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  #1  
Old July 6th, 2014, 10:19 AM
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Robert Davis
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Modular Roof Rack

We have a 110 2 door that I plan to use a short cab canvas on, but want to mount a Roof rack, so am just on the drawing board with the concept.

Am thinking of having poles that drop into the 4 body capping holes for hoops.
Then a rack fits into the 4 straight poles.
The rack will be tubular with slightly rounded corners with tabs welded inside to support a 1/4" aluminum plate flush with the top of the rack.
The aluminum plate will be machined to have holes in for quick release pins.
This will allow you to mount a roof tent, and anything else with mounting brackets that will be held by quick release pins.
This will allow quickly configuring the rack for camping and then quickly removing the tent and brackets.
With the 4 poles the entire rack will be easily removed as well to take advantage of the pickup.

Pull in the shop, lower the tent, drop in the quick release pins, put the empty water tank in place with the QR pins, hardig case brackets, what have you, and go.
You can leave the rack if you need to carry lumber or whatever when needed.

Any ideas to improve the design and overcome flaws that I haven't considered?
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  #2  
Old July 6th, 2014, 11:00 AM
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Ash Heller
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My only concern would be stability. You're limited to a 1" OD tube to fit into the hoes in the cappings, which unless you go really heavy wall, is going to deflect since you're running at least a 32" vertical to clear the roof of the truck. I'd engineer in some type of gusseting to keep it from feeling wobbly as you walk around on it.

Also spanning the length of the 110 bed you might encounter some sag in the rack if you're only running four legs and nothing in the center.

Otherwise it sounds like a pretty solid idea! Keep us updated as you develop everything.

-Ash
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  #3  
Old July 6th, 2014, 07:37 PM
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Charles Galpin
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On the tube you are not limited to other than the part that goes into the capping. With a little work the rest can be a larger diameter.
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  #4  
Old July 6th, 2014, 07:46 PM
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If your interested I have a 90 3/4 tilt & military roll hoop frame that might work for you. Drop us a PM and we can chat.
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  #5  
Old July 6th, 2014, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
On the tube you are not limited to other than the part that goes into the capping. With a little work the rest can be a larger diameter.
That's true. You could use a larger diameter tube with a 1" dowel to index into the capping. Didn't think of that as an option.

-Ash
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  #6  
Old July 7th, 2014, 01:37 PM
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Robert Davis
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Thanks for the input.
Will use it accordingly as the design improves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Landy_Andy View Post
If your interested I have a 90 3/4 tilt & military roll hoop frame that might work for you. Drop us a PM and we can chat.
The distance for shipping is a concern, but PM sent anyway.
You are always very helpful.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #7  
Old July 20th, 2014, 11:16 AM
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Robert Davis
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For the 110 pickup...

So have designed a frame with rounded corners.
The rack outer edge: 2" X 1/4" steel (sideways) with the ends rounded.
1/4" below the outer edge is a 1.25" "tray" also made of 1/4" steel outer edge rounded welded to the rack outer edge.

The tray will have several cross braces side to side - front to back (undetermined how many or of what material).

Inside the tray will be a sheet of bolted down 1/4" aluminum with "rows" of offset holes.

Welded to the inside of the outer edge will be 4 pieces of 1 3/4" long pipe (large enough to take a 2" pipe OD) sort of in the corners) (schedule 40?). The top of the pipe will be just underneath the aluminum frame. These are the rack receiver pipes.

The rack is supported by 4 pipes (schedule 40 2" ?) that go between the rack and the body capping held in by quick release pins or pins with a spring cotter.
The top end has a lip that lets the support pipe slide into the rack receiver pipe a predetermined length.
The bottom end has a flat foot that sits on the body capping with small support gussets with a bottom receiver pipe the same size as the rack receiver pipe. The bottom has a solid piece that fits through the pipe in body capping and is held in with a quick release or pin with spring cotter.

The outer rack edge will have holes to fasten tie downs of bungies.
There will be circular cut outs in the aluminum that allow tie down straps to reach through the aluminum to the cross braces that are undetermined at this time.
The holes in the outer side edge are spaced and large enough to bold galvanized eyes for outside straps.

All steel is galvanized.

A roof top tent, water tank, hardig case, jerry can receiver with brackets, whatever can be strapped down or can have brackets that are held in place by quick release pins that utilize the holes in the aluminum.

With no gear the rack can move lumber or what ever.

The whole rack can be unpinned and lifted off... taken off off roading and used to support a roof tent and is easily stored in the garage on it's side with the legs removed.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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