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  #41  
Old June 5th, 2008, 01:55 PM
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Excellent thread.
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  #42  
Old June 5th, 2008, 04:34 PM
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After Noahs explanation of loosing the smoke. Lets take it a step further. This is the real trick. I'll try to explain it slowly so as not to confuse.

If we can get the EGT to stabilize at 1200 to 1300 75 miles an hour-the truck is a rocketship. Agreed? Extra fueling from stock and very driveable when power is needed.

So at 65 mile an hour there will be signs of smoke at the tailpipe. More fuel then needed. Adjust the base of the spring for the boost diaphragm upwards. This increases preload which will require more boost-more air-to give the enrichment signal. Increase the height of the base until smoke clears at 65 mile an hour. Increase it even more until you feel drive ability suffer. Then bring it back slowly and stop before it trys to smoke at 65 mile an hour.

65 mile an hour is your new cruising speed for mpg captain. You have effectively tricked yourself into conserving fuel. Pulse and glide. And other methods will further enhance your new frugal self.

Later you will get one piece wheel covers to improve airflow. And back off the parking brake "just to be sure" A tire gauge will hang from the rear view mirror. You will invoke the "Laws of attraction" and find yourself looking for things to spend the money you save on fuel expense compared to before. Ask-Believe-Receive.

I am accepting donations to my paypal account-pendy@pixius.net

Soon I will ask to sell one piece wheel cover in the vendors loft as well. What is a fair price?
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  #43  
Old June 5th, 2008, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Soon I will ask to sell one piece wheel cover in the vendors loft as well. What is a fair price?
I'm thinking $100 for a set of four. What size wheels you running Jim?
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  #44  
Old June 5th, 2008, 06:13 PM
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Perhaps a concise explanation of the order of pump adjustments would be handy and how far and why to adjust each item (not the how as that is in other locations..). Many of the guides confuse within themselves of too many adjustments at the same time that all affect each other. For instance, would you start by adjusting the fuel power screw to set maximum EGTs, then adjust other points to control smoke?

Also some clarification on terminology would help. For instance, when talking about the angular position of the diaphram/eccentic enrichment pin. Are we agreeing that 3 oclock is the maximum enrichment point, so 9 oclock is the minimum? I worry that different people are using different reference points.

Thanks for your time Jim.
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  #45  
Old June 5th, 2008, 07:22 PM
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This is how I had it set up.
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  #46  
Old June 5th, 2008, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revor
I'm thinking $100 for a set of four. What size wheels you running Jim?
Should be rolling on 18's soon. While they make chips for my custom 20's

Those might just work. Got any flat sets to run with the steelies?

Be good for the trail to keep scuff off my bling as well.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
Perhaps a concise explanation of the order of pump adjustments would be handy and how far and why to adjust each item (not the how as that is in other locations..). Many of the guides confuse within themselves of too many adjustments at the same time that all affect each other. For instance, would you start by adjusting the fuel power screw to set maximum EGTs, then adjust other points to control smoke?

Also some clarification on terminology would help. For instance, when talking about the angular position of the diaphram/eccentic enrichment pin. Are we agreeing that 3 oclock is the maximum enrichment point, so 9 oclock is the minimum? I worry that different people are using different reference points.

Thanks for your time Jim.

Yes 3 o'clock is the max and 9 o'clock is the minimum.

I only mentioned clocking the diaphragm and adjusting its base to preload the diaphragm. Clock it to set EGT's and bring up the base to shut off excessive fueling for a certain speed.

I would call the preload screw above the diaphram the fuel power screw. And I would call the screw with a lock collar on it down by the delivery valves, the smoke screw. I did not call out for any adjustment to those yet. they can be used to fine tune driveability on the lower RPM after tuning for mpg. Or bring them up a bit prior to the other adjustments. The fuel power screw can be the main culprit for wasting fuel IMO. It is a touchy adjustment because it to easily overfuels at all rpm.

JP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
I'm using a Boost Valve to control the wastegate. A much better method than adjusting the actuator. Also keep in mind that the 200TDI is running a different turbo to the 300TDI.
You may still need to shorten your actuator rod. The boost valve only controls the cycle. The max of your cycle still needs to be set mechanically.
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  #47  
Old June 6th, 2008, 12:35 AM
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On the Boost Valve... it controls the max. http://www.boostvalve.com/ Basically it is a pressure relief valve that prevents any pressure from reaching the waste gate until the set pressure. It gives really clean peak boost control and is quick to adjust. Really great if you have a VNT for preventing spikes.

Anywho, the skies cleared. I mowed the grass, primed the sliders and played with the injection pump.

Clocked the diaphragm from noon to 2 o'clock which gave more boost and removed the plastic washer. Unfortunately, I also found out a little problem which is most likely tied to the 200TDI being setup for a lower boost. Even at 13 psi, the diaphragm rod is bottoming out in the pump housing. There was a little grease in there and it is quite obvious that the rod was pressing hard into it. So as it sits, there is no more fueling to be had above that pressure (or wherever it runs out of travel). The spring is green/purple if that means anything to you.

As it sits, I'm not seeing any visible smoke on full throttle and peak boost. Nice light smoke off boost fading off by maybe 10 psi. EGTs have not changed, still maxed out around 1150 F.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I would call the preload screw above the diaphram the fuel power screw. And I would call the screw with a lock collar on it down by the delivery valves, the smoke screw. I did not call out for any adjustment to those yet. they can be used to fine tune driveability on the lower RPM after tuning for mpg. Or bring them up a bit prior to the other adjustments. The fuel power screw can be the main culprit for wasting fuel IMO. It is a touchy adjustment because it to easily overfuels at all rpm.
OK bear with me here Jim. I've read this a few times and I'm confused.

Your naming convention is opposite to everyone else.

How does the preload screw above the diaphragm (you term the fuel power screw) affect fueling when on boost? Is it not just a stop that sets the position of the diaphragm when it has not yet moved. Once the diaphragm moves then it should have no effect, shouldn't it???
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  #48  
Old June 6th, 2008, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
How does the preload screw above the diaphragm (you term the fuel power screw) affect fueling when on boost? Is it not just a stop that sets the position of the diaphragm when it has not yet moved. Once the diaphragm moves then it should have no effect, shouldn't it???
Thats correct. It is the stop for the inverted funnel. "to easily overfuels at all rpms" Cross out the -at all rpms- part. Thats not what I really meant and I can see how it confuses the issue.

Its adjustment can make the vehicle seem quicker off the line. But if it is overadjusted the engine is never allowed to sip fuel at idle which is the biggest advantage of a diesel. The ability to run lean because it is compression ignition engine.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
On the Boost Valve... it controls the max. http://www.boostvalve.com/ Basically it is a pressure relief valve that prevents any pressure from reaching the waste gate until the set pressure. It gives really clean peak boost control and is quick to adjust. Really great if you have a VNT for preventing spikes.
I have worked with those before. As well as computer controlled boost valves. You have to set the max with the actuator rod. And then the boost valve will determine if the new max will be allowed. Its like setting up a turbocharger after replacing the center section. Variations of the acuator bracket fastenings effect what max boost is allowed.

You description of how your valve works seems contrary to what I am saying here. But I still recall a situation where a boost valve similar to what you describe, an inline pressure relief valve could not increase max boost. The actuator adjustment raised the limit. For what it is worth, I'll drop it now.
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  #49  
Old June 16th, 2008, 06:28 AM
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so....did anyone (not there) hit 30mpg yet?
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  #50  
Old June 16th, 2008, 12:28 PM
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I am going to try to post the injector information next week. Must be to rainy for Red to work!
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  #51  
Old June 17th, 2008, 04:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Must be to rainy for Red to work!
The monsoon ended last week. I've been busy with many other things, but fiddled some more with pump settings the other day and I'm happy now. Very little visible smoke under any conditions and as much power as I've ever had.

As stated, there is no reason for me to run above 12 psi ATM as the fueling diaphragm runs out of travel around there with the current spring. Fine with me as there is enough power. I'm doing a trip at the end of the month and can report mileage then. I've got a new VDO speedo in there and the odometer has been calibrated to be within .2%...

I still doubt I can get to 30 mpg without driving around 55 mph, which I would/will never do for a full tank, with the current gearing....but you never know.
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  #52  
Old June 18th, 2008, 06:57 AM
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This all prompted some fiddling with my heap. Had been running in a fully enriched state for some time. Ended up turning down the pre-boost (normally known as "smoke" screw") fuel a little, back to what would be 1/2 turn in. Increasing the boost pre-load a little, back to what would be about 6 clicks in from factory. Hasn't effected mileage noticably, but really have not had much hwy driving. Slower off the line, but dosen't offend so many ( smoke) when in stop and go traffic. Have the eccentric pin clocked at about 3pm. Full acceleration will still have tailgaters hitting the brakes so as to get out of the black cloud........65-75 is fine, but never was an issue anyhow.
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  #53  
Old June 20th, 2008, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
I can get an honest 23-24 consistently when driving conservatively. If my wife drives downhill in a tailwind, then 26 is possible.

The brits confuse everyone by quoting mileage in imperial gallons, which makes Tdi's appear to get 27-28 normally, then people over here prefer the statistic over the reality and quote the same figure. I think its the same process that leads people to believe that acetone or that little fan-shaped objects in your intake increases fuel milage. I'm always amazed how much belief and faith factors into what otherwise is a very simple calculation...
Here goes for confusion then - 32 mpg with imperial gallons and imperial miles driven around 60 mph on a long run, 29 - 31 normally over the last 100,000 miles on a 200 tdi ( more confusion)
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  #54  
Old June 20th, 2008, 05:59 AM
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1 Imperial gallon = 1.20095042 US gallon. Simply take the Brit's mpg and divide by 1.2 to get the US mpg. So Mike, you're 32 mpg translates to 26-27 mpg.

-Neil
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  #55  
Old June 20th, 2008, 05:50 PM
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My dads series truck with the little Perkins Prima TD has been getting 32 MPG on the highway. and if ou just keep it around town and under 40mph, it gets 40mpg... Really nice
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  #56  
Old June 21st, 2008, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDI Guy
My dads series truck with the little Perkins Prima TD has been getting 32 MPG on the highway. and if ou just keep it around town and under 40mph, it gets 40mpg... Really nice
That's amazing
US or imperial gallons?
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  #57  
Old June 21st, 2008, 08:33 AM
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US gallons. The series fuel tank seems to last him for ever. He is happy with that for sure.
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  #58  
Old June 21st, 2008, 04:41 PM
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I have been averaging 25mpg for the last two tanks.
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  #59  
Old July 8th, 2008, 02:04 PM
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The rebuilt 110 is returning 32 imperial mpg on 235/85's and a 1.44:1 transfer box with a best ever of 34
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  #60  
Old July 8th, 2008, 02:54 PM
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I'm getting 18 mpg out of my 2.8 TGV. Jim, do you think I could do better with adjustment?
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