp to squeze it in but it seems not to want to budge. It is only about 1/8 out. Should I soak the caliper in something to make this one piston go all the way in?

Does anybody have any other ideas....
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  #31  
Old September 7th, 2010, 10:49 PM
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Next update....

The rotors are 24mm wide, the pads are 38mm wide. Therefore: for the caliper to fit over the rotor the opening must be larger than 62mm (by a hair).

I measure the opening in the caliper is 60mm. I also show that the inner "pistons" are not compressed by 3mm.

So that means I have either really goofed up on sourcing parts or I need to compress the "pistons" by another 2+mm. Please take a look at the top view picture you can see that the outer pistons are flush, and the inner is not quite there....
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  #32  
Old September 7th, 2010, 11:00 PM
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Sorry man, wish I could help. My calipers were so f'd up with rust that I sent them off to be refinished. When they came back my new pads were already loaded in them. I just had to drop them in. I don't know a whole lot about how far the caliper cylinder should move in, but it sounds like that's your culprit. Occam's Razor...
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  #33  
Old September 7th, 2010, 11:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by founD90 View Post
Sorry man, wish I could help. My calipers were so f'd up with rust that I sent them off to be refinished. When they came back my new pads were already loaded in them. I just had to drop them in. I don't know a whole lot about how far the caliper cylinder should move in, but it sounds like that's your culprit. Occam's Razor...
I will wait to see other reply's tonight and during the day tomorrow. If I have to I will hook them back up and pressurize them with no pads so I can scrub the crap out of the cylinders with a light brush...
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  #34  
Old September 8th, 2010, 02:07 PM
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Update:


rotors are slightly corroded, got new ones from AB... The cylinder would not compress quite far enough to fit the new pads..

On another note I just got stainless brake lines from Tire Rack for $37.... All Defender products are on clearance........

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...97&autoModClar=
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  #35  
Old September 8th, 2010, 02:52 PM
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I bought my 52mm socket from these guys:

http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Impact-...e-Sealey-SX010

I'm running Disc Brake Australia rotors front and rear.

------ Follow up post added September 8th, 2010 12:54 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Horsey did you put these in yourself? If so I am impressed. NO way I would have wanted to do that.
Why? Installing rotors and rebuilding hubs is super easy, if a little messy.
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  #36  
Old September 8th, 2010, 03:03 PM
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barry f
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I am done messing with brakes after my drum mess. So much cancer inhaling brake cleaner
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  #37  
Old September 8th, 2010, 03:06 PM
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I am done messing with brakes after my drum mess. So much cancer inhaling brake cleaner
I am just pissed that I started this and it turned into having to replace the Calipers....... (no longer an afternoon job)..
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  #38  
Old September 8th, 2010, 05:21 PM
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barry f
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Nothing ever is.

In the last two weeks I did the following:
Replace temp gauge in 110 thinking I could do it quickly and just plug and play. Truck had to sit with dash apart for me to get all the right connectors as I wasn't prepared not to mention I blew a bunch of fuses like an ass!

Tried to remove a spot weld without a spot weld drill, truck had to sit yet again while I wait for drill bit, oh and lets just say good thing I got a tetanus shot.
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  #39  
Old September 8th, 2010, 05:33 PM
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You could have just rebuilt the calipers for a fraction of the cost btw. It's not a hard job. Basically you replace the pistons and seals.
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  #40  
Old September 8th, 2010, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
You could have just rebuilt the calipers for a fraction of the cost btw. It's not a hard job. Basically you replace the pistons and seals.

I am going to save the OEM ones and rebuild them. Got new ones delived to door in less than 24 hours for $340........
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