PSA: If you have an 4.4L LR3 or RRS, replace this... - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old May 21st, 2014, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Jimmy,

Should the hoses be crimped before replacing the bleeder with a brass barb to avoid air getting in or coolant getting out? (when engine is cool of course...)

Cheers...
You don't have to, but it wouldn't hurt. If you don't, just slightly overfill the reservoir and it should bleed on its own. Its so high in the cooling system it will bleed quickly. Even if the engine is cold, make sure you open the cap to relieve the pressure.
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  #22  
Old May 21st, 2014, 06:09 PM
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Ray Gerber
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For those that want the bleeder, want metal, and don't want to pay MSRP for OEM parts....
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/...q167b3gu8t2g86
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  #23  
Old May 21st, 2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post
For those that want the bleeder, want metal, and don't want to pay MSRP for OEM parts....
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/...q167b3gu8t2g86
That's awesome! I'm going to try to get our parts department to sell those.
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  #24  
Old May 21st, 2014, 07:35 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post
For those that want the bleeder, want metal, and don't want to pay MSRP for OEM parts....
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/...q167b3gu8t2g86
Ok what local guys are in for a group buy to save some shipping???

They want $16 to ship one, but shipping 3 is only $19.
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  #25  
Old May 21st, 2014, 08:30 PM
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Ray Gerber
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Damn Lav...wish I'd posted it earlier-I actually had this on my list of AD upgrades so I ordered one a little while back to get it before the truck ships. Good idea on the group buy.
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  #26  
Old May 21st, 2014, 09:24 PM
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$54 for a brass tee?

There has got to be cheaper stuff out there.....
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  #27  
Old December 18th, 2014, 10:40 AM
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Jason Lavender
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Wow Jimmy you weren't kidding. Finally got off my arse and ordered the Brass-T last month, and put it in this morning. I was being VERY careful with the old/original one when I was removing it...and it literally just snapped in my hand.

It's a 10-minute fix, and as Jimmy pointed out well worth making a point to change out this part NOW.
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  #28  
Old January 9th, 2015, 10:54 AM
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You actually can get just the tee from land rover, and it's only about $10. Part LR027661.
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  #29  
Old January 9th, 2015, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
You actually can get just the tee from land rover, and it's only about $10. Part LR027661.
For another crappy, plastic, brittle, under-designed genuine Land Rover part...yes .
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  #30  
Old January 9th, 2015, 11:06 AM
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I agree. But I could buy 5 of the plastic ones and replace them every 2 or 3 years for the price of the brass one.

As you can tell, I'm not a NAS Defender owner... I'm a tightwad from Disco land.
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  #31  
Old January 9th, 2015, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
I agree. But I could buy 5 of the plastic ones and replace them every 2 or 3 years for the price of the brass one.

As you can tell, I'm not a NAS Defender owner... I'm a tightwad from Disco land.
I'm with you as well and at times I also qualify for the cheapf*ck award. On the other hand, I also hate doing things twice!
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  #32  
Old January 9th, 2015, 11:41 AM
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Or just replace with a straight brass barb for under $1
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  #33  
Old January 9th, 2015, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jafir View Post
I agree. But I could buy 5 of the plastic ones and replace them every 2 or 3 years for the price of the brass one.

As you can tell, I'm not a NAS Defender owner... I'm a tightwad from Disco land.
I didn't know that until I moved to New York. Apparently you have to look it up in Microcat without the VIN for that part to show up.
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  #34  
Old January 9th, 2015, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Or just replace with a straight brass barb for under $1
Good tip! Thats what I did when mine fell apart at 105k miles. Not even the LR techs use this bleed valve. I was starting to 2nd guess my decision with it took a few cycles to the air out after the thermostat housing was replaced, but i hear that's actually the norm.
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  #35  
Old October 4th, 2015, 09:36 PM
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If you're reading this and havent done this yet, do it asap. I read this when Jymmie first posted it, and then I noticed it again last week when someone else mentioned it in another thread.. I put it on my to do list, but didn't get to it yet... today I was at a friends house and my truck was idling in the driveway and all of a sudden, white smoke/steam everywhere.. thankfully I wasn't on the road when it happened as we were able to fix it quickly.. but at the very least, buy either a coupling or the genuine part and either replace it or keep it in your truck.
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  #36  
Old October 4th, 2015, 11:45 PM
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Jesse McCoy
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Thanks for the reminder. Anyone know the sizing for a barb fitting I can just order off amazon really quick?
Thanks in advance.
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  #37  
Old October 5th, 2015, 06:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBurt View Post
Thanks for the reminder. Anyone know the sizing for a barb fitting I can just order off amazon really quick?
Thanks in advance.
I don't know the size, but I would guess 8mm, 3/8", or 10mm.
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  #38  
Old October 5th, 2015, 08:33 AM
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It's a 3/8" diameter barb.
Do yourself a huge favor and replace the plastic POS with brass.
I still can't believe LR would put this weak link in a $60k vehicle...
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  #39  
Old October 5th, 2015, 08:52 AM
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Someone posted this Home Depot part in another thread:

SharkBite 3/8 in. Brass PEX Barb Coupling-UC006LFA - The Home Depot
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  #40  
Old October 5th, 2015, 09:31 AM
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Dumb question...why is a tee being used at this junction?

If one port of a tee is closed off, then isn't it just a straight fitting?
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