LR3 windshield replacement PSA - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 19th, 2015, 11:28 PM
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LR3 windshield replacement PSA

SAFELIGHT SUCKS!

If you drive a LR3 and have your windshield replaced PLEASE make sure all the little plastic trees on the cowl are there and not broken. Safelight replaced our windshield earlier this year and really botched the job. They didn’t make me aware that 4 of the 8 clips were broken when they replaced the cowl. Ordinarily not a big deal, but on the LR3 the cowl seal needs to sit flush against the windshield. If not, when it rains the water roll right down the windshield into the cabin air intake (located directly above the passenger foot well).

The car is 10yrs old so I don’t hold Safelight responsible for the broken clips but I called them to make them aware of the importance of the windshield cowl sitting flush so some other poor sap doesn’t have this happen to them. I also mention that they placed the state inspection sticker down too low and it cannot be scrapped off (it’s beneath the center speaker). She says bring it in and we’ll take care of it.

We take it in, they replace the windshield and the stickers are where they should be. Big rain last week and the carpet is soaked. I take a look and they f’ed the job up again. This time they miss installed one of the BRAND NEW clips I bought, and it’s the one directly over the cabin intake. So after all my emails, phone calls, etc they still don’t get it right.

So, if you have a LR3 and have the windshield replaced make sure the job was done correctly or you’ll have headaches down the road.
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  #2  
Old September 19th, 2015, 11:36 PM
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I just had the windshield replaced on our lr3. Got it done by who the local rover dealer recommended. They failed to tighten the wipers enough so when it started to rain the wipers went haywire. Also we now hear a noise from I'm guessing is a loose trim.

Safelite did our bmw and it leaked every time it rained
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  #3  
Old September 19th, 2015, 11:55 PM
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Been there done that (well with the leak anyhow). The reality is, while they exacerbated the issue with a bad install - the real culprit is the faulty design by Rover having the air intake protrude past the windscreen.

It was corrected later in design on either the '07 or '08 model. Anyhow, do yourself a favor and cut a piece of tin or aluminum in a triangular shape and rightstuff it on that corner of the intake (just the offending corner, not the entire thing obviously). You will then be permanently leak free...ask me how I know . If you don't, even with a proper cowl install you'll still see it happen at some point I assure you.

I had Russell do his on his '06 as well and he actually took some pics, I'll see if I can dig them up.
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  #4  
Old September 20th, 2015, 12:22 AM
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Yep. Now waiting for the air suspension failure, parking brake failure, the coolant t-hose to blow its load that Jimmy has warned us all about. You get the idea. Purchase a new windshield cowl. It seals drum tight on the glass compared to UV damaged original ones that lift right over the vent, regardless of new clips or not. Thinking it was around $80. 15 minute job. You should have a set of body trim tools.
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  #5  
Old September 20th, 2015, 01:14 AM
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A good reminder since I had my cowl replaced right after purchasing due to the waterfall/canal effect on the passenger side but the windshield got a chip in it on the way to the boat so I am guessing when I get back to the U.S. I'll have to get get it replaced and then worry about the cowl all over again.

Coolant T is worth fixing, I switched it with this: Upgrade for silly plastic T fitting in hose for Land Rover LR3
Absurdly expensive compared to alternatives I'm sure but time was money at that moment and with the truck heading to 125+ ambient air temps I didn't feel like hunting around McMaster to find an equivalent that may/may not have worked.

I know a fix for the air suspension...but everyone says it makes the truck ride like shit and such (it doesn't...)
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  #6  
Old September 20th, 2015, 02:56 AM
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Safelite did a crap job on my first U.S. car. So it rusted from top of windshield where the seal didn't.
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  #7  
Old September 20th, 2015, 07:54 AM
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Safe lite sucks, I don't think they have installed a single windscreen correctly. That being said, you need a new cowl. The cowls warp and fail to make contact with the windscreen which can cause bigger issues down the road. Your pollen filter is probably also soaked.
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  #8  
Old September 20th, 2015, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Yep. Now waiting for the air suspension failure, parking brake failure, the coolant t-hose to blow its load that Jimmy has warned us all about. You get the idea. Purchase a new windshield cowl. It seals drum tight on the glass compared to UV damaged original ones that lift right over the vent, regardless of new clips or not. Thinking it was around $80. 15 minute job. You should have a set of body trim tools.
You're serious that you haven't replaced that coolant-T? DO IT NOW! This week my friend that has an '08 was getting small coolant leak so was going to bring it into a shop. I told him to let me look at it first. Pulled the top cover and sure enough it was wet at the junction. I barely - barely! - touched the T and the thing shattered like nothing I've ever seen...I don't think he would have made it to the shop, one bump and it would have been over.

He hopped in my truck, we hit Home Depot for one of the below 3/8 barbs....less than $2 and he was back on the road:
SharkBite, 3/8 in. Brass PEX Barb Coupling, UC006LFA at The Home Depot - Mobile

For a 5-minute fix and less than $2 I don't know why people are waiting until this blows on the road and leaves them stranded.

With the air compressor, most of the faults I've seen are because the silica in the drier disintegrates and air can't flow. I'd say get ahead of the curve and either replace the drier or even just put new silica beads in the current one (it seemed serviceable based on my findings).
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  #9  
Old September 20th, 2015, 08:57 AM
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I've been running a small bead of clear silicone along the rubber seal of the cowl at the glass after replacing the cowls.
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  #10  
Old September 20th, 2015, 08:59 AM
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Jason, has you replace an air drier on your LR3s EAS air suspension compressor? My wife's LR3 does not have any codes yet, but when the vehicle is not in use for a few days the suspension sits very low. Is there wrong with it?
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  #11  
Old September 20th, 2015, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
Jason, has you replace an air drier on your LR3s EAS air suspension compressor? My wife's LR3 does not have any codes yet, but when the vehicle is not in use for a few days the suspension sits very low. Is there wrong with it?
My symptoms were the compressor shutting off after 30-60seconds of running, coupled with the suspension error light. Same exact issue happened - ironically - to the same friend with the '08 mentioned above. Drier replacement solved both of these issues (neither vehicle was sitting low however).

Sitting low sounds like a leak - you can get some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray the air bags to see if you can see a leak (though that could be hard to see admittedly). Other possibilities are the inlet/outlet lines at the compressor if they are not pushed in adequately. I'm sure there are other potential causes as well, maybe Trevor and/or Jimmy will chime in. But if it's sitting low my thought would be an air leak somewhere is the culprit.
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  #12  
Old September 20th, 2015, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
Jason, has you replace an air drier on your LR3s EAS air suspension compressor? My wife's LR3 does not have any codes yet, but when the vehicle is not in use for a few days the suspension sits very low. Is there wrong with it?
That means you have a leak somewhere. Either leave a door open or disconnect the battery and let it sit overnight. If just one corner leaks down, you need a spring. If both fronts or both rears leak down, you need a cross link valve. Most of the time it is just the cross link valve leaking internally.
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:20 AM
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EAS valve blocks on the front/rear may be the source of the leak too.

One way to localize is to undo the battery overnight, pull the suspension fuse, or simply leave the door slighting open-any one of those will stop self leveling and thus you should see it droop to the side with the leak while the rest stay at their original resting position. At least that is how it was explained to me.
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:24 AM
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Accidental double post..,
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:34 AM
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Thank you all. Jimmy, do you have part number of the cross link valve? Also, it this a quick job at the stealership?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
This. If both fronts or both rears leak down, you need a cross link valve. Most of the time it is just the cross link valve leaking internally.
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
Thank you all. Jimmy, do you have part number of the cross link valve? Also, it this a quick job at the stealership?
I know this was directed at Jimmy so I'm sure he'll address...and I haven't done this job specifically, BUT I've found that most of this stuff is fairly plug & play on the LR3s so I can't imagine it'd be that hard to DIY. Diagnostics always seems to be the more difficult task rather than actual replacement of said part.
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
Thank you all. Jimmy, do you have part number of the cross link valve? Also, it this a quick job at the stealership?
Its a quick job at home. The dealership will probably charge you 2 hours labor or so. Depending on timing, I could probably do it for you one weekend. Just figure out what's leaking and we can go from there.
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Been there done that (well with the leak anyhow). The reality is, while they exacerbated the issue with a bad install - the real culprit is the faulty design by Rover having the air intake protrude past the windscreen.

It was corrected later in design on either the '07 or '08 model. Anyhow, do yourself a favor and cut a piece of tin or aluminum in a triangular shape and rightstuff it on that corner of the intake (just the offending corner, not the entire thing obviously). You will then be permanently leak free...ask me how I know . If you don't, even with a proper cowl install you'll still see it happen at some point I assure you.

I had Russell do his on his '06 as well and he actually took some pics, I'll see if I can dig them up.
Here's some pics of Russell's "quick fix"...he used duct tape in place of my aluminum triangular panel, but you get the idea:
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:53 AM
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Thank you again Jason & Jimmy,

My reply above were both front and rear were leaking. All corner drops evenly when the vehicle is not in use for a few days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
Its a quick job at home. The dealership will probably charge you 2 hours labor or so. Depending on timing, I could probably do it for you one weekend. Just figure out what's leaking and we can go from there.
------ Follow up post added September 20th, 2015 09:54 AM ------

Okay, Jimmy one weekend. Let me know. Thank you.
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Old September 20th, 2015, 09:55 AM
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Okay, Jimmy one weekend. Let me know. Thank you.
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