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  #101  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 10:12 PM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCocito View Post
My values are always changing depending on which accessorize I turn on.. Heater, wiper, blinker, etc. if I plug it in directly to the battery then it's fine, but then it's not a switched power source.. Where should I wire the gauge to? And also, the relay cable isn't triggering the fan when it says it should be.(it works if I provide the relay switch cable with current) Does the purple go directly to the relay switched cable? Thanks!
You have an engine ground problem. The voltage supply level is never a concern as the unit is designed to have variable voltage supply. If there is a difference between the unit ground and the sender ground, the readings will be wrong and vary with load on other users. It is best to run the EMS ground to the engine. Check that your engine to chassis ground is good.
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  #102  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
....vdo150 to replace my vdo gauge. I have the vdo sender 323-088.
That sender is a 120 C sender. You have the EMS set incorrectly. It should be set for VDO120.
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  #103  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PabloCocito View Post
And also, the relay cable isn't triggering the fan when it says it should be.(it works if I provide the relay switch cable with current) Does the purple go directly to the relay switched cable?

Thanks!
Purple switches ground. It should be connected to the ground side of the relay coil. Make sure the programming is correct to use that output for fan control and not for an alarm.
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  #104  
Old July 24th, 2016, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Purple switches ground. It should be connected to the ground side of the relay coil. Make sure the programming is correct to use that output for fan control and not for an alarm.
Ahhh okay makes sense now.. Now I just have to fix the ground issue...


Thanks!
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  #105  
Old August 20th, 2016, 11:28 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Finally getting around to installing mine. So far so good, but I'm not a fan of working with the small diameter wires the harness is made up of.

Has anyone tried hooking up to both oil pressure and boost? The site makes it sound like it's one of the other, but not both.
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  #106  
Old August 21st, 2016, 02:57 PM
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It's designed for one or the other--I imagine there might be a way to set up two pressure senders with a switch so you could toggle between the feeds, but you'd have to set the low oil pressure alarms pretty low to avoid having them go off when you are monitoring boost and idling... I plan to run a separate boost gauge and am using the madman for the really critical reading.


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  #107  
Old August 21st, 2016, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
It's designed for one or the other--I imagine there might be a way to set up two pressure senders with a switch so you could toggle between the feeds, but you'd have to set the low oil pressure alarms pretty low to avoid having them go off when you are monitoring boost and idling... I plan to run a separate boost gauge and am using the madman for the really critical reading.


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I was thinking the same thing except I can't find an electric vdo boost gauge but can find an electric vdo transmission pressure gauge. I don't want to run a boost hose into the cabin if I don't have to.
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  #108  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 11:25 AM
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Gerad Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
It's designed for one or the other--I imagine there might be a way to set up two pressure senders with a switch so you could toggle between the feeds, but you'd have to set the low oil pressure alarms pretty low to avoid having them go off when you are monitoring boost and idling... I plan to run a separate boost gauge and am using the madman for the really critical reading.


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That's what I figured regarding dual pressure readings. Oh well. I do have a boost gauge sitting on the shelf, which means another gauge to deal with.

I'm finding I need to fiddle with the low pressure alarm settings when feeding from the stock switch. My pressure is fine and the stock warning light goes off when I start the engine. I'm wondering what value you have your low setting at? I've read that the stock switch opens at 0.5bar.

My current mad scientist train of thought is using a second temp sender to read the boosted air temp and controlling the electrics in my air/water intercooler setup via the purple wire off the back of the EM2.
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  #109  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east high View Post
That's what I figured regarding dual pressure readings. Oh well. I do have a boost gauge sitting on the shelf, which means another gauge to deal with.

I'm finding I need to fiddle with the low pressure alarm settings when feeding from the stock switch. My pressure is fine and the stock warning light goes off when I start the engine. I'm wondering what value you have your low setting at? I've read that the stock switch opens at 0.5bar.

My current mad scientist train of thought is using a second temp sender to read the boosted air temp and controlling the electrics in my air/water intercooler setup via the purple wire off the back of the EM2.
Hmmm, the stock switch should only connect to the wire driving the alarm, not the wire driving the pressure reading. So, in the setup as designed, you should always be feeding two pressure feeds--an alarm feed (same one that operates the idiot light) and a pressure-measurement feed.

So is the alarm on the Madman activating even as the unit displays a non-alarming (couldn't resist) pressure reading?

If so, is it possible you have the switch type setting (which I recall dimly was the only option for that one feature) set incorrectly? (I don't remember if the stock switch is normally-open or normally-closed, but I do know I had to do some digging to figure it out and ensure the Madman was set appropriately)
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  #110  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 10:19 PM
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The low pressure switch closes on low pressure, thus letting the light turn on. The MadMan, if hooked up to the pressure switch will alarm on it closing.

The pressure gauge has its own alarm settings which you can adjust or turn off.
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  #111  
Old August 22nd, 2016, 11:24 PM
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I've read the stock switch is normally closed, which completes the circuit and illuminates the warning light. I'm hoping to align the EMS with the actual closed setting so that the alarms are in synch. I wasn't aware the optional oil pressure sender (grey wire) had its own alarm.

The blue wire from the EMS unit connects to the white/brown wire from the stock oil pressure switch. The grey wire is for the optional oil pressure sender. I have both set up correctly as far as I know - they both seem to be working as I'd expect. It now feels a bit redundant considering the stock warning light works and the EMS oil pressure sender is reading correctly and has its own alarm as well. I'll probably disconnect the blue wire for now.
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  #112  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east high View Post
I've read the stock switch is normally closed, which completes the circuit and illuminates the warning light. I'm hoping to align the EMS with the actual closed setting so that the alarms are in synch. I wasn't aware the optional oil pressure sender (grey wire) had its own alarm.

The blue wire from the EMS unit connects to the white/brown wire from the stock oil pressure switch. The grey wire is for the optional oil pressure sender. I have both set up correctly as far as I know - they both seem to be working as I'd expect. It now feels a bit redundant considering the stock warning light works and the EMS oil pressure sender is reading correctly and has its own alarm as well. I'll probably disconnect the blue wire for now.
Have you hooked both the EMS and the stock light to the same pressure switch? You should not do that!

Also do not use the pressure sender for the main alarm. They are not as reliable at reading very low pressures as the switch.
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  #113  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Have you hooked both the EMS and the stock light to the same pressure switch? You should not do that!



Also do not use the pressure sender for the main alarm. They are not as reliable at reading very low pressures as the switch.


I actually asked Brian Cotton re this issue, and he said both the blue wore and the stock wore should be connected to the stock sender, with the grey wore going to the VDO for actual readings. Essentially adds a Madman idiot light to your stock idiot light; fully intended to be redundant.

I hooked it up that way, and it's working great.


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  #114  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
I actually asked Brian Cotton re this issue, and he said both the blue wore and the stock wore should be connected to the stock sender, with the grey wore going to the VDO for actual readings. Essentially adds a Madman idiot light to your stock idiot light; fully intended to be redundant.

I hooked it up that way, and it's working great.


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Yep. That's how I understand it and it's working like this for me too. In fact everything is working fine for me.

I think some of my confusion was not knowing there is a second alarm state for the pressure sender. I also have just the one 'on' key position with my Series, unlike the Defender, so the alarm started screaming at me when I was just sitting there fiddlin' with things.
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  #115  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by east high View Post
I also have just the one 'on' key position with my Series, unlike the Defender, so the alarm started screaming at me when I was just sitting there fiddlin' with things.
Defenders only have one on position as well. At least mine does.
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  #116  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Defenders only have one on position as well. At least mine does.
So the alarms going off in the keyed 'on' position without the engine running is normal for everyone then.
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  #117  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 12:47 PM
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Yep but it is supposed to wait 30 seconds.
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  #118  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 12:57 PM
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Sounds right. Thanks. I think I have things sorted aside from some minor fiddling with the gauge settings.
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  #119  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 01:28 PM
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Defenders only have one on position as well. At least mine does.
nope. they have two. I just did some rewiring of my dash and accessories to better take advantage of them. position one (orange/white) is accessory. Radio, etc. Position two is ignition (green) for things like fuel pumps, gauges, fuel stop solenoid, etc. position three is starter.
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  #120  
Old August 23rd, 2016, 01:46 PM
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Not on my truck. Off - On - Glow (momentary) - Start. They probably added the accessory position to the later trucks.
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