Proper steps when storing your Defender - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 29th, 2015, 11:22 AM
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Sam
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Proper steps when storing your Defender

So the Defender will be sitting in a storage unit for six months or so without anyone to look after her. I usually have family or friends to drive my vehicles when Im off playing but will not this time. Looking for some tips/tricks/TTPs to ensure she doesnt die on me. Currently looking at doing the following:

Enclosed storage shed. Climate controlled or not? (southwest US desert heat!)
Battery Tender Trickle Charge or disconnect battery?
Remove tires and place on jackstands
Washed/Detailed
Engine Oil Change (just did all other fluids)

Thanks for the feedback!
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  #2  
Old March 29th, 2015, 11:29 AM
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Id run the tank till it was as empty as possible so you can put fresh gas in it when you get back
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  #3  
Old March 29th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMac View Post
So the Defender will be sitting in a storage unit for six months or so without anyone to look after her. I usually have family or friends to drive my vehicles when Im off playing but will not this time. Looking for some tips/tricks/TTPs to ensure she doesnt die on me. Currently looking at doing the following:

Enclosed storage shed. Climate controlled or not? (southwest US desert heat!)
Battery Tender Trickle Charge or disconnect battery?
Remove tires and place on jackstands
Washed/Detailed
Engine Oil Change (just did all other fluids)

Thanks for the feedback!
It's only 6 months...I wouldn't go too crazy. Put the battery on trickle (I just hit my "kill" switch usually), add some Stabil and call it a day. I use the CTek 3300: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All my non-daily-drivers get stored for winter every year, which is generally at least 3-months (depending on the year)...a few more months is not that big of a deal, and I wouldn't worry about removing the tires. If you wanted, you could just over-inflate them slightly (like 50psi) to avoid flat spotting, but it's not like you're running race tires so flat spots in tires like MTs are not of great concern.

I've read (Hagerty) that using dryer sheets in/around the vehicle will help deter rodents (mice), so I've taken to doing this just to avoid issue...even stuck a few up the engine compartment and tailpipe so they aren't tempted to run up in there. Just don't forget to remove them all when you fire it back up.

------ Follow up post added March 29th, 2015 11:33 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
Id run the tank till it was as empty as possible so you can put fresh gas in it when you get back
I thought you wanted to do the opposite? In the boating world, it's more "fill the tank" to avoid condensation/moisture build up. Keeping the fuel in the lines also avoids things drying out/etc.
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  #4  
Old March 29th, 2015, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
Id run the tank till it was as empty as possible so you can put fresh gas in it when you get back
Or you could fill it to the brim with fuel and the proper amount of stabilizer. That's what I do. I use pinching wheel chalks to keep the tires round, but jacks would work, too. Just take the weight off and you could even deflate. Trickle charger is the best solution for expensive batteries. Cheap ones I just disconnect. You already changed fluids, so that's good and done. Change the oil when you get back because you'll just want to anyways. Clean it and cover with a breathable cover. That's about the most you could do for any vehicle.
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  #5  
Old March 29th, 2015, 11:38 AM
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Thanks fellas. Forgot about fuel stabilizer...and the full tank of fuel. Sam, whats the reasoning behind an empty tank? I do this to small engines but only after running fuel stabilizer.

Oh, and the 6 months or so could turn into a year (hope not)...
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  #6  
Old March 29th, 2015, 11:42 AM
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You will get condensation in an empty tank. Full tank and fuel stabilizer.
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Old March 29th, 2015, 12:14 PM
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Place on axle stands

fuel conditioner (marine type and double dosage)

battery tender/ solar charger

RAT&Mice food

put a couple of open boxes of the kids sidewalk chalk in the foot wells

tennis ball up exhaust pipe and intake horn

on retune change fluids, hopefully you got a good dose of fresh antifreeze already in.
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  #8  
Old March 29th, 2015, 12:22 PM
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If 6 months could turn into a year, you might also want to squirt a light coat of oil in the combustion chambers to keep the rings and cylinder walls from starting to rust.

Or you could locate another friend who could tend to it for you.

What part of Texas do you live in?
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  #9  
Old March 29th, 2015, 12:28 PM
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Fuel stabilizer could be a good option too but keep in mind that most of those products claim to keep gas good for up to 12 months. You should be fine for 6 months, unless 6 months turns into 2 years
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