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  #1  
Old July 7th, 2006, 04:25 PM
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Mike Lynch
1994 Defender 90 #1017
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Por-15

I just finished painting my frame with POR15 and was amazed how tough this stuff is. It's too bad I got it all over my arms and there is no way this shit is coming off. For those that have done this...how does it hold up over time?
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  #2  
Old July 7th, 2006, 04:45 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Holds up great if you dont paint it over galv...
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  #3  
Old July 7th, 2006, 04:52 PM
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Ken Loy
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i haven't been very please with mine. I treated and painted my sliders as recommended by the mfg. When it gets scratched, it peels off like plastic coating, which I guess it really is anyways. The bare metal gets exposed. It seems that painting (or galvy) would be better. Primer adheres better and at least continues to provide some protection.
I wonder if the same problem occurs with powdercoating?
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  #4  
Old July 7th, 2006, 05:15 PM
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Hans Haase
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Powdercoating can also suffer from the big-flake syndrome.

I've had great luck with a similar product from Eastwood, which is a rust converter, that supposedly doesn't suffer from the flake issue like POR-15 does.

-Hans
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  #5  
Old July 7th, 2006, 05:46 PM
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"Holds up great if you dont paint it over galv..."

I was waiting for this post . . . I kept saying to myself, I wonder when that por-15/paint is going to come off that frame . . . nothing sticks to galvy

Sorry Jim C.

Ron
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  #6  
Old July 8th, 2006, 09:01 AM
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Marc
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I used a similar type paint to repaint the rear frame member. I prepped the surface well, degeasing and light sanding.
After applying the POR type paint, (not UV resistant) I topcoated with the co's proprietary UV resistant chassi paint.
After two years, no flaking at all.

DAP has a new epoxy based rust proof paint that supposedly adheres to galvanized chassis. I think that you still have to prep the galv. surface with a light sanding for best possible adhesion. I might try the stuff for my roof rack.

If you get this kind of stuff on your skin, it won't come off until your skin sheds it off. It's a PITA to deal with, and extra
caution is definitely needed. ( I treat the stuff like toxic waste)
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  #7  
Old July 9th, 2006, 06:07 AM
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Sandro
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I've had no direct experience with POR-15. On several occasions I've thought about using it but the product's name has sent me down another path. If I'm going to spend the time to treat a part of my Land Rover, I'd prefer not to Paint Over Rust.
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  #8  
Old July 9th, 2006, 09:37 AM
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Marc
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I used it as a preventative. the rear cross member as you know starts rusting pretty quickly. When I started getting minimal surface rust, I re-did the whole rear inside and out, then waxoiled the inner part after a week. It solved the rust
problem. On a rusted through chassi, I would definitely replace metal or chassi.
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  #9  
Old July 10th, 2006, 05:25 AM
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Chris Davis
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It will hold up great on your arms--good sun screen too. I have used it on stuff like the inside of my battery box, but I no longer use it on anything that will get deep scratches such as the frame and sliders since once it scratches, the paint flakes and the water gets under the por and ends up causing rust bubbles. It is incredibly tough, but nothing will withstand the impact of a D90 onto rocks.
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  #10  
Old July 10th, 2006, 12:03 PM
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Tony Brooks
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I just used it to refinish the frame on another product. I did the full process they reccomend (marine clean, then metal prep, then the por-15, then chassis black) and I'm very pleased with the result. It's tough, seems to be sticking very well, and was nicely self-leveling. I went with the por vs. powdercoating due to the ease of touch up in case of a break in the finish.
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  #11  
Old July 14th, 2006, 07:44 AM
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Jim C.
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With proper prep, I've had great results. (frames and arms too) If the metal is too clean, or contaminated with any oil, it will not adhere as well though.

jC
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