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  #1  
Old January 15th, 2015, 05:56 PM
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Lr3 trans service

I hesitate calling this an upgrade but has anyone converted to the metal trans pan on your LR3? If so have you experienced any negative issues with the lower fluid capacity? Are you still satisfied with the modification?
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  #2  
Old January 15th, 2015, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I hesitate calling this an upgrade but has anyone converted to the metal trans pan on your LR3? If so have you experienced any negative issues with the lower fluid capacity? Are you still satisfied with the modification?
I've seen them leaking, but that's my only experience. What's wrong with the plastic pan? I guess it could be a problem off road, but a skid plate would be a better option in my opinion.
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  #3  
Old January 15th, 2015, 06:32 PM
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It looks like there are a couple metal ones out there. I've looked into it a little. Seems like it would make it alot easier to change the fluid/filter more regularly for those that need it. I'm curious to see what people have to say as well. The biggest pain looks like the refill procedure, which doesn't look that hard if you have a lift.
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Old January 15th, 2015, 06:45 PM
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Been running a metal ford pan with drain plug for the past year. No issues to report and holds nearly a litre more fluid.

I did a write up on the disco3 forum (I thinks it was) some time ago.
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  #5  
Old January 15th, 2015, 06:47 PM
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I went to the dealer, have 238k on my lr3. they said its lifetime and they would not touch it....
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Old January 15th, 2015, 06:55 PM
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Nothing is wrong but 10yrs old and 100k miles so I want to replace the fluid and filter. Genuine appears to be a pita having to remove the exhaust and jacking the motor.

Will check the write up on the d3 forum

Thanks for everyone's feedback
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Old January 15th, 2015, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpc1818 View Post
I went to the dealer, have 238k on my lr3. they said its lifetime and they would not touch it....
That's a lot of miles! Which dealer? I wouldn't hesitate to change it personally, but I guess I can understand why some people would be afraid to. I don't really buy into the whole not changing transmission fluid when it has high miles. If the clutch material in the fluid is holding your transmission together, its probably on its last leg anyway.

------ Follow up post added January 15th, 2015 07:52 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
Nothing is wrong but 10yrs old and 100k miles so I want to replace the fluid and filter. Genuine appears to be a pita having to remove the exhaust and jacking the motor.

Will check the write up on the d3 forum

Thanks for everyone's feedback
I haven't done one in a while, but I don't remember pulling the exhaust.
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  #8  
Old January 15th, 2015, 09:34 PM
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I changed my trans fluid and filter last summer. I was going to do the metal pan, but decided to go with the OEM ZF pan. The passenger side CAT pipe needs to be removed and the engine needs to be lifted about 2". Should be good for another 90k...
Also, I changed the electrical plug/sleeve while in there. The only way to change it is to drop the pan.

Here are some useful sites:


http://www.zf.com/na/content/media/u...28_Catalog.pdf

http://www.zftranspart.com/images/custom/mecha.pdf

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic9...ansmission+pan

Cheers...
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  #9  
Old January 16th, 2015, 09:49 PM
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Found this while looking for else,

Ford A/T pan # 9L3Z-7A194-A which was $37, same as the Ford Raptor model
Ford filter 7L1Z-7A098-A $30

both online at sunrise ford

the A/T gasket FEL-PRO T0518753 (the first #5 could be a S) Amazon $30
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  #10  
Old January 16th, 2015, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
That's a lot of miles! Which dealer? I wouldn't hesitate to change it personally, but I guess I can understand why some people would be afraid to. I don't really buy into the whole not changing transmission fluid when it has high miles. If the clutch material in the fluid is holding your transmission together, its probably on its last leg anyway.

------ Follow up post added January 15th, 2015 07:52 PM ------



I haven't done one in a while, but I don't remember pulling the exhaust.
Huntington Land Rover. I spoke with several of the service people and two mechanics.
I know the miles are high thats why i want to change it. Once it warms up, i will likely tackle it myself.
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  #11  
Old January 17th, 2015, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
Found this while looking for else, Ford A/T pan # 9L3Z-7A194-A which was $37, same as the Ford Raptor model Ford filter 7L1Z-7A098-A $30 both online at sunrise ford the A/T gasket FEL-PRO T0518753 (the first #5 could be a S) Amazon $30
Awesome. Thanks!
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  #12  
Old January 17th, 2015, 10:52 AM
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What interval do you recommend? My LR4 has about 55k now and think I should do it (when it gets warmer) as well. Have not researched how hard it is yet (if any different from an LR3)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
That's a lot of miles! Which dealer? I wouldn't hesitate to change it personally, but I guess I can understand why some people would be afraid to. I don't really buy into the whole not changing transmission fluid when it has high miles. If the clutch material in the fluid is holding your transmission together, its probably on its last leg anyway.
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  #13  
Old May 17th, 2015, 08:54 PM
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I finally got around to this over the weekend and this is what I learned.

Everyone has their own reason for doing the conversion and for me it was to make future services easier and the benefit of only having to replace a $30 filter is a bonus. I bought the Ford pan, filter, felpro gasket, and B&M drain for ~$90. The electrical connector sleeve was $20 from the dealer. 7liters of fluid was $145 and hardware was $10-15 from the LHS.

My pan was held on with T-27 torx head screws. They have fairly large head for that small size bit so they were difficult to get off. Years of aluminum to steel contact created a good bit of corrosion. Before you start make sure you use a good straight bit and go after the difficult to reach screws first. You may want to tap on them first to help loosen them up. The one nice thing about these crappy screws are the heads are fully exposed so you can get vise grips on them if necessary. I need to use vise grips to remove ~1/2 of my pan screws.

Once you get all the screws off dip the corner of the pan into your drain pan and another couple of cups of fluid should spill out. You'll want to do that before cutting the pick up tube.

I used a small hacksaw between the pan and trans to cut the pick up tub. If you shine a light in the gap between the pan and the trans you should see if about 1/4 of the way back (motor side). It was a little awkward but eventually you'll saw thorough it.

Given the difficulty in removing the screws on the front and back of the trans pan I decided to replace all the screw with regular hex head M6x100x16mm bolts. I'll use antiseize on the threads and external tooth washers to hold them in place.

Reverse to reassemble, correct? Well, unfortunately not so. The Ford pan I bought has a reservoir in the bottom and that little bump is preventing me from sliding the pan in place. If I drop the exhaust pipe the pan should slip in but i'm doing this for easier future maintenance so I need to order a new pan that is flat bottomed. I think I've found one and I will post the part numbers once it is confirmed.

Here are some pics. Good luck to anyone that decides to do this mod.
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  #14  
Old May 18th, 2015, 12:04 PM
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What oil did you go with?
Also for the filling part, did you worry about temperature?
How about flushing the transmission? Is that something you did?

For my father's LR3, I ordered a flat bottom pan kit from the UK (last year or maybe two years ago). Went with OEM oil and no flush (seemed iffy to do for the first time... Maybe if you have spare transmission cooler lines you can start from?).

As an FYI, the gearbox manufacturer came back on the "lifetime" for the transmission oil. I can't remember what interval they now use, but my LR3 has close to 90K and I plan on doing it around 100K.
My father reported better MPG after the oil change (he does a lot of towing with his truck).
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  #15  
Old May 18th, 2015, 12:31 PM
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Good info, Paul. Thanks for posting your experience.


On occasion, my LR3 has an abrupt kickdown during slow to medium acceleration transitioning out of a rolling stop following a medium to strong brake. Feels if it hesitates for a 1/4 second thinking do I remain in 2rd or 3rd during this acceleration, or kick down to 1st gear? It would be smooth if a softer acceleration (remain in 2rd or even possibly 3rd) or smooth if a harder acceleration as it would instantly kickdown to 1st. It is difficult to reproduce, but the end result is not smooth when kicking down to 1st. 62k on the ODO.
Is this normal?
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Old May 18th, 2015, 05:45 PM
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Russ, I don't have your shifting issues. I'm doing this as preventative maintenance. With 105k miles on the clock I figured $250 was money well spent to get me another 100k miles.

Loic, i'm going with the proper ZF fluid. I wasn't adventurous to try the Ford fluid.

New pan should be here this week. I'll post pics and part #s if it all works out.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post

My pan was held on with T-27 torx head screws. They have fairly large head for that small size bit so they were difficult to get off. Years of aluminum to steel contact created a good bit of corrosion. Before you start make sure you use a good straight bit and go after the difficult to reach screws first. You may want to tap on them first to help loosen them up. The one nice thing about these crappy screws are the heads are fully exposed so you can get vise grips on them if necessary. I need to use vise grips to remove ~1/2 of my pan screws.
The pan is held on with T40 torx bolts, not T27. You probably wouldn't have had any issues if you had been using the correct size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post

On occasion, my LR3 has an abrupt kickdown during slow to medium acceleration transitioning out of a rolling stop following a medium to strong brake. Feels if it hesitates for a 1/4 second thinking do I remain in 2rd or 3rd during this acceleration, or kick down to 1st gear? It would be smooth if a softer acceleration (remain in 2rd or even possibly 3rd) or smooth if a harder acceleration as it would instantly kickdown to 1st. It is difficult to reproduce, but the end result is not smooth when kicking down to 1st. 62k on the ODO.
Is this normal?
I think there is a software update for that.
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  #18  
Old May 18th, 2015, 07:57 PM
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[QUOTE=Jymmiejamz;638487]The pan is held on with T40 torx bolts, not T27. You probably wouldn't have had any issues if you had been using the correct size.


The T40 are the new bolts. I never messed with the pan before and these are the bolts that have been on there since new. The early models came with T27, it wasn't until later they started using T40s.
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Old May 18th, 2015, 08:21 PM
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I have the same symptoms on my '06 LR3.

Also intermittent transmission fault limited gears available, engine system fault...

"On occasion, my LR3 has an abrupt kickdown during slow to medium acceleration transitioning out of a rolling stop following a medium to strong brake. Feels if it hesitates for a 1/4 second thinking do I remain in 2rd or 3rd during this acceleration, or kick down to 1st gear? It would be smooth if a softer acceleration (remain in 2rd or even possibly 3rd) or smooth if a harder acceleration as it would instantly kickdown to 1st. It is difficult to reproduce, but the end result is not smooth when kicking down to 1st. 62k on the ODO.
Is this normal?[/QUOTE]
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Old May 18th, 2015, 09:09 PM
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[QUOTE=lordhelemt;638540]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
The pan is held on with T40 torx bolts, not T27. You probably wouldn't have had any issues if you had been using the correct size.


The T40 are the new bolts. I never messed with the pan before and these are the bolts that have been on there since new. The early models came with T27, it wasn't until later they started using T40s.
Really? I've only ever seen a T40 on the ZF trans in the RRS, LR3, and Range Rover. I've probably had about 50 or so of those pans off.
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