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  #41  
Old October 5th, 2015, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Dumb question...why is a tee being used at this junction?

If one port of a tee is closed off, then isn't it just a straight fitting?
For bleeding the cooling system, which doesn't even work, haha.
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  #42  
Old October 5th, 2015, 10:17 AM
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Jesse McCoy
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Ordered from Amazon last night, I'll be getting on it later in the week. Thanks again!
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  #43  
Old October 5th, 2015, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmuller View Post
Someone posted this Home Depot part in another thread:

SharkBite 3/8 in. Brass PEX Barb Coupling-UC006LFA - The Home Depot
That would be me....best $1.59 fix you can do for your LR3!
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  #44  
Old February 25th, 2016, 10:21 AM
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About to do this repair today, did anyone confirm if the bleeder valve is necessary or does it work just fine to do the straight brass fitting?
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  #45  
Old February 25th, 2016, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
About to do this repair today, did anyone confirm if the bleeder valve is necessary or does it work just fine to do the straight brass fitting?
The brass barb replacement has done well for my LR3 for the last 50,000 miles!
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  #46  
Old February 25th, 2016, 10:47 AM
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I'd say don't bother with the "bleeder"...I put the T in, but when I dumped the coolant and did the water pump I didn't even bleed it from there it all bled just fine right through the coolant reservoir. Go with the $1.59 Home Depot barb instead of the $80 brass-T.
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  #47  
Old February 25th, 2016, 10:52 AM
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Thanks guys, will tackle this this evening after I pick up a 3/8 sharkbite fitting at HD.
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  #48  
Old February 25th, 2016, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Thanks guys, will tackle this this evening after I pick up a 3/8 sharkbite fitting at HD.
I wouldn't go with a shark bite. Go with a standard barb fitting and use clamps.
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  #49  
Old February 25th, 2016, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
I wouldn't go with a shark bite. Go with a standard barb fitting and use clamps.
Gotcha thanks
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  #50  
Old February 25th, 2016, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Thanks guys, will tackle this this evening after I pick up a 3/8 sharkbite fitting at HD.
My T-stat housing cracked right around the same time as the bleeder T. After replacing the t-stat, bleeding the cooling system is nerve racking. i was about to give up twice before all the air bubbles cleared out and the temp returned to normal. Give yourself plenty of time. Overnight settling if possible and keep a keen eye on the temp gauge for the first 50 miles after replacement.
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  #51  
Old February 25th, 2016, 11:47 AM
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The one linked earlier is not a Sharkbite style fitting... It was a PEX fitting, just Sharkbite brand.... A Sharkbite style fitting is a different thing that can only work on tubing. Anywho, a PEX connector is not the best either, although it probably works. You want a hose barb coupling.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/69988
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  #52  
Old February 25th, 2016, 12:12 PM
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Jesse McCoy
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I put a tee in and just put a plug in the top "just in case". I think all the parts cost me something like $6.
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  #53  
Old February 25th, 2016, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morrisdl View Post
My T-stat housing cracked right around the same time as the bleeder T. After replacing the t-stat, bleeding the cooling system is nerve racking. i was about to give up twice before all the air bubbles cleared out and the temp returned to normal. Give yourself plenty of time. Overnight settling if possible and keep a keen eye on the temp gauge for the first 50 miles after replacement.
That is a good point...once the "T" is brittle, the t-stat housing is next on it's heels. Though...didn't hold true in my case as it ended up being my water pump that was actually leaking, but I did the stat housing "while I was in there" anyhow since it was probably on borrowed time:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tml#post716305
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  #54  
Old February 25th, 2016, 02:24 PM
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Have you guys replaced hoses? My 06 lr3 has 130k with original hoses. They look ok...
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  #55  
Old February 25th, 2016, 03:08 PM
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Im at 120K and look ok too. Im planning on doing hoses, belts and water pump as prevent maintenance next year (if I still own it)...
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  #56  
Old February 25th, 2016, 04:23 PM
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Hoses rarely fail on LR3's in my experience.
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  #57  
Old February 25th, 2016, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Hoses rarely fail on LR3's in my experience.
Good to know. Do you ever replace them as PM?
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  #58  
Old February 26th, 2016, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Good to know. Do you ever replace them as PM?

Nope. I trust original parts more than replacement parts usually.
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  #59  
Old June 17th, 2017, 11:17 AM
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Anyone else find that their falconworks bleeder leaks? I'm going to see if upgrading the hose clamp helps, but mine weeps from around the hose.
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  #60  
Old June 17th, 2017, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Anyone else find that their falconworks bleeder leaks? I'm going to see if upgrading the hose clamp helps, but mine weeps from around the hose.
Cap on it needs to be torqued to 35ft-lbs, which is very difficult to do in-situ. Take the T out, put it in a vice, and torque....leak will usually go away. Mine was doing the same thing, but from the cap, and I also had to swap out to smaller hose clamps (I think I used fuel injector clamps if I recall).
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