Por-15 chassiscoat black - Defender Source
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Old March 4th, 2014, 09:55 PM
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Por-15 chassiscoat black

Does anyone know if I can POR-15 Chassiscoat Black my chassis directly (after cleaning and prep) or would I need to apply the POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating FIRST before I add the Chassiscoat Black?

The reason I ask is POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating is sensitive to UV light and the POR-15 Chassiscoat Black is not.

http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BLACK_p_37.html
"CHASSISCOAT BLACK is non-porous and will not crack, chip, or peel when properly applied according to directions. It has amazing scratch and abrasion resistance and is similar in strength to regular POR-15 Rust Preventive Coatings. CHASSISCOAT BLACK is not sensitive to ultra-violet light and may be exposed to sunlight without damaging consequences. CHASSISCOAT BLACK has excellent adhesion characteristics and may be applied over POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint months or years later with proper preparation."
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  #2  
Old March 4th, 2014, 10:23 PM
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POR 15 is like elephant snot it will stick. That said its pointless to paint it over rust unless you thoroughly clean the spot and neutralize the rust. Suggest you buy the small 8 oz cans as POR reacts/kicks on contact with air and once opened you must use the container.
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  #3  
Old March 4th, 2014, 10:54 PM
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I've used por 15 on many things, and time has proven to me that once you paint with por 15, you are done. Nothing has ever needed re treatment that I've done. The chassis black is just sun screen for the rust prevention.
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  #4  
Old March 4th, 2014, 10:55 PM
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Por 15 then top coat with Chassiscoat and what Doug said^^^
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Old March 4th, 2014, 10:59 PM
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You can keep the paint for a long time after use by putting plastic wrap over top before adding lid back on. The paint will perm seal the lid without the plastic barrier. I just opened a can ive had and used for several years to repaint my propane rack I just had modified. No issues
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  #6  
Old March 5th, 2014, 01:22 AM
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm rust free at the moment and would like to keep it that way if possible in the NE.

In this scenario would I need to use the POR-15 rust Preventive Coating first and then apply the POR-15 Chassiscoat Black after as a second coat?

Or is the POR-15 Chassiscoat Black alone as a first coat enough to protect it from UV's?

James mentioned both but any seconds here?

Any idea on cost to have a shop do this? I know its a dirty process...
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  #7  
Old March 5th, 2014, 02:34 AM
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POR15 is not a paint it's a convert hence the sensitivity to UV. So with that said anyplace that is susceptible to direct sunlight will need either a clear protective coating or a chassis paint to protect. If your frame is not rusty why POR15 it? Well I know a few people that will induce surface rust just so they can use POR15, bc it is hammer tough and hard to beat. Once again IF YOUR TRUCK iIS RUST FREE POR15 IS USELESS!! There are other protectant out there that are great for preventative maintenance. To induce rust you grind all the paint off and etch the raw metal with an acid and mist water to start the rusting process, bc POR15 is not paint it is a converter! The ppl that make POR15 also make a chassis paint that is UV protectant but it is not POR15 it is just from the makers of POR15. With all that said, POR15 is a tedious process and has to be done correctly, it is almost always brushed on, I have buddies that will buy HF cheap guns to just throw them away after the one time use, done right means dropping fuel tank, springs, pulling radius arms/ the whole nine to be done right. But what do I know??? Anyway good luck last job I did took about twelve hours and his total bill was over $1600 which wasn't enough if you ask me for the job! It was a 97 Le 90 that was covered in rust we did the door bottoms and floor panels as well along with a few other small odds and ends and was the second step after replacing the rear crossmember. We also painted his springs and radius arms bc he wanted everything coated. We used POR15 as a converter with a 3m chassis paint top coat from rattle cans to reach all the nooks and crannies that we couldn't reach with the brush. Good luck! Anyone else doing this? Would love to see what they charge??
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Old March 5th, 2014, 02:36 AM
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Notice how the fuel tank is out? Who actually does that???
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  #9  
Old March 5th, 2014, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
Notice how the fuel tank is out? Who actually does that???
I do.
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  #10  
Old March 5th, 2014, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I do.
we are a select few that would open that Pandora's box
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  #11  
Old March 5th, 2014, 06:47 AM
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Brian, substitute the word "encapsulator" in all the places you use "converter". There's no chemical conversion of the rust to black oxide as with true conversion coatings. It is just a really tough cyanoacrylate paint.
You can get good results spraying POR-15, but it is recommended that you also buy a gallon of the solvent for both reducing and clean up. You don't need a rusty surface, but you do need an etched surface. After using the Marine Clean to degrease, use the Metal-Ready to etch the metal, then you can coat with POR-15, then topcoat. That's the exact schedule I used for my fuel tank. It is absolutely bullet proof.
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  #12  
Old March 5th, 2014, 07:03 AM
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  #13  
Old March 5th, 2014, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Brian, substitute the word "encapsulator" in all the places you use "converter". There's no chemical conversion of the rust to black oxide as with true conversion coatings. It is just a really tough cyanoacrylate paint. You can get good results spraying POR-15, but it is recommended that you also buy a gallon of the solvent for both reducing and clean up. You don't need a rusty surface, but you do need an etched surface. After using the Marine Clean to degrease, use the Metal-Ready to etch the metal, then you can coat with POR-15, then topcoat. That's the exact schedule I used for my fuel tank. It is absolutely bullet proof.
I recant, I'm not up to date on all the changes they have made. Ten years ago a rep did a promotion for our shop with the step by step process for the product. All I remember him saying is "THIS NOT PAINT it will fade" he did also say it was kinda like magic had a hammer that was dipped and he beat on a bunch of stuff with not chips along with a couple pieces of metal that were covered in surface rust that they intentionally left outside to show how it worked, I guess with technology that they hold people accountable for the truth and not just what they say. I just went through their web site to prove you wrong and not once did it say CONVERTER so you are right Bill, funny when I started using the product, they only had one! Now there is a whole line of products they have. Anyway good to know. Cannot beat this stuff, that's for sure!
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  #14  
Old March 5th, 2014, 08:11 AM
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In my limited experience, the paint didn't break down in UV light, it just changed color. Maybe that's due to the resin getting zapped by sunlight, but it didn't seem to be any less tough. That's on a ten year old sample (that is sitting around in the boneyard)
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  #15  
Old March 5th, 2014, 08:25 AM
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And it won't from my experience, the 73 bronco chassis we did in 2002 is still awesome, but the guy is ultra meticulous with the truck even has a special duster for it! SMH beautiful truck though.
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  #16  
Old March 5th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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I painted my NAS 3rd brake light bar with POR15 four years ago and since it has broken down w/ UV light. It turned into a more matt grey/black color -more grey where exposed to UV and seemed to be thinner in that same area. I now have some surface rust coming through in that thin area.
I prepped it prior to painting, stripped the bar of its OEM paint/coating, sanded, etc. before painting with a few coats of POR15.
because of this im going to have to pull the bar off again, repaint it with POR15 again, but this time ill put on a topcoat.
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  #17  
Old March 5th, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rufus View Post
I painted my NAS 3rd brake light bar with POR15 four years ago and since it has broken down w/ UV light. It turned into a more matt grey/black color -more grey where exposed to UV and seemed to be thinner in that same area. I now have some surface rust coming through in that thin area.
I prepped it prior to painting, stripped the bar of its OEM paint/coating, sanded, etc. before painting with a few coats of POR15.
because of this im going to have to pull the bar off again, repaint it with POR15 again, but this time ill put on a topcoat.
Yeah, in my experience you definitely need to top coat it. I haven't had a problem yet, but I haven't ever put it anywhere the sun would get at it without a top coat. I have seen other finishes (powder coat) break down from the UV in exactly the way you are describing and from reading their site, I would expect nothing less from the POR15 without a protective top coat.
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