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  #1  
Old June 1st, 2014, 08:56 AM
ymc226
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Lawrence
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Oil change, need to lift?

Reading oil change tips in the threads, thanks.

What I haven't come across is I don't have any equipment. On a NAS D90, non-lifted, is there enough clearance to perform an oil change while the truck is on the ground?

Being a daily driver during the spring/summer/fall months on a regular suburban commute, does about a change every 3000 miles sound about right?
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  #2  
Old June 1st, 2014, 09:09 AM
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Yes, you can change the oil in your driveway... Use synthetic and change it every 3-5000 miles.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 09:54 AM
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You will get a million different opinions on motor oil, but I use non-synthetic Rotella 15w40 with a Genuine filter. The only tools you should need would be an oil drain pan, a funnel, 1 1/8" wrench, and some oil filter pliers.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 10:15 AM
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dont remove the drain plug completely, let it drain a bit before you do
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Old June 1st, 2014, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
dont remove the drain plug completely, let it drain a bit before you do
So it doesn't splatter everywhere? If you change the oil when the engine is cold it the oil won't hit the exhaust. If you drain it when the engine is hot, the oil will hit the exhaust and can be a big mess.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 10:34 AM
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If you use synth you don't ever need to change the oil. One fill of synth is good for about 20,000 or more. Probably more like 50K, but without sending a sample to a lab, it would be better to err on the shorter side. My FIL would put in Mobil 1 in a new mini van after the engine broke in and that was it. Never touched it until he traded it in 5 years or so later.
Regular oils can go between 5 and 10 without any issue. Possibly as much as 15K.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
So it doesn't splatter everywhere? If you change the oil when the engine is cold it the oil won't hit the exhaust. If you drain it when the engine is hot, the oil will hit the exhaust and can be a big mess.
Can you explain why the difference between hot and cold?

------ Follow up post added June 1st, 2014 10:41 AM ------

I've also read that you fill the new oil filter with oil before you install it so as not to lose priming
of the pump. Not having been under the truck (in the shop now for a leaky brake caliper), how far from the top do you fill the oil so as not to spill it when you put it on? Is there a rubber gasket that comes with the filter or is it sold separately?

I'm OCD as you can see; the more details, the better.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymc226 View Post
Can you explain why the difference between hot and cold?

------ Follow up post added June 1st, 2014 10:41 AM ------

I've also read that you fill the new oil filter with oil before you install it so as not to lose priming
of the pump. Not having been under the truck (in the shop now for a leaky brake caliper), how far from the top do you fill the oil so as not to spill it when you put it on? Is there a rubber gasket that comes with the filter or is it sold separately?

I'm OCD as you can see; the more details, the better.
The drain plug is aimed right at the converter, so when the oil is hot, it flows more easily out of the drain plug and hits the exhaust. Its not a big deal, just can be messy. When the oil is cold the oil flows more slowly out of the sump and just barely misses the exhaust.

------ Follow up post added June 1st, 2014 10:48 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If you use synth you don't ever need to change the oil. One fill of synth is good for about 20,000 or more. Probably more like 50K, but without sending a sample to a lab, it would be better to err on the shorter side. My FIL would put in Mobil 1 in a new mini van after the engine broke in and that was it. Never touched it until he traded it in 5 years or so later.
Regular oils can go between 5 and 10 without any issue. Possibly as much as 15K.
There would be no oil left in the motor if you did this.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ymc226 View Post

I've also read that you fill the new oil filter with oil before you install it so as not to lose priming of the pump.
Not necessary.
This is right from the 3.9 owners manual:

With the engine oil thoroughly warm to assist drainage and with the vehicle safely parked on firm, level ground, remove oil filler cap and position a suitable receptacle for the old oil under the drain plug in the bottom left side of the sump.

Remove the drain plug and its copper washer and allow the old oil to drain completely, into a container for safe and proper disposal.
On completion of draining, clean the plug and its mating surface on the sump before securely refitting the plug complete with a new copper washer.

Replenish the engine with fresh oil of the correct grade and quantity(as specified in the data section of this book) through the filler tube, allowing time to obtain a true reading on the dipstick. When the correct level of oil is shown on the dipstick, replace the filler cap.

To avoid draining the oil pump, it is essential that the engine is filled with oil to the correct level before the filter is removed. It is therefore recommended that the renewal of the engine oil is completed before work on the filter commences.

Clean the area around the filter head, and place a container beneath the engine. Using a strap spanner or similar tool, unscrew the filter and discard it.

Smear the seal of the new filter with clean engine oil and screw on the filter clockwise until it is secure in position. Use hand force only and avoid overtightening.

Start and run the engine to fill the oil filter with oil. Do not rev the engine until the oil pressure warning lamp is extinguished.
Check for leaks.

Stop the engine, wait a few minutes, then check the oil level and top up if necessary.



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Old June 1st, 2014, 12:03 PM
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ive always drained refilled the sump then r&r the filter, refilling the filter helps to prime the pump and get oil flowing quicker.

wrt the drain plug, ive made it to the inside of the wheel and brake rotor with oil.
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Old June 1st, 2014, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post

wrt the drain plug, ive made it to the inside of the wheel and brake rotor with oil.
Me, too.

I've also managed to soak half my arm the first few years.

The one redeeming factor about the D2...the oil drain plug!


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  #12  
Old June 2nd, 2014, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
You will get a million different opinions on motor oil, but I use non-synthetic Rotella 15w40 with a Genuine filter. The only tools you should need would be an oil drain pan, a funnel, 1 1/8" wrench, and some oil filter pliers.
Can you elaborate on why you 'swear' by the genuine filter? It seems that any filter recommended by any part supplier according to LR specs would be ok.
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 01:33 AM
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Assuming you have a 3.9L V8 , conventional Castrol GTX 10W-30
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGmotors View Post
Can you elaborate on why you 'swear' by the genuine filter? It seems that any filter recommended by any part supplier according to LR specs would be ok.
I don't "swear" by them, its just what I've always used for the most part. I work at a dealership, so when I need a filter I just walk into the parts department and ask for one. I couldn't tell you if one filter works better than another.
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 07:45 AM
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After leaving evidence of being a LR owner on my drive many times the wife bought me one of these : http://www.difflock.com/oilsandadditives/drain-plugs
or in USA :http://www.nospillsystems.com/products-parts
or goggle femco drain plug.

now it's just unscrew the cap and screw on the elbow and pipe and let it drain into an empty container no mess.!

regards

Gren
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 09:01 AM
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Chris Davis
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I have a piece of thin sheet metal, about 10"x10", which is slightly curved. I jam it up between the exhaust and the drain-- then just position a pan under it and unscrew the plug letting it fall out into the pan. Oil shoots out, hits the concave side of the sheet metal, then runs down it draining into the pan. Done it this way for years-- I'll shoot some pics if anyone is interested-- but it is super simple. IMHO opinion, you should always drain warm oil as I believe you will get more crap out, particularly particles that may have settled on the bottom that could more easily flow out when warm/hot.

As for frequency, I check my oil via the dip stick and when it is dark from particulate absorption, I change it. Usually in the 2k-4k mile range. I don't really care about the mileage. But waiting 20,000 miles seems ludicrous to me-- your oil be functioning, but it doesn't mean it's still good and I can feel the difference between new and old oil between my finger tips. In new cars, I don't see the same discoloration as you see with the 215 engines most of us run. And I know it isn't just my engine that shows this particle absorbtion-- I've worked on loads of rovers, and have 3 of them, and have rebuilt many engines and built some from scratch, just like many of the folks here.

I use good filters, both genuine, mopar, and k&N. I typically either use Mobile one synthetic or Rotella. Changing oil will do only good things in the long run. The frequency of change can be dictated by many things, including finances so the final decision is yours. In general, I'd say every 2-4k miles is a decent rule of thumb to me, but again, I wait until it is pretty dark regardless.
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 09:14 AM
ymc226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davis View Post
I have a piece of thin sheet metal, about 10"x10", which is slightly curved. I jam it up between the exhaust and the drain-- then just position a pan under it and unscrew the plug letting it fall out into the pan. Oil shoots out, hits the concave side of the sheet metal, then runs down it draining into the pan. Done it this way for years-- I'll shoot some pics if anyone is interested-- but it is super simple. IMHO opinion, you should always drain warm oil as I believe you will get more crap out, particularly particles that may have settled on the bottom that could more easily flow out when warm/hot.

As for frequency, I check my oil via the dip stick and when it is dark from particulate absorption, I change it. Usually in the 2k-4k mile range. I don't really care about the mileage. But waiting 20,000 miles seems ludicrous to me-- your oil be functioning, but it doesn't mean it's still good and I can feel the difference between new and old oil between my finger tips. In new cars, I don't see the same discoloration as you see with the 215 engines most of us run. And I know it isn't just my engine that shows this particle absorbtion-- I've worked on loads of rovers, and have 3 of them, and have rebuilt many engines and built some from scratch, just like many of the folks here.

I use good filters, both genuine, mopar, and k&N. I typically either use Mobile one synthetic or Rotella. Changing oil will do only good things in the long run. The frequency of change can be dictated by many things, including finances so the final decision is yours. In general, I'd say every 2-4k miles is a decent rule of thumb to me, but again, I wait until it is pretty dark regardless.
Thanks Chris,

Yes, please post pictures as I'd like to have any oil blocking piece ready before I start.

When you mean warm oil, do you have to wait a while after you drive it at temp before you change the oil as it would be too hot otherwise? I just don't want to be scalded if the oil shoots out onto me.
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 09:28 AM
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Chris Davis
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I never do it right after I drive for a while-- the exhaust, cats and oil are too hot-- I either only drive a little or wait for some time, maybe 1/2 hour, hard to tell. If everything feels hot down there, then wait. You would definitely risk burns or fire-- that's no good. Often I'll let the truck sit for 40 minutes or so then start it for a minute to circulate stuff, shut it down, climb under and change it.

Here is a pic of the sheet metal-- it is junk scrap, actually a piece of aluminum that was a reflector in a light fixture. I think it jams between the oil pan and the exhaust, but I'll have to go under the truck to recall for sure. Doesn't matter-- just wedge it however in front of the drain-- the curvature help keep it stuck.
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  #19  
Old June 2nd, 2014, 09:29 AM
ymc226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gren_T View Post
After leaving evidence of being a LR owner on my drive many times the wife bought me one of these : http://www.difflock.com/oilsandadditives/drain-plugs
or in USA :http://www.nospillsystems.com/products-parts
or goggle femco drain plug.

now it's just unscrew the cap and screw on the elbow and pipe and let it drain into an empty container no mess.!

regards

Gren
Thanks Gren,

Do you happen to know what version (standard or compact) and what drain version (straight, 45, or 90 degree) you use?
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Old June 2nd, 2014, 09:35 AM
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For the oil jet out of the pan, I have a two liter pop bottle that I cut half the bottom off of making a nice little notch. As I pull the drain plug that goes into place and redirects the oil into the pan. Cheap easy and I always seem to have one laying around.
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