NAS D90 frame isn't as heavy as I thought it would be - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 12th, 2014, 12:15 PM
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Talking NAS D90 frame isn't as heavy as I thought it would be

I thought I wouldn't be able to move it around myself but I was able to slide it off the uhaul safely until I had a friend come over and helped me move it into position. I'm guessing It weighs around 500lbs. Finally got it near the D90, now its time to start installing them tasty Chinese terrafirma front and rear trailing arms and shock towers.
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  #2  
Old February 12th, 2014, 12:23 PM
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I'm going to take apart the front end only to expose the engine better, than buy a harbor freight boom crane lift thingy..whatever they call it and use 55 gallon drums on the back end. I'm going to have several friends help me lift the rear tub onto a 2x2 bar to support the rear. Than roll the frame out and begin the parts swap. I have a brand new tasty 4.6 to drop in as well.
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Old February 12th, 2014, 12:49 PM
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I thought you curled more that.
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  #4  
Old February 12th, 2014, 12:54 PM
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The most I ever curled is 235 on a straight bar. (with swinging of course) I use to bench 530 but now I'm old so lately the most I can do is about 455 now. I'm really excited about starting my build finally. I've been busy at work but now that the gf moved back to NY I'm going to try to squeeze in at least a few hours of wrench time a week.
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Old February 12th, 2014, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
I thought I wouldn't be able to move it around myself but I was able to slide it off the uhaul safely until I had a friend come over and helped me move it into position.
I'm assuming this friend was Barry?
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  #6  
Old February 12th, 2014, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
I'm assuming this friend was Barry?


Gayness aside, does anyone have any advice as to how I should deal with the serial plate? Should I plasma cut the plate off than weld it onto my new frame or just leave it as is?
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  #7  
Old February 12th, 2014, 01:50 PM
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Britpart?

No way anything is lining up on that thing. Steal a box of chop sticks from your parent's restaurant. You are going to need something for shims.

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2014 10:53 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
Gayness aside, does anyone have any advice as to how I should deal with the serial plate? Should I plasma cut the plate off than weld it onto my new frame or just leave it as is?
I would buy a die set and re-stamp.

Horsey can you fly out so Neil can use your legs as jack stands. They are perfect. Super strong and only two feet off the ground.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #8  
Old February 12th, 2014, 01:54 PM
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Also I was surprised the transmission cross member wasn't included. Luckily mine is still ok, just need to get it galvanized.

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2014 10:56 AM ------

[QUOTE=bjf;507148]Britpart?

No way anything is lining up on that thing. Steal a box of chop sticks from your parent's restaurant. You are going to need something for shims.

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2014 10:53 AM ------



Do you know anyone that had issues with the britpart frame? I thought worse case scenario I might have to enlarge a hole or 2 with drill bits.
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  #9  
Old February 12th, 2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Britpart?

No way anything is lining up on that thing. Steal a box of chop sticks from your parent's restaurant. You are going to need something for shims.
They are built by Richards or Marsland and just resold by BP.
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Old February 12th, 2014, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bjf View Post
Britpart?

No way anything is lining up on that thing. Steal a box of chop sticks from your parent's restaurant. You are going to need something for shims.

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2014 10:53 AM ------



I would buy a die set and re-stamp.

Horsey can you fly out so Neil can use your legs as jack stands. They are perfect. Super strong and only two feet off the ground.

You're in prime form.
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  #11  
Old February 12th, 2014, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
They are built by Richards or Marsland and just resold by BP.
Makes sense.

Neil,

Let me know if you find a local galvanizer. I need to galvanize everything on my truck. I have some really harsh conditions in my garage and I need my truck to be protected.
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Are there shocks that I can addjust up and down like my friends LX460? That would be very cool!
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  #12  
Old February 12th, 2014, 02:08 PM
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Barry sarcasm aside, there actually is some rust on my crossmember, on the flat ends that mount to the chassis. Nothing real serious but I guess if I don't galvy I could just paint it with silver rattle can.
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Old February 12th, 2014, 02:27 PM
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Keep the old front horn with the VIN. You'll probably need it if you're ever questioned about the missing or self-inflicted VIN over the galvanizing of your new chassis.
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Old February 12th, 2014, 02:34 PM
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You will want the new frame inspected by the CHP. They will want to see the old vin number (if possible) a receipt and proof of origin for the new frame. Then they will either stamp the vin on, or provide you with the paperwork to show that the frame swap was done legally (that part I wasn't clear on).
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  #15  
Old February 12th, 2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
Barry sarcasm aside, there actually is some rust on my crossmember, on the flat ends that mount to the chassis. Nothing real serious but I guess if I don't galvy I could just paint it with silver rattle can.

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...AS-GALV&key=it
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  #16  
Old February 12th, 2014, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
Keep the old front horn with the VIN. You'll probably need it if you're ever questioned about the missing or self-inflicted VIN over the galvanizing of your new chassis.


Thanks, great idea actually. If anyone wants the good parts they can come over when its ready to strip.

------ Follow up post added February 12th, 2014 11:51 AM ------



Mine is still good, just surface rust on the parts that the factory didn't paint. I'm just going to galvy or paint, depending on how far and how much. Thanks for the link though.
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A guy told me one time "don't let yourself get attached to anything you are not willing to walk out on in 30 seconds flat if you feel the heat from around the corner"

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  #17  
Old February 12th, 2014, 03:09 PM
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Instead of silver paint why not just spray it with cold galvanizing paint? Buy it at one of the big box hardware stores in the spray can aisles.
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  #18  
Old February 12th, 2014, 03:17 PM
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Is the NAS crossmember different that normal 90s? New galv ones are less than $100.
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  #19  
Old February 12th, 2014, 03:23 PM
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Is the NAS crossmember different that normal 90s? New galv ones are less than $100.
yes, V8 cats need to run under the crossmember. Tdi crossmember are squared at the bottom.
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  #20  
Old February 12th, 2014, 03:27 PM
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