LR3 Front Differential- Rebuild or Replace? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old June 1st, 2015, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Ross, if you have time it probably would not hurt to give the guys at Great Basin a call. Bill I have found to be a great source of knowledge and wide variety of experience. IMO it's nice to support the indie shops. I see it as an indirect investment into this crazy hobby we've found ourselves obsessed with. .


Clay, thanks for the advice, brother. I'll be sure to speak with them as well- always heard good things about GB, and since your post- there have been others that have reached out to me supporting them.
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  #22  
Old June 1st, 2015, 06:17 PM
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Update (for those of you in the same boat):

Managed to speak today with Bill at GBR. Wow- what a wealth of knowledge, and even better- a terrific guy. Bill tells me that GBR does not currently rebuild LR3 diffs (or transfer cases for that matter) because it's difficult to get his hands on cores; particularly rear locking diffs (due to the limited quantity of HD packages). He did however, recommend a South African manufacturer who has a tremendous amount of experience with diffs, and a North American location- Centurion Differentials. They're based out of San Antonio, TX (fortunately for me- just a 3hr drive from Houston!).


Bill says that they do great work, and he's never heard of anyone who has used them and had issues. They also have an 18-month warranty that comes with each diff, which speaks to their support of the product.


As far as troubleshooting is concerned: Bill says that differential noise is throttle sensitive, meaning that any noise is going to be exaggerated by applying throttle. When the throttle is let off, the noise should die down.
Transfer cases however, are not throttle sensitive so with a pending transfer case failure- the noise should be present regardless of throttle usage. Good troubleshooting advice...

Step one for me will be to re-evaluate what is currently in the front diff in terms of oil quantity and any solid particulate.
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  #23  
Old June 1st, 2015, 06:36 PM
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When an LR3 has a bad diff, you can hear it at parking lot speeds most of the time.
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  #24  
Old June 1st, 2015, 08:35 PM
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When an LR3 has a bad diff, you can hear it at parking lot speeds most of the time.

How would you describe the sound you hear?
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  #25  
Old June 1st, 2015, 08:46 PM
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How would you describe the sound you hear?
A whirring or humming would probably be the best way to describe it. Its not a bad grinding noise, as a lot of customers don't even notice it, but you can definitely hear it.
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  #26  
Old July 2nd, 2015, 11:16 PM
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7/2 Update:

Replaced the front differential yesterday with a freshly rebuilt one from Centurion Differential in San Antonio, TX. Josh Gilbert is the owner and the shop came highly recommended by GBR and others. I had a great experience ordering from Josh and the diff uneventfully arrived the next day. Immediately after replacement, I noticed two things:

1. The low speed grinding noise was still there, and completely unaffected by the diff swap.

2. The high speed (70-80mph) hwy wine was no longer there.


On July 4th, in unfortunate timing- I'm moving back to the East Coast, and am a little concerned that whatever the point of failure is- it may not last the journey. The sound appears to be getting worse. Some troubleshooting observations:

a. There are sounds coming from the front of the truck, and also from within the shifter.

b. The sound is a whirring noise, coming from what sounds to be a friction point along a turning object, repeating itself with every revolution.

c. The faster the truck travels, the more frequent the whirring is.

d. The sound now occurs whether the truck is traveling in drive or in neutral, and whether the throttle is being applied, or not.

Anyone have any ideas??
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  #27  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 12:11 AM
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Ross, have you ruled out rear diff and wheel bearings? Though it sounds like it is coming from the front I've found my trucks are professional ventriloquists. I had a noise I swore was coming from the rear which turned out to be a front wheel bearing. It tricked me so badly that I removed my rear diff and swamped in a spare before I learned the lesson to check everything.

Good luck!
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  #28  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 06:23 AM
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I would recommend you just pay a shop to diagnose it as they will be able to put it on a lift and drive it while someone listens. You could just have a bad wheel bearing. I've also seen a ton a wheel bearings fail and a couple of transfer boxes. I've only seen one catastrophic diff failure, so I wouldn't be too worried about driving it.
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  #29  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 09:38 AM
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Clay/Jimmy- thanks guys. Very sound advice and you've made me reconsider wheel bearings again, even though they've been checked already by the shop. In desperation, took the truck to LR Houston this morning and their lead tech drove the truck. "Transfer box" he said in confidence. He did say that they would want to put a stethoscope on it first, drain the fluid, etc...
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  #30  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 11:27 AM
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Ross,
Place your PDA on the center console next to the shifter, hit record, drive around, narrate and post. Inquiring minds want to hear.
Moving back to NOVA?
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  #31  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday View Post
Clay/Jimmy- thanks guys. Very sound advice and you've made me reconsider wheel bearings again, even though they've been checked already by the shop. In desperation, took the truck to LR Houston this morning and their lead tech drove the truck. "Transfer box" he said in confidence. He did say that they would want to put a stethoscope on it first, drain the fluid, etc...
Finished up a couple of hours ago. Their "master" tech did the troubleshooting and with a stethoscope, concluded that the "transfer box sounds like a cement truck" and "is caput". They didn't drain the oil as they said there was no need based on what they'd already found.

Now deciding whether to roll the dice on 1200 miles of hwy, or whether I'll just tow it. Good times...

------ Follow up post added July 3rd, 2015 10:15 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Ross, Place your PDA on the center console next to the shifter, hit record, drive around, narrate and post. Inquiring minds want to hear. Moving back to NOVA?
Did last night, and have the file but apparently can't upload it from my phone. I'll work on it. The tech said they've seen a low, but steadily increasing amount of t-case failures in these trucks.
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  #32  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 04:09 PM
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So i did the transfer box myself last year on my LR3.
I guess i am somewhat mechanical inclined to do this, not an easy job though.
Only took me two days in the driveway...
BTW, picked it up from a local dismantler for 1k..
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  #33  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 04:47 PM
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Maybe I'm getting old, but is sounds like time to call U-haul or a shipper or delay your trip.

So again, are you coming back to NOVA?
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  #34  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 06:21 PM
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The most difficult thing about doing the transfer box is getting to the bolts. IIRC they are inverted torx and you can't put a socket on them.
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  #35  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 10:50 PM
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Is there a correlation between t/c case failures and their lack of use? Perhaps it old school and not applicable anymore, but should a t/c should be placed in low a few times per year instead of being in high for all of its life (as it is probably for the vast majority of LR3s)?
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  #36  
Old July 4th, 2015, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Is there a correlation between t/c case failures and their lack of use? Perhaps it old school and not applicable anymore, but should a t/c should be placed in low a few times per year instead of being in high for all of its life (as it is probably for the vast majority of LR3s)?
The kind of failure he is experiencing is not from lack of use, but not using it can cause issues with the shift motor. Every 15k the transfer box should be put in low range and driven a few feet. It is part of the scheduled service, as is performing a static apply to the parking brake.
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  #37  
Old July 4th, 2015, 01:38 PM
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Explain this parking brake procedure please?
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  #38  
Old July 4th, 2015, 05:42 PM
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Explain this parking brake procedure please?
Key on, transmission in park, press the brake pedal three times and hold it, pull up the parking brake switch four times, then press down three times. That should put it into service mode which will allow you to apply the parking brake while drive. then you basically just go from 20 mph to a stop ten times or so. A key cycle or exceeding 30 mph will disable it.
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  #39  
Old July 4th, 2015, 06:16 PM
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Sounds a lot like LR OCD.
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  #40  
Old July 4th, 2015, 06:30 PM
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Huh, imagine that. I have no idea what this is achieving, but I just did this successfully. You have to do the steps fairly rapidly or it doesn't take. There will be a message on the screen saying it's in EPB Service Mode if done correctly. If you don't see this but try the procedure anyway like I did the first time, you will hear an awful grinding sound when you pull the parking brake switch while rolling

Thanks Jimmy. I'll add it to the checklist.
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