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  #21  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 05:34 PM
Ben01
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If the fuel pump is whining, it is not the pump. It is very hard to get diesel right now so be careful how far you go. If the pump is whining, it means it is on its way out to begin with. I actually have an extra if you need it, but that is another conversation.

Purging the fuel line (by I think pumping the pedal with the ignition in run position) will not do it. The fuel pump may whine more but you wont get the engine on in this case.

It could be a relay, check the ones under the driver's seat.

It is possible that it is a fuel filter, but the one time my filter was bad in the 300tdi, I was able to get the truck to start. I have changed the filters regularly in the td5 so don't know from experience.

Do you have an alarm or remote central? I would guess it actually has something to do with your alarm (if you have one). If the alarm is not disengaging and the fuel is low, I think the pump would start whining and the truck would not start. Try another remote if you do have remote central locking. The alarm could also be using up too much power from the battery.

Lastly, take your battery out and bring it to an auto store to be tested. It could be a bad battery. If you search bad battery in a td5 in the British forums it does happen more frequently than on a 300tdi.

Hope this helps...my first guess would be the battery so keep that in mind. I highly doubt it is the ECU.


Ben

------ Follow up post added November 2nd, 2012 05:36 PM ------

A really can go bad without corrosion.
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  #22  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 06:03 PM
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Tim Golden
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It definitely sounds like the immobilizer.
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  #23  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 07:18 PM
Ben01
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I'm just not sure the fuel pump would turn on with the immobiliser (or alarm as I called it) still engaged. Get your battery tested and charged and try a different remote as the immediate first steps. If the battery is fine you can also follow the instructions in the owner's manual to disable the alarm.

Also, I once had an issue with a low battery, but the fob wouldn't lock/unlock the doors...once it unlocked the doors the truck started immediately. So if it is working to unlock your truck, it is likely not the battery.
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  #24  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 07:44 PM
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Mark M
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Kolton - some data to help you hopefully rule out the immobilizer. My truck is a 99. Speedo red light flashes before getting in, goes solid with the door open, and flashes again once the door is shut, until the key is turned, then goes out. Yellow engine light illuminates briefly in key position two then goes out. I separated my key from the FOB and tried it again. The red engine light with the lightening bolt illuminated when I turned the key. So based on your posting, should be able to rule out the immobilizer. Battery? Ignition switch? If it's not turning over it has nothing to do with the ECU. Hope this helps. Mark
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  #25  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 08:59 PM
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yes mark thank you.....my truck goes thru the exact same sequence as yours.......i think the ECU and immobilizer are fine.

like i said, never had a problem, drove home, turned truck off, got back in truck literally 3 minutes later and it turned over but would not start.......i tried for about 30 seconds and then left it to sit for about 2 hours.
came back and turned it over for about another 30 seconds till the battery started to die.

I hooked up jumper cables and it turned over very enthusiastically and ALMOST started...got a little rumble out of it.

figured id let the battery charge up so i waited about 3 minutes and went to turn it over and now its totally dead as a doornail........

that was last night.....i stuck the key back in when i got home just to see and its the same....... I've had many dead battery and in my experience you usually get some sort of sluggish clicking or something.....im talking even hooked up with jumper cables to another truck its totally dead......

im gonna play around tomorrow in the day light and see if i can make any progress.....again thank you very very much....

it really is appreciated guys..
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  #26  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 09:10 PM
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im not ruling anything out.......i did fill up diesel at a pump that may have been underwater from sandy a few days prior......i understand that being a reason for the truck not to fire up......by why do i now have the problem of no turning over?

i feel like i have 2 problems now.....truck wont turn over.....once it turns over THEN it wont start.....

if it was turning over i think i could change fuel filter, bleed air and get it to start......
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  #27  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Kolton - I think you are on the right track. Get the truck to crank with some vigor first. Then see if you have another problem. I'm still betting on the battery.

Some ancillary information that may come in handy:

I've changed the fuel filter on my truck several times. I've just turned the key to position two, and let the pump do it's thing. You'll hear a high pitched sounds for a few seconds, and then it will return to the normal tone. It's just pushing the fuel to the engine and back to the tank and once any air is out the pump sound normal again. After that, position 3 on the switch and cranks right up.

Only the crank position sensor is needed for the truck to run. If any of the rest of the sensors are bad, the default settings will be used by the ECU. If the throttle position sensor is bad, the truck will start, but only idle.

I have a Nanocom. I'm hoping it doesn't come to this and you get it running tomorrow, but if you don't I would be glad to send it to you FEDEX on Monday to aide in the troubleshooting.

Mark
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  #28  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Your battery is most likely juiced. Search the Forums in the UK. For some reasons batteries have a greater tendency to go bad on a td5.
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  #29  
Old November 2nd, 2012, 11:43 PM
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if you only trying cranking twice for 30 seconds each and then it started showing signs of dying, thats a different story all together and I'm suspecting battery now too. I aas under impression you were cranking repeatedly for 5-10 minutes. two 30 second cranks is nothing for a healthy battery. you need a voltmeter or multimeter to confirm on the spot. check if yoir headlights come on fully bright or dim.

best of luck. battery is going to be easier to confirm and replace then anything else. maybe you have a friend or neighbor that will let you borrow a healthy battery just for a test. only takes 10 to pull a battery.
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  #30  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 12:05 AM
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Scott Oncken
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When computers are involved a dieing battery can cause all sort of issues.

Step 1 check condition of battery
Step 2 check all fuses and relays
Step 3 check wire connections--especially to the starter
(It is possible to kill a starter if you crank it continuous for more than 30 seconds at a time....especially if the truck has some miles on it)

If all three things check out fine above you can use a jumper to activate the starter to see if it works at all. This would bypass your security system and at least let you know if the starter is working or not.

Good luck. Computerized trucks are great when they run, but mechanical engines are nicer to fix to in the field.
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  #31  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 12:09 PM
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still no luck

ok guys before i can even try all your great suggestions i need to figure out why this truck will not turn over.

the battery seems good to me......i have a charger hooked up that reads full, even with it hooked up i get nothing.

all the lights and dash and everything seems normal, immobilizer seems normal.
checked all the fuses they all seem to be good, checked all relays that i can find they all seem good.

looked for any loose wires, everything seems good.

when i turn the key i do hear a very very faint click coming from what sounds like behind the dash?


If there is anyone near asbury park NJ that could look at the truck im more then willing to pay......i even have gas or diesel if you need it.........
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  #32  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 12:53 PM
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If the battery died or got disconnected, you need to reset your alarm system. There's a procedure for this based on a security code that came with your vehicle where you open and close the door a number of times to enter this code. The owners manual should explain this. See photo below

I have a Nanocom you can borrow. I'm on the west coast though. Overnight shipping won't be cheap.
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  #33  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 05:18 PM
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update

1.
ok so its definetly not the battery......in frustration i went and bought a new battery...hooked it up and there is no diffrence.

2.
the faint clicking i hear is definetly just coming from the relay behind the gear shift. when i turn the key it goes click, just once......i swapped it with the same relay next to it and there is no diffrence.

3.
everything is normal and i really dont think its and ECU problem........


so any new thoughts on why the engine will not crank?
all the wires look good.....all the grounds seem to be good and tight......

Is there any wires i could have nocked loose around the engine that would cause the thing to not crank?

I did an oil change and air filter change last weekend........
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  #34  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 05:50 PM
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I think you need a multimeter to solve this. you need to check the starter solenoid and jump it to see if it engages seperate from all the other electronic ecu garbage. find the small wire going to starter and run staright to battery positive with long piece of wire to see if it will engage. your starter solenoid gear may even have got jammed on flywheel! thats happened to me before. the fix there is to move the rover while IN GEAR just a couple feet, then try to start normally.
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  #35  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 07:27 PM
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I sent my phone number via pm. There are 2 people in my area that can hook into the computer and see what is going on.

If you want the contact info call me.
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  #36  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
I sent my phone number via pm. There are 2 people in my area that can hook into the computer and see what is going on.

If you want the contact info call me.


PM SENT...will call in the morning.

------ Follow up post added November 3rd, 2012 09:35 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
I think you need a multimeter to solve this. you need to check the starter solenoid and jump it to see if it engages seperate from all the other electronic ecu garbage. find the small wire going to starter and run staright to battery positive with long piece of wire to see if it will engage. your starter solenoid gear may even have got jammed on flywheel! thats happened to me before. the fix there is to move the rover while IN GEAR just a couple feet, then try to start normally.


im in a bad spot to try and roll it.....rocking it wont move the flywheel i guess.....how have you moved it? tow it a few feet with a car? (im sorry if im asking dumb questions. Im learning)

second, run a small wire to the positive....do i need a certain gauge wire? should i connect to battery first and then just touch it to the starter?
could i hook my battery charger up to the starter?

thanks
Kolton
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  #37  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 10:24 PM
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mark kellgren
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if u had another car pull you fwd or back 2', that would be enough.

for the solenoid, you could jump it with 14 gauge I'd think, but do the push thing first.
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  #38  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 11:28 PM
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Sears and some auto parts stores sell a device that you can hook to the positive and to the starter the pull the trigger rather than trying to use a wire I always take one in my kit.
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  #39  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 11:39 PM
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perfect! i will go to sears and take a look for that....any idea what its called?

thanks
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  #40  
Old November 3rd, 2012, 11:46 PM
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Remote starter

wish you were around here, I have 2 and would loan you one
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