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  #1  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:55 AM
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On Sale AGM Battery UB12750-45821

While they last:

AGM Battery UB12750-45821

https://www.batterystuff.com/batteri...750-45821.html

This is almost an inch too wide for the battery box in our 1983 110.
Dimensions:
Length 10.24"
Width 6.61"
Height 8.27"

I believe the later battery boxes were wider.
Can anyone confirm?
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  #2  
Old September 8th, 2016, 12:06 PM
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Perfect battery for this project:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eti-62893.html
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  #3  
Old September 8th, 2016, 12:50 PM
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I'd be careful of the UB brand, as it is China made.
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  #4  
Old September 8th, 2016, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
This is almost an inch too wide for the battery box in our 1983 110.
Dimensions:
Length 10.24"
Width 6.61"
Height 8.27"

I believe the later battery boxes were wider.
Can anyone confirm?
Hmmm, I have one of these in my '95 D90 battery box, fits with no issue and is 6.75" wide..

To me, the battery you linked (group 24) seems a bit small for a Defender (Generally run Group 31's)..
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  #5  
Old September 8th, 2016, 03:15 PM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRNAD90 View Post
Hmmm, I have one of these in my '95 D90 battery box, fits with no issue and is 6.75" wide..

To me, the battery you linked (group 24) seems a bit small for a Defender (Generally run Group 31's)..
Sorry should have been more specific.
This is an auxiliary battery to use with solar panels, electric fridge, electric appliances, so it has to share the battery box with the stock car battery in place.

I ended up buying the more expensive XS Power D5100.

XS Power D5100 12-Volt Deep Cycle AGM Power Cell Battery

When I called in the order, the salesman gave me a $20 discount with free shipping, but it still cost $230.

Dimensions:
Length 9.04"
Width 5.43"
Height 8.19"

According to measurements it will fit in the battery box with the car battery and is 12-Volt Deep Cycle AGM with 60 Amp hrs.
More than I wanted to pay, but will work just fine.
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  #6  
Old September 10th, 2016, 01:11 AM
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Because this can cover a 3000 watt peak surge, it is ideal for running auxiliary equipment that needs a large voltage draw like redneck AC when the 200 AMP alternator is idling and the portable 120V AC kicks in via the inverter...

Specs:
Cranking Amps 685
Amp Hours (AH) 60
Length 9.04"
Width 5.43"
Height 8.19"
Maximum System Wattage 3000 watts
BCI Group Number 51
Parts Warranty Duration 3 years
Labor Warranty Duration 3 years
Warranty Provider Manufacturer
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  #7  
Old October 17th, 2016, 01:05 AM
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interested in seeing some pictures of your setup - thinking of setting up a smaller aux battery in the battery box to power fridge and some accessories. And do you charge the aux battery through solar only? Thanks!
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  #8  
Old October 17th, 2016, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lithium1330 View Post
interested in seeing some pictures of your setup - thinking of setting up a smaller aux battery in the battery box to power fridge and some accessories. And do you charge the aux battery through solar only? Thanks!
I'm going to duplicate this setup under the passenger seat of my truck.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eti-62893.html
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  #9  
Old October 17th, 2016, 07:43 AM
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I'll get some pictures later today.
Before installing a second 250 AMP alternator in addition to the 100 AMP one we used 2 - 200 AMP relays with a 3 position switch with a single 100 AMP alternator set up to charge one battery at a time..
The switch would send the ground to the 85 terminal of the relays.
The 86 and 87 terminals would come from the respective battery - car on one deep cycle on the other.
Terminal 30 would come from the alternator on each relay which would direct the alternator charge to the selected battery.
The car battery remained connected to the starter as well as the starter relay.
The vehicles brown circuit was also connected to the 87 relay terminal, so when you are charging, the chosen battery is also running everything less the starting power.
In this way, you can run the deep cycle flat, but still have the ability to start the vehicle on the car battery.
Run the engine for a few minutes to recharge the car battery and then switch over to charge the deep cycle battery.
Only caveat is the relays do draw current so the center position on the 3 way does not send a ground to either 200 AMP relay.
Worked like a champ.
Even gave me the ability to route the 100 AMP alternator to the deep cycle battery after the 250 AMP alternator was installed to provide a max output of 350 AMPS for the 120V inverter to run a portable AC setup and any 120V device.

At the MAR the children wanted grilled cheese sandwiches that generally scorch in a pan on a propane stove.
Started up the engine and plugged in the good old George Foreman 120V grill into the inverter.
In 10 minutes the children had golden brown grilled cheese with crunchy fully cooked bread and cheddar oozing out the sides.
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  #10  
Old October 17th, 2016, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
I'm going to duplicate this setup under the passenger seat of my truck.
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...eti-62893.html
Thanks, Dave. I did read your build thread... I, too, was looking at the GZ setup, but the price was really out of my reach. So, I started pricing out components from Amazon. I'm _hoping_ to fit a smaller battery for fridge use, under the seat (along side the starter batt)... but will need to take some measurements. I am pretty sure I don't have enough room under passenger seat - it's pretty shallow.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
I'll get some pictures later today.
Before installing a second 250 AMP alternator in addition to the 100 AMP one we used 2 - 200 AMP relays with a 3 position switch with a single 100 AMP alternator set up to charge one battery at a time...

At the MAR the children wanted grilled cheese sandwiches that generally scorch in a pan on a propane stove.
Started up the engine and plugged in the good old George Foreman 120V grill into the inverter.
In 10 minutes the children had golden brown grilled cheese with crunchy fully cooked bread and cheddar oozing out the sides.
Pictures would be very helpful, Robert! That will help me understand your alternator setup. I've been contemplating dual batt setup. Then, if I'm only running the fridge (when truck is not running for 2 - 3 days), I could getaway with a single group 31 AGM + a jump start pack. And 3rd option is when I read your/this & Dave's post... use a small battery with solar. Which I'm really leaning towards.
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  #11  
Old October 17th, 2016, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lithium1330 View Post
Pictures would be very helpful, Robert! That will help me understand your alternator setup. I've been contemplating dual batt setup. Then, if I'm only running the fridge (when truck is not running for 2 - 3 days), I could getaway with a single group 31 AGM + a jump start pack. And 3rd option is when I read your/this & Dave's post... use a small battery with solar. Which I'm really leaning towards.
I plan to use solar as an alternative to having to run the engine to charge up the deep cycle AGM.
A large panel of 100(+) watts will be enough to keep the battery topped off so you'll be fully charged at night.

We actually have a 145 watt solar panel with controller that will prevent the battery from overcharging and has an 11.8 volt battery protection that you can use if you connect your output directly to the controller.
If the AGM battery is not bothered by more of a discharge, you can use the controller to prevent overcharging and hook your 12V items directly to the battery to bypass the low voltage protection built into the controller.
The next morning you're panel will resume charging if the battery is flat from running the fridge and LED lights to illuminate your camp site.
Some people burn alternate fuels that can put out a different odor or are turned off by diesel fumes, so the solar is a good camping option.
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  #12  
Old October 17th, 2016, 10:44 PM
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Thought about it some more... could I pull this off with a single battery + solar & controller?
where I have question is... can the alternator and charge from solar controller be connected to the (+) on the battery at same time?
Or do I need a disconnect so that when truck is running/alternator charging, I disconnect the solar controller, then disconnect to the alternator when batt is charging via solar?

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