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  #1  
Old February 27th, 2004, 11:54 PM
redrover

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Lt230rc

I recently installed a 230rc gear set from GBR. The install was unique to say the least. This mod would be a walk in the park if you have had any experience with removing the case and were familiar with the guts of the case. Both of which i had none. But it was a great science project, and everything worked out fine. I think the instructions were about two pages- which is about two pages to short. I think Maxidrive was a little vague on the grinding required. But i dont feel the grinding in anyway effects the strength of the case. I was able to test the setup in Moab last weekend. We ran three trails and the performance was sick. I have a 97 SW auto with 35s and 4:10s . My biggest grip with the rig before this mod was that I had to ride the brakes on all down grades. The truck after the RC kit could compression brake very nicely. I was impressed on the downride on moab rim. I only had to feather the brake on the ledges, otherwise the truck just mossied on down. If anyone is considering this mod -its deff worth it, although there are many tips that can make it the walk in the park . A mod well worth the time. JP
PS does anyone know what my final drive ratio is?
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  #2  
Old February 27th, 2004, 11:57 PM
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Mike Hippert
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PICS!!!!!




Quote:
there are many tips that can make it the walk in the park
And they would be?????



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Old February 28th, 2004, 07:01 PM
redrover

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XXX

Hey Mike, are you considering the kit? Here are a few tips.

^Get a LR mannual, It helps you with the removal of case. The Maxi instructions only deal with modifying case.
^My mannual said there were 4 bolts holding case to trans, but there are 6. a couple are hard to get at.
^Roller jack-I welded a angled adapter to bolt transfer to rollerjack. This will make removal effortless and minimize chance of damage to seal.
^I Left the truck on the garage floor, and that worked well with my creeper and reach.
^The nuts and bolts really piled up, so I started putting them in labeled ziplock bags.
^Be sure to drain case before you attach jack adapter, many of the transfer case bolts go through case.
^It is easier to remove and install case if you remove the gear/bearing cluster inside the PTO cover first.
^When you get case onto work bench you need to remove the entire emer brake housing and the front difflock housing. Also you will remove all linkage coverplates etc.
^The center differential shaft and orig bullgear pull out easy through the large opening. The intermediary cluster also removes easy.
^A bottle jack hydrolic press makes removing old bull gear/clutches/and bearings easy.
^I followed the directions for the grinding. The directions stated that the new bull gear would sit just one millimeter below the widest point on the lip. But when I pressed the new gear in place, it rubbed on the lip. Not good so i ground the lip about 2mm ish.
^The new bull gear is larger than the portal, so it is assembled inside case. This is not to difficult, but extra hands would be nice.
^When re-installing all the parts back on case- use plenty of THE RIGHTSTUFF on mating surfaces, also pre think out where the sealer needs to be -to prevent leaks. Atleast half of the bolt holes go through and into case.
^The intermediary gear cluster just slips in and a shaft run through the middle. Save the PTO gear install until after the case is bolted back to transmission.
^The process of removing the case initially involves removing many parts, such as entire exhaust system; driveshafts; multiplugs and wires; shift linkages; E brake cable;
hi-low shifter and inside console; parts to fan cowling to allow lowering case to access areas above and behind case; 3rd link arm etc.
^ I was able to complete entire job solo with the use of the floor jack and adapter. The adapter can be made out of mild steel and bolts to the rectangular inspection plate beneath case.
^I change my gear oil 3 times in a short period to remove any alluminum or steel particles.
^full set of ratcheting box wrenches; 1/2-3/8drivesockets and extensions.
jp
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  #4  
Old February 29th, 2004, 09:09 PM
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Mike Hippert
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Cool, I have replaced the T-case once myself and I know what a PITA all the other little things you have to do just to drop it down. I was more concerned with how hard the rest of the job is and what extra tools might be needed to do the job. I don't think I will be doing it anytime soon as I would definitely break more stuff with lower gearing, and my stock axles are really not strong enough for the 35s now. Thanks for the info!
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