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  #21  
Old May 18th, 2015, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
I have the same symptoms on my '06 LR3.

Also intermittent transmission fault limited gears available, engine system fault...

"On occasion, my LR3 has an abrupt kickdown during slow to medium acceleration transitioning out of a rolling stop following a medium to strong brake. Feels if it hesitates for a 1/4 second thinking do I remain in 2rd or 3rd during this acceleration, or kick down to 1st gear? It would be smooth if a softer acceleration (remain in 2rd or even possibly 3rd) or smooth if a harder acceleration as it would instantly kickdown to 1st. It is difficult to reproduce, but the end result is not smooth when kicking down to 1st. 62k on the ODO.
Is this normal?
[/QUOTE]

I would get the tranny fluid tested for ethylene glycol, google the LR3 forum for it.
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  #22  
Old May 20th, 2015, 12:52 PM
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I would get the tranny fluid tested for ethylene glycol, google the LR3 forum for it.[/QUOTE]
Not successful finding cross contamination of tranny fluid and coolant, but did find a few threads that discuss checking the pivot for the shifter linkage. This 'could' be my issue (again, it occurs perhaps once per month and only for a 1/4 second). I'll start here. Looks easy an only $20 in parts.

2006 LR3 HSE - Transmission Issues w/ 65000miles - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
and
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic31656.html

It sounds more like linkage issues than transmission issues specifically. It sounds like depending on your mileage you might also consider changing up your differential and transfer case fluids, and see how they look as well.

These issues are getting more common.

Scenario 1.

problems when
[COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]braking[/COLOR][/COLOR] or stopping at intersections, when pulling away the car would rev highly as if in neutral ,moving the gearshift away from drive and back in would drive ok.

Replace the lever ,bush and a
spring washer that goes between the lever and the bush, very easy job. I marked the position of the original lever on the [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]rod[/COLOR][/COLOR] with nail varnish and also measured it from end of rod as backup. gearshift now glides into positions freely without dropping out of gear, and you can feel the difference.part numbers for some of the parts are

Scenario 2.
A few days ago I noticed that I couldn't get
[COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]command[/COLOR][/COLOR] shift to work but it seemed ok when I restarted the car. Today SWMBO got stuck in a car park only able to select PRN no D no command shift. She rang me for advice and didn't seem too pleased when I suggested she reverse the six miles home with our six month old screaming in the back! While I was looking for LR assist's number she clarted on for a while and managed to get into Drive. I tried it out when she got home and sure enough you can only get into Drive if you whack the selector fully back and even then a slight nudge will knock it out of gear. Is this something I can easily fix (like a loose easily accessible switch) or would LR assist come out as I don't really want to drive it to [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]the [COLOR=blue !important]dealers[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] in case it jumps out of gear on the A1 and I can't get it back in gear.

You may be able to at least loosen things up, while you wait for the parts, with some
WD40, etc. Probably make taking it apart [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]easier[/COLOR][/COLOR] as well.

LR012704 LEVER 5.11
TZT500040 BUSH 6.36
WYH000040 NUT 0.75
Bolt (haven't found p/n yet
Spring Washer (haven't found p/n yet

give bush fitting a good coating in never seize compound.

Some HOW to
[COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]pictures[/COLOR][/COLOR]..
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Autobox Gear Lever pivot - How To

when you call and get the other part numbers, etc. post them up.
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  #23  
Old May 20th, 2015, 01:08 PM
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Russell:

I had the symptoms as described above (where it seemingly went into neutral, then would shift into gear). I skipped buying the parts, and just soaked the shift linkage (underneath) in PB Blaster, worked the linkage, and then doused it with some white lithium spray grease - the problem went away completely. Essentially, this is the "lubricate shift linkage" on the maintenance schedule from Rover which most (including myself) may forget to do.
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  #24  
Old May 20th, 2015, 08:21 PM
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The frozen linkage is a very common problem. I bought all of the parts from the dealership for $29 (my cost) and fixed Dan's RRS on the ground in my parking garage. Its super easy and worth just buying they parts to fix it right and you will probably never have to worry about it again.
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  #25  
Old May 20th, 2015, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
The frozen linkage is a very common problem. I bought all of the parts from the dealership for $29 (my cost) and fixed Dan's RRS on the ground in my parking garage. Its super easy and worth just buying they parts to fix it right and you will probably never have to worry about it again.
Or...stay up with the lubrication, and it should never have to fixed in the first place . It's just a bushing really in there that gets seized up, and it's not like it's a high velocity part we're talking about. My experience is just the PB & lithium grease and mine shifts like a dream now.
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  #26  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:04 PM
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Is there a cover underneath for the shift linkage?

QUOTE=nathanwind;639287]Russell:

I had the symptoms as described above (where it seemingly went into neutral, then would shift into gear). I skipped buying the parts, and just soaked the shift linkage (underneath) in PB Blaster, worked the linkage, and then doused it with some white lithium spray grease - the problem went away completely. Essentially, this is the "lubricate shift linkage" on the maintenance schedule from Rover which most (including myself) may forget to do.[/QUOTE]
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  #27  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
Is there a cover underneath for the shift linkage?
If I recall, there is a plastic cover that comes right off. Here's a good write up with pics so you can see the linkage:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Autobox Gear Lever pivot - How To
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  #28  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:16 PM
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Thanks. I guess we can just soak/spray with PB blaster and put grease on the shift linkage without removing the parts right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
If I recall, there is a plastic cover that comes right off. Here's a good write up with pics so you can see the linkage:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Autobox Gear Lever pivot - How To
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  #29  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:22 PM
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If I do remember correctly, the factory suggested the trns did use lifetime oil. On the same paragraph it suggested service interval of every 100,000 miles.
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  #30  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
Thanks. I guess we can just soak/spray with PB blaster and put grease on the shift linkage without removing the parts right?
Yep...I just crawled under there, sprayed with PB, moved the shifter (in the car) back and forth a dozen or so times, let it sit for a few hours....then sprayed liberally with white lithium grease. No disassembly/etc. It seems simple if you need to take it apart and do the "kit", but I figured I'd take the cheap and easy way to avoid screwing it up first.
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  #31  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:30 PM
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Is the LR4 susceptible to any of these issues?
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  #32  
Old May 20th, 2015, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Is the LR4 susceptible to any of these issues?
If the shift linkage is the same, then I'd say yes...maybe look at the Rover "maintenance schedule" for the LR4 and if it states "lubricate shift linkage" then that would make me think they do. But Jimmy would know better.

Again, it was annoying when it happened (and I had to troubleshoot) - but was one of the easiest fixes I've ever had in the LR3.
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  #33  
Old May 21st, 2015, 11:32 PM
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I ordered the ALTO kit. It comes with the pan, filter, gasket, bolts for about $82 shipped. Part #183650. Easily fits without removing anything other than the old pan. It did NOT come with a drain plug so you'll want to make sure you order one of those before the install.

The image on the right is the new pan and it comes with magnets.
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  #34  
Old May 22nd, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Paul, for the unenlightened, what exactly is wrong with the stock pan setup?
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  #35  
Old May 22nd, 2015, 09:56 PM
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Paul, for the unenlightened, what exactly is wrong with the stock pan setup?
I think the long & short of it...the stock pan is plastic, the replacement is metal. And if I recall, Paul was like $82 for the entire "upgraded" setup - and I'm sure the genuine Rover pan is like $900 or some shite.
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  #36  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Paul, for the unenlightened, what exactly is wrong with the stock pan setup?

It boils down to the amount of labor involved to use the factory pan. On genuine one the filter is integrated into the pan and it cannot be removed/installed without considerably more labor (removing the exhaust, jacking up the engine, possible removing the trans xmember).

There is also the cost benefit of just being able to replace the filter on future changes
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  #37  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I ordered the ALTO kit. It comes with the pan, filter, gasket, bolts for about $82 shipped. Part #183650. Easily fits without removing anything other than the old pan. It did NOT come with a drain plug so you'll want to make sure you order one of those before the install.

The image on the right is the new pan and it comes with magnets.
May I ask where you ordered the alto kit from?
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  #38  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
It boils down to the amount of labor involved to use the factory pan. On genuine one the filter is integrated into the pan and it cannot be removed/installed without considerably more labor (removing the exhaust, jacking up the engine, possible removing the trans xmember). There is also the cost benefit of just being able to replace the filter on future changes
Is all of that required if changing to another pan? Meaning can a few surgical cuts with aviation snips on the factory pan prevent all of the additional fuss?
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  #39  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 09:48 AM
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May I ask where you ordered the alto kit from?
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Randy Sowers
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One Alto Way
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DIRECT 251-517-4000 Fax 251-368-7774
Email: randy.sowers@altoUSA.com
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------ Follow up post added May 23rd, 2015 09:49 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Is all of that requires if changing pan to another pan? Meaning can a few surgical cuts with aviation snips on the factory pan prevent all of the additional fuss?
All you'll need to do is cut the pickup tube on the old pan. It took a little time since I could only do short strokes with the hacksaw but it wasn't terrible
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  #40  
Old May 23rd, 2015, 11:01 AM
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- All you'll need to do is cut the pickup tube on the old pan. It took a little time since I could only do short strokes with the hacksaw but it wasn't terrible
That sounds easy and much cheaper. What does the pickup cost? Sorry if this was mentioned in your parts list early.
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