Proper paint/coating for axle tube? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 11:57 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Proper paint/coating for axle tube?

I'm thinking about trying to help my brother address the rust on his 94. One piece of the car that I really don't want to replace is the rear axle tube. It has a shocking about amount of rust on it. Once I get it down to the bare metal, what's the best pay to re coat it? Is the original finish a powder coat or are they using something else? I know nothing about painting / powder coating so I'd like to do something that's tougher than simply rattle canning it.

I'm just curious to hear what types of products people use to address rust under the car once it's been all sanded down. Thanks
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
I'm thinking about trying to help my brother address the rust on his 94. One piece of the car that I really don't want to replace is the rear axle tube. It has a shocking about amount of rust on it. Once I get it down to the bare metal, what's the best pay to re coat it? Is the original finish a powder coat or are they using something else? I know nothing about painting / powder coating so I'd like to do something that's tougher than simply rattle canning it.

I'm just curious to hear what types of products people use to address rust under the car once it's been all sanded down. Thanks
I used Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulating Primer" and covered it with their "Chassis Black Extreme", and so far so good.

The original finish is just factory paint...but I've seen folks powdercoat them (cgalpin), as well as even galvanize them (Brewie212). The latter is certainly much tougher/durable, *if* you're not wheeling it. Otherwise it's tough to touchup pc/galvy if you're scraping it off on rocks/etc, so I went for the Eastwood route.
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  #3  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:03 PM
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Tony Lawson
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look into POR15
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:05 PM
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look into POR15
If you go the POR15 route, make SURE you use their etching treatment stuff first on bare metal...otherwise that POR will peel right off.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:21 PM
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Tony Lawson
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
If you go the POR15 route, make SURE you use their etching treatment stuff first on bare metal...otherwise that POR will peel right off.
absolutely, With any paint system, prep is EVERYTHING. Paint lifting is usually a lack of thorough de-greasing.
de-grease, de-grease, de-grease. Then do the phosphoric acid etch(metal prep). Then wire brush AGAIN with clean, new wire brushes.
With the statement about "bare metal", I'm assuming the willingness to do it right.

we've been using POR15 on deep ocean steel parts now....and have been surprised at how well it is holding up. But we do intensive prep.

anyone know if POR15 will bond to the tannic acid conversion base? probably, but not sure.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16kpsi View Post
absolutely, With any paint system, prep is EVERYTHING. Paint lifting is usually a lack of thorough de-greasing.
de-grease, de-grease, de-grease. Then do the phosphoric acid etch(metal prep). Then wire brush AGAIN with clean, new wire brushes.
With the statement about "bare metal", I'm assuming the willingness to do it right.

we've been using POR15 on deep ocean steel parts now....and have been surprised at how well it is holding up. But we do intensive prep.

anyone know if POR15 will bond to the tannic acid conversion base? probably, but not sure.
Agreed on the prep obviously, but specifically with POR unless the prep involves their "metal prep" etching spray (as you pointed out) then results are less than ideal. Using that stuff however, POR is the cats pajamas.
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  #7  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:23 PM
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wayne p
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On my RoW 90's axles which were covered in a moderate coating of rust and caked French farm mud, I washed, wirebrushed to light, tight rust, cleaned well again, then applied Corroseal, primer and 3-4 layers of chassis paint. Not a show finish, but durable enough and easy to touch up.


I have been very happy w/ Corroseal, but it is sensitive to surface prep.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 12:28 PM
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Dinitrol if you can get your hands on it. Take a look at funrover.com for what he did with Dinitrol.

I have used ChassisSaver topped with flat black chassis paint on my pickup. There is less prep than with POR15.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:08 PM
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i went to bare metal then used rustolem, was cheap and easy and has held up for 5 years in NY
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  #10  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:27 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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Took a look at POR15. So the process would be:

1. Sand it down to bare metal
2. Degrease it using their product
3. Use their metal prep product- it looks like a spray bottle? Anyone ever used this? What's the application directions? I probably need an abbrasive pad or wire brush to use with it right?
4. Apply POR 15- I'd be using the spray can.

Doesn't sound too bad. Anything i'm missing? The truck will theoretically get wheeled so once the POR 15 is scratched do I have to redo all this prep or just touch it up?
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:33 PM
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Sand blast, if you are using POR-15. Any other surface prep and it will come loose eventually. Do three coats. That is the only way it will last long term in a winter climate...

Other wise use a good polyurethane. Nothing else will last.

If you don't have winter, cat piss will be fine...
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  #12  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 01:52 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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One of the biggest reasons I moved to California from New York was so that me and the Land Rovers never had to see winter ever again.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
i went to bare metal then used rustolem, was cheap and easy and has held up for 5 years in NY
This.
The Rustoleum Professional oil-based in a gallon can. You can spray it or brush it. About $20 or so. We use it on our fire hydrants(2,500+) and it holds up very well to being out in the elements(rain, snow, salt) every day of the year.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 02:28 PM
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My philosophy is to mop on a mixture of Rustoleum satin black, turpentine and linseed oil. Cheap, lasts, kills rust, and you won't worry too much when you scrape the axle on rocks.
Mix it up nice and juicy, and apply with a rag. Just get it on there. Don't worry too much about pretty.
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Old February 22nd, 2016, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
This.
The Rustoleum Professional oil-based in a gallon can. You can spray it or brush it. About $20 or so. We use it on our fire hydrants(2,500+) and it holds up very well to being out in the elements(rain, snow, salt) every day of the year.
One winter driving here in Canada and it is falling off and bleeding through.
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  #16  
Old February 22nd, 2016, 05:45 PM
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Probably not the most economical solution but every heard of anyone applying rhino-lining?

Probably the toughest option..
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