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  #41  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 11:44 AM
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The kit from Alto was ~$82 all in. You'd just need to buy a separate drain valve if you want one ~$10.

Not sure what the replacement filter/gasket cost but I'd assume 1/2 price of the kit
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  #42  
Old June 8th, 2015, 11:51 PM
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Drain bolt???

Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I ordered the ALTO kit. It comes with the pan, filter, gasket, bolts for about $82 shipped. Part #183650. Easily fits without removing anything other than the old pan. It did NOT come with a drain plug so you'll want to make sure you order one of those before the install.

The image on the right is the new pan and it comes with magnets.
I have the same pan but haven't installed it yet. My pan didn't come with a drain bolt or drain hole either. Did you drill a hole and just installed a drain bolt. If yes, where did you purchase the drain bolt and how easy was it to drill, install drain bolt/location, etc. thanks.
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  #43  
Old June 9th, 2015, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx468 View Post
I have the same pan but haven't installed it yet. My pan didn't come with a drain bolt or drain hole either. Did you drill a hole and just installed a drain bolt. If yes, where did you purchase the drain bolt and how easy was it to drill, install drain bolt/location, etc. thanks.
I bought a B&M drain plug on ebay, it was ~$10. It was easy to install. You just need to drill a 1/2" hole and I match the location on the factory pan.
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  #44  
Old June 9th, 2015, 08:47 AM
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Couldn't you just drill a hole tack weld a nut on the inside of pan, screw in a bolt using copper washer? The bolt would be flush against pan. The b&m bolt looks like it's sticking out.
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  #45  
Old June 9th, 2015, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mx468 View Post
Couldn't you just drill a hole tack weld a nut on the inside of pan, screw in a bolt using copper washer? The bolt would be flush against pan. The b&m bolt looks like it's sticking out.

I don't see why that wouldn't work.
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  #46  
Old June 9th, 2015, 07:16 PM
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The pan is just plain steel?
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  #47  
Old January 14th, 2017, 08:40 PM
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Do you have to remove the selector cable to get the bolt for the heat shield bracket out?
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  #48  
Old January 15th, 2017, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
Do you have to remove the selector cable to get the bolt for the heat shield bracket out?
No you should be able to get it out with the cable in place but it was kind of a pain.
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  #49  
Old January 15th, 2017, 09:02 PM
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On my LR3 I had to unlock the selector cable from the mount to get it to give enough room to get the last bolt from the heat shield bracket free. Just needed like a 1/4 inch and I got the bolt out.
I did have to cut off the bolt on the front driveshaft side. I used a ratcheting wrench and it backed out all the way into the driveshaft. So a little sawzall there and I was fine. But still note worthy. I'm not sure if you can get it out all the way with an open ended wrench. It's tight clearance around the cross members for the T40 3/8 drivers. You really need a 1\4 driver to get them all out.
Sleeve connector looks hard to get to but eventually manageable. I didn't get that far yet but next weekend.
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  #50  
Old January 15th, 2017, 10:09 PM
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How do you fill the transmission with fluid and how did you know you got the correct amount in there?
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  #51  
Old January 15th, 2017, 10:18 PM
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There is a port on the side of the transmission to fill it. But basically after you drop the pan, reinstall the new one, you add 4ish quarts, start the engine. When the trans reaches 40 deg C you should top up the fluid and have a slight drip out of the fill hole. After the engine is running it should take 3ish quarts. Temperature is important for this, the fluid expansion with the right temp is important to tell when the fluid level in the trans is right.
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  #52  
Old October 2nd, 2017, 02:08 PM
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A couple of notes as I just finished this up on my LR3 using the updated conversion kit to a metal pan:

- I replaced the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve (#TZV500010) at the same time, highly recommended as the orings dry out/shrink. Make sure you properly seat this all the way in before you push the slide lock back up in place...apparently the unit *will* lock in place about ~2mm before the actual proper lock position, so take a before-and-after photo to compare (thanks to Jymmiejamz for the heads up on this, so was not an issue for me)
- the replacement pan comes with smaller head M6 bolts, and the pan is metal so doesnt have the "sleeve" in each hole....as such, make SURE to use a lock washer (the tooth kind is recommended) and I'd probably suggest locktite as well. I didn't initially and after a day went back to inspect and found the bolts had actually loosened up!
- original torque spec on the factory bolts is ~12nm....not sure what/how that translates to the ford pan bolts, but I went slightly higher (~15nm) when I redid then with tooth washers & loctite. Will check & inspect.
- fill capacity is looking like somewhere in the 5-6 quarts following the cold fill followed by get trans up to ~110-120*F and finish filling while running.
- I removed the tcase bolt that fastens to the chassis and jacked up the entire assembly to get to the rear pan bolts, was much easier and gave more room to work.
- I also cheated and used our shop lift....was intially going to do it on the ground on my back, but glad I did not as I'm getting too old for that BS .

If I think of anything else pertinent I'll post up.
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  #53  
Old October 2nd, 2017, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
A couple of notes as I just finished this up on my LR3 using the updated conversion kit to a metal pan:

- I replaced the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve (#TZV500010) at the same time, highly recommended as the orings dry out/shrink. Make sure you properly seat this all the way in before you push the slide lock back up in place...apparently the unit *will* lock in place about ~2mm before the actual proper lock position, so take a before-and-after photo to compare (thanks to Jymmiejamz for the heads up on this, so was not an issue for me)
- the replacement pan comes with smaller head M6 bolts, and the pan is metal so doesnt have the "sleeve" in each hole....as such, make SURE to use a lock washer (the tooth kind is recommended) and I'd probably suggest locktite as well. I didn't initially and after a day went back to inspect and found the bolts had actually loosened up!
- original torque spec on the factory bolts is ~12nm....not sure what/how that translates to the ford pan bolts, but I went slightly higher (~15nm) when I redid then with tooth washers & loctite. Will check & inspect.
- fill capacity is looking like somewhere in the 5-6 quarts following the cold fill followed by get trans up to ~110-120*F and finish filling while running.
- I removed the tcase bolt that fastens to the chassis and jacked up the entire assembly to get to the rear pan bolts, was much easier and gave more room to work.
- I also cheated and used our shop lift....was intially going to do it on the ground on my back, but glad I did not as I'm getting too old for that BS .

If I think of anything else pertinent I'll post up.
Excellent Notes! How much time would you estimate and where do you recommend sourcing the parts & fluids?
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  #54  
Old October 2nd, 2017, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Excellent Notes! How much time would you estimate and where do you recommend sourcing the parts & fluids?
I was doing it on the lift and BS'ing with the guys/etc....so really didn't track the time per se. But was out of there by 3pm and got there around 10am or so. I'd say doing it on my back, no monkey business, probably about the same.

For the fluid, I went with the genuine ZF Lifeguard 6 fluid...but found out afterwards that the BG fluid *is* ZF compatible (and one of the recommended fluids for the ZF). Can't remember the BG # off the top of my head, but it's the one for the 6HP ZF (edit: pretty sure its the BG PN315).

For the connector sleeve, probably could be had at the dealership or similar - just make sure you go genuine.

Regarding the upgraded pan kits (metal pan, magnets, gasket, and new hardware) I know a guy who knows a guy that stocks the pan kits . Cough.
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  #55  
Old October 2nd, 2017, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Regarding the upgraded pan kits (metal pan, magnets, gasket, and new hardware) I know a guy who knows a guy that stocks the pan kits . Cough.
Sold. Put me down for the kit. Do I go to the dude's dude's website or is this 4th hand post suffice?
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  #56  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
A couple of notes as I just finished this up on my LR3 using the updated conversion kit to a metal pan
Picture of the pan please? Would like to see what drain plug you ended up using.
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  #57  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 02:14 PM
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Transmission Pan Drain Plug Kit - B&M Transmissions, Shifters, Torque Converters, Diff Covers, Coolers
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  #58  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand View Post
Picture of the pan please? Would like to see what drain plug you ended up using.
Opted *not* to go with drain plug....wasn't sure it'd be a factor in application, *but* from chatting with Galpin there was always the possibility that adding a foreign object in the pan could affect the fluid dynamics of the flow in the pan.

That, and well introducing anything on a Rover that's another potential leak point - also a concern. So went sans drain plug, but can either just drop the pan next time or hook it up to the BG machine to flush it anyhow without removing the pan.
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  #59  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 02:48 PM
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Fluid dynamics accounted for in a built by the lowest bidder transmission? Doubt it
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  #60  
Old October 3rd, 2017, 02:51 PM
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Fluid dynamics accounted for in a built by the lowest bidder transmission? Doubt it
Galpin tends to over-analyze things, but then again he is building an electric Rover literally from scratch. Put enough of a "?" in my mind, but honestly was really more worried about introducing a leak point in the pan so that was the real nail in the coffin for me.
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