Oil change, need to lift? - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Non-Technical Discussions > Misc. Chit-Chat


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old June 2nd, 2014, 02:56 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
For the oil jet out of the pan, I have a two liter pop bottle that I cut half the bottom off of making a nice little notch. As I pull the drain plug that goes into place and redirects the oil into the pan. Cheap easy and I always seem to have one laying around.
I use the box the oil filter came in for the same purpose.
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old June 2nd, 2014, 03:03 PM
javelinadave
Status: Offline
-
-
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: -
Posts: 5,394
When I had my 97 I made a 90 degree deflector out of 2" PVC. It kept the mess to a minimum.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old June 21st, 2014, 07:24 PM
ymc226
Status: Offline
Lawrence
1995 D90 SW NAS
Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA
Posts: 151
Just a few more questions:

My '95 NAS Defender's 3.9 engine block cracked due to overheating and was replaced with a 4.0L block but the heads were reworked and reused from the original block. Regarding the copper sump washer, on Rover's North, 2 different washer sizes are offered in their Proline line depending on engine size. I want to confirm that I should be ordering the washers for the 4.0 engine. Also is this copper washer only available through Land Rover parts specialists or can I get them though NAPA, Pep Boys or Autozone?

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...e=3&eq=&key=it



http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...e=3&eq=&key=it

I plan on using the NAPA Gold 1068 filter although someone mentioned the large NAPA 1452 is better. Any reason why a large filter would be better?

I know I'm overthinking the oil and will probably go with Castor GTX 10W30 or Rotella T 15W40 but this webpage ranked performance and protection of several oils and the Valvoline VR1 Racing Conventional ranked highly. Any thoughts?

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=35836
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old June 22nd, 2014, 10:06 AM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,525
Registry
Vr1 has the most zinc, it doesn't have the detergents that the other oils do. 1452 Holds nearquartt of oil, has a larger filter area go figure. Rotella is a good oil, I've been using Amsoi 10w40 w/ zin. I've been using the same copper washer for 10 years.
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old June 22nd, 2014, 10:35 AM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,235
Registry
I would probably use the Rotella. Hopefully is will reduce cam wear. The problem here is basically nobody is doing oil analysis, so they really have zero clue if the oil is working well or not. These are old engine designs and they wear out. I have a friend that does do oil analysis on his and the wear numbers are 3 to 4 times higher than any modern engine I've seen.

I've never seen a need to replace oil plug washers on any car. Leaks from the drain plug are the last place you will see. It will leak from everywhere else. It is the English rust proofing system.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old June 22nd, 2014, 06:04 PM
ymc226
Status: Offline
Lawrence
1995 D90 SW NAS
Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Princeton, NJ, USA
Posts: 151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I would probably use the Rotella. Hopefully is will reduce cam wear. The problem here is basically nobody is doing oil analysis, so they really have zero clue if the oil is working well or not. These are old engine designs and they wear out. I have a friend that does do oil analysis on his and the wear numbers are 3 to 4 times higher than any modern engine I've seen.

I've never seen a need to replace oil plug washers on any car. Leaks from the drain plug are the last place you will see. It will leak from everywhere else. It is the English rust proofing system.
Thanks again John,

I just found out from the prior owner that he used synthetics exclusively (Mobil 1 0W40 and Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W40) and the engine doesn't leak oil at all. Would it be reasonable to continue with the same synthetics and not change to the conventional and diesel Rotella T which I was planning? I'll not replace the oil plug washer.

------ Follow up post added June 22nd, 2014 06:06 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Vr1 has the most zinc, it doesn't have the detergents that the other oils do. 1452 Holds nearquartt of oil, has a larger filter area go figure. Rotella is a good oil, I've been using Amsoi 10w40 w/ zin. I've been using the same copper washer for 10 years.
Thanks Phillip,

Is it harder to install the 1452 which is an in longer than the 1068 filter? I just looked under the car and it seems there is a bar which runs near the filter and impede installation.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old June 22nd, 2014, 06:40 PM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,525
Registry
Its easy, the only hard part of an oil filter change is if there is a steering guard fitted. Mobi. 10W40 high mileage is about as good as you can gett, it may still have more anti wear additives than the rotella.I like the amsoilAmsoil its cheaper than mMobil if you buy a case or two at the time
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old June 22nd, 2014, 06:54 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,235
Registry
The problem is the Mobil 1 is not great for the flat tappets. My friend was getting the really high wear numbers with the Mobil 1. If you want to stay synthetic, use a diesel synthetic. Shell Rotella T6, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, Mobil Delvac 1, that sort of thing. There is probably not much to gain with a synthetic in these engine as they dirty the oil quickly and you need to change due to that instead of oil breakdown. The only exception would be use in cold climates where the better cold viscosity characteristics are advantageous.

The best is probably one of the specialty oils that has lots of zddp or use a zddp additive. It would be nice to see a broader sample of oil analysis on these engines with different oils. That would help to see which ones are working better.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old February 24th, 2015, 02:14 PM
Greenbull's Avatar
Greenbull
Status: Offline
Mark Miller
1994 Defender 90NAS #1258
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Charlotte,NC
Posts: 1,043
Registry
Which oil filters are preferred for 300 TDI? Besides genuine. Overlander and I were having a discussion about how poorly FRAM filters work, for example. I was curious as to any common consensus here on the board?
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old February 24th, 2015, 06:49 PM
Jymmiejamz's Avatar
Jymmiejamz
Status: Offline
Jimmy
1995 D90 SW #365
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 3,468
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbull View Post
Which oil filters are preferred for 300 TDI? Besides genuine. Overlander and I were having a discussion about how poorly FRAM filters work, for example. I was curious as to any common consensus here on the board?
How do you determine that a filter, such as FRAM, is working poorly?
__________________
Car Camping Collective founding member and Treasurer
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old February 24th, 2015, 06:58 PM
leastonce's Avatar
leastonce
Status: Offline
Jason England
D-90 White 95 SW #65
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 6,078
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
How do you determine that a filter, such as FRAM, is working poorly?
The Internet.
__________________
Quote:
Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
Car Camping Collective founding member and Chief Executive Officer
Cat Camping Collective founding member and Chief Executive Officer
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old February 24th, 2015, 07:39 PM
rover4x4's Avatar
rover4x4
Status: Offline
Phillip
1995 SW #487/500
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: The Old North State
Posts: 7,525
Registry
Bobistheoilguy.com
__________________
Poor gas mileage gets you to the best places on earth
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Non-Technical Discussions > Misc. Chit-Chat

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
taking oil level after oil change josh-man Defender Technical Discussions 5 May 8th, 2013 11:44 PM
oil change/oil cooler line change sirjond Defender Technical Discussions 12 January 25th, 2013 03:01 PM
Sick Of Messy Oil Change javelinadave Defender Technical Discussions 17 October 12th, 2004 09:28 PM
OIL...oil...oil... norros Defender Technical Discussions 20 August 22nd, 2004 01:30 AM
Oil Change Screw-up zed111 Defender Technical Discussions 9 July 19th, 2004 11:48 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:55 PM.


Copyright