LR3 thermostat housing replacement - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 09:46 PM
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Had a small leak in the plastic thermostat housing on the LR3 and at the advice of a Rover tech, I opted to change out the entire assembly and the plastic bleeder T.

In the process, I tweaked an O ring and wound up doing it a second time, so I took pictures and figured I would post a step by step.

Here is goes, hope this helps

Remove the 4 bolts from the engine cover. 6mm and they are like 1/2 turn.

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Remove the front under body metal plate to access the oil filter. I think it's 2 -13mm for the larger bolts under the engine and 2- 10mm for the smaller ones into the bumper.

This will expose the oil filter and the 2 coolant lines that fit to the filter assembly. Slide the hose clamp back on the lower line and remove the line from the housing to drain the coolant from the system. I like to use a small 90deg pick to loosen thne hose from the fitting.

Be sure to put something under the truck to catch the coolant. I used a clean plastic tub so I could filter and re use the coolant.
Keep the catch basin under during the process as you will let air in and coolant out as you go.

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Next remove the air intake from the throttle body. I found it easiest to pull the flex hose and the small box as one unit so I had more to flex out and could use the rubber fitting on the air box fit some wiggle room. I think this is a 7mm.


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With the band clamps loose, there is a single plastic line that comes in to the hose that needs to be removed before the hose can come out. To remove, just squeeze on the ribbed sides of the fitting and pull it off.


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With the band clamps loose and the squeeze clamp line off, you can wiggle the air inlet hose off. I found it easiest to get the end off the air box first, then twist and tug to get the end of the throttle body.


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Next, I started to pull all the coolant hoses off the thermostat assembly, the egr, and the bleeder T. I like to use channel locks and slide the clamps past the fitting and leave then on the hoses.


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I found it easiest to also remove the upper radiator hose so I could bend the whole hose out of the way.



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With most of the hoses pulled, you will need to remove the throttle body. It has 4- 8mm bolts that are all the same size. I found it easiest to pull the electrical connector before I removed the bolts, just squeeze the flat spot and pull. Keep an eye for the thin metal gasket that you want to make sure comes with it.


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I left the small coolant line attached to the throttle body and folded it all out if the way.


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Next, I pulled the clip that holds the temp sensor and removed the temp sensor just to get it out of the way. The new assembly comes with a new temp sensor, but it have me a little more space and makes it easier to see one of the housing front bolts, so I pulled it out.



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Next, you will need to separate the small exhaust line from the egr valve. There are 2- 10mm bolts the come thru the exhaust line flange into the valve. I used a 10mm gear type box wrench and it worked great. Keep track of the bolts or you will be fishing with a magnet. Also keep track of the metal gasket that is between the flange and valve.



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Next you will need to remove the 4- 8mm bolts that hold the rest of the intake duct to the main black plenum on the top of the motor. This is the hardest set of bolts to get to. You can cheat by pulling the front half of the thermostat assembly, but I learned the hard way that you can't re assemble it the same way without tweaking the O ring, so I suggest you pull the bolts with the assembly in place so you can see how you will need to get the bolts back in.
I used a combination of different length 3/8" socket extensions and the 6" wobble style was the bollucks. It takes a bit of creativity, but you can get in and get to all 4. The passenger side are much easier than the driver side.


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The bottom right (facing the motor) bolt is the hardest to get to. It is tucked behind the small exhaust feed to the egr and hard to even see. To get some extra working room, I loosened the bolt that holds the metal coolant line that runs across the front of the engine. You only need a few turns to let the pipe move and get the line out of the way to fit the socket and extension thru the space to get to the bolt.


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After you get the 4 bolts out, celebrate with a cold beverage as this was a pain in the ass. If you drop and parts in the process, you may want to get one of these magnets with a cool led flashlight tip from Lowe's. I was thankful for an aluminum block.


It looks like the ap won't let me upload more pics from my phone. I will take a break and come back to finish up.
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  #2  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 10:36 PM
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Iamkraig
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Let's give this another shot and see if I can get thru the rest.

There are 2 squeeze type connectors on the top on the duct. Just squeeze the flat spots and pull.



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I pulled this section out and used carb cleaner and a scotch brite pad to clean of all the crud from the egr.



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With the air ducting out of the way you can get to all 8 bolts that hold the thermostat assembly in place. They are all T30 torx type, 4 on the top and 4 on the front (2 on either side) All 8 are the same bolt. I used a socket wrench torx on a wobble extension and it worked great. The lower one on either side of the front is a bit of a pain, especially the lower drivers side that you can't see, but you can feel it and it's a straight shot for the socket wrench.



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With all 8 bolts out, you can pull the assembly. There is no gasket sealant and just 3 rubber O rings that seal it to the block. I just have it a wiggle and tug and it came out.



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Most of these pictures are from the 2nd time I did this, so the parts are the new ones. Here are some pics of the old one and the O ring I tweaked by trying to install the new assembly as 2 parts. It makes it easier to get it out and in, but leaks, so I don't recommend it. The new part had the yellow clip holding the 2 parts together that the old one didn't. Just leave it on and install as one unit.



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Now that they old one is out, you can put the new one back in. I cleaned off ghee mating surfaces a little then set the new past back in. The new O ring gaskets that seal to the block are spaced out in the plastic mold. They compress as you fit the part properly. I started the front 4 bolts and finger snugged them. Then started the top 4 bolts and ran then in till they just touched the housing. Then snugged the front 4 followed by the top 4.

Now just follow the same process in reverse. Don't forget the metal gaskets on the egr and the throttle body.

The bolts that are a pain to get out are a pain to get back in. I put little paper towel chunks over the heads of the bolts and pushed the socket on. This worked well to hold the bolt in the socket to get them on the hole.


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When it's all together, go under the truck and put the coolant line back on the oil filter housing and re install the metal plate. Then pull the little top vent hose on the top passenger side of the radiator. Use a filter and funnel and put the coolant back in the tank till it comes out of the top of the radiator top vent you pulled the line from. If you need more coolant, it's just dexcool. Refit the little hose and fill the tank to an inch or so above the fill line. Run the truck with the heat on hot. You can bleed the tank on with the black screw and the rest of the system at the bleeder on the top of the engine (hopefully you installed a new brass one when you re assembled it).

I purchased the assembly from merriam

https://www.landrovermerriamparts.co...&siteid=215719

and the brass T from falconworks
http://www.jewellamberoil.com/sales/...roducts_id=278



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Hope this helps if you need to do this. It's really not bad.
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  #3  
Old December 30th, 2014, 04:23 PM
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Kraig, awesome write up. Now I have to get motivated and replace mine....
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  #4  
Old January 26th, 2015, 09:28 PM
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How much coolant do you lose when doing this? Say you don't reuse, how many quarts/gallons would you get?
Nice write-up, I'm doing the belts and cold squeaky idler. Figure I should do this also.
Thanks!
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  #5  
Old January 27th, 2015, 06:42 AM
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I did this last night. If you remove the fan it makes it much easier to get to the 2 lower housing bolts.

It's about a 2 hr job, not including bleeding the system.
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  #6  
Old February 16th, 2016, 11:35 PM
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Getting ready to do this likely tomorrow, but along with the water pump....after some diagnostics I'm *fairly* convinced it's actually the water pump that is leaking (though initially I suspected the coolant manifold). However, doesn't make sense to go in for the water pump and not do the manifold since it's original (since it's only a matter of time before it starts leaking).

Thanks to Jymmiejamz for the diagnostic help as well.
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  #7  
Old February 19th, 2016, 07:41 PM
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So, mine definitely ended up being the water pump that was leaking...I *suspect* that the water pump bearing was starting to wear, and was allowing coolant to slip past and up & out the "weep hole" on the WP (shown below).

But...it was one of those "replace the thermostat housing while you're in there" situations (and did the belts too). Job was a breeze thanks to Kraig's write-up, but also with Paul's recommendation to take off the fan & shroud...I literally can't imagine trying to do this without popping off the fan. That is honestly the only way to go with this repair (in my opinion).

Bleeding it was a pain in the arse, I didn't use the bleeder "T" and was initially just opening the coolant reservoir 1/4 turn after it got up to temp while trying to bleed (with the heat on). A couple attempts at that, and then I just took off the cap entirely and that allowed it to finally "burp" and I was good to go.
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  #8  
Old July 23rd, 2016, 04:04 PM
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This write up has been very helpful. Thanks for putting this together.
I'm also doing the belts and one of the cold chirp idlers.
Is it worth running to Napa and getting a water pump as well? I currently have 105k on the clock.
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  #9  
Old July 24th, 2016, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
]
Is it worth running to Napa and getting a water pump as well? I currently have 105k on the clock.
No, failures are extremely rare and the original is probably better quality than you can get a NAPA. I've seen one leak in the past 9 years.
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  #10  
Old July 24th, 2016, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jymmiejamz View Post
No, failures are extremely rare and the original is probably better quality than you can get a NAPA. I've seen one leak in the past 9 years.
Mine leaked!
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  #11  
Old July 24th, 2016, 08:16 PM
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Cool thanks Jimmy! I left it alone.
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  #12  
Old July 24th, 2016, 08:22 PM
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Mine leaked!


I didn't see it in person
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